Another spark plug thread....poll
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: SAN JOSE CALIFORNIA
Another spark plug thread....poll
Ok, I've read all the past spark plug threads. People have strong opinions about what tool or no tool to use, remove side shirts, etc..
Here's my issue. Their is a mixed bag of people discussing things about spark plug removal that have L98 and LTx. To add to that, some have headers and some do not. So it makes it difficult to see who has the best advice/experience.
So, for those who have changed their spark plugs successfully. Please post the following on the topic of spark plug removal:
(1) Engine (L98/LTx)
(2) Headers w/ brand or Stock?
(3) Based on your direct experience....what tool worked for you!?
(Example tools: bent wrench, swivel racket, shallow plug boot, etc..)
FYI, I'm asking cause I'm going to change them in a 1996 LT4 with stock headers and I'm trying to research this.
peace....
Here's my issue. Their is a mixed bag of people discussing things about spark plug removal that have L98 and LTx. To add to that, some have headers and some do not. So it makes it difficult to see who has the best advice/experience.
So, for those who have changed their spark plugs successfully. Please post the following on the topic of spark plug removal:
(1) Engine (L98/LTx)
(2) Headers w/ brand or Stock?
(3) Based on your direct experience....what tool worked for you!?
(Example tools: bent wrench, swivel racket, shallow plug boot, etc..)
FYI, I'm asking cause I'm going to change them in a 1996 LT4 with stock headers and I'm trying to research this.
peace....
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 173
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From: Mustang Oklahoma
I did a water pump/Opti/spark plugs/wires replacement about 3 weeks ago on my '94 LT1.
To answer your questions..
1) 1994 LT1
2) Stock headers
3) Tools used:
Passenger side: 2,4,6 on the passenger side were easily done with the deep spark plug socket, a 3" extension, and a ratchet. 8 required the deep socket, a swivel joint, and extension. I have an 18" extension that got the ratchet out where I could work it much easier. It also helped to unbolt the heater hose that runs across the top of the heater box. There's a small screw into a clamp there.
Driver side: 1,3,5 were all easily accomplished with the deep socket, 3" extension, and ratchet. 7 required the deep socket, swivel joint, and extension. Again, I used the 18" extension to make this much easier. Also, on the driver side, life will be MUCH simpler if you will unbolt the ASR unit. There are two bolts that go through the fenderwell, as well as a small bracket that has to be unbolted on the bottom/backside of the unit. Then, it will lay out of the way and give you all the access you need.
To answer your questions..
1) 1994 LT1
2) Stock headers
3) Tools used:
Passenger side: 2,4,6 on the passenger side were easily done with the deep spark plug socket, a 3" extension, and a ratchet. 8 required the deep socket, a swivel joint, and extension. I have an 18" extension that got the ratchet out where I could work it much easier. It also helped to unbolt the heater hose that runs across the top of the heater box. There's a small screw into a clamp there.
Driver side: 1,3,5 were all easily accomplished with the deep socket, 3" extension, and ratchet. 7 required the deep socket, swivel joint, and extension. Again, I used the 18" extension to make this much easier. Also, on the driver side, life will be MUCH simpler if you will unbolt the ASR unit. There are two bolts that go through the fenderwell, as well as a small bracket that has to be unbolted on the bottom/backside of the unit. Then, it will lay out of the way and give you all the access you need.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: SAN JOSE CALIFORNIA
Thx Gister, nice format with good information. 
Feel free to just post for any other engines/headers so other newbies can learn in one post about spark plug removal for their setup.
Feel free to just post for any other engines/headers so other newbies can learn in one post about spark plug removal for their setup.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
1996 LT4.
Stock Exhaust manifolds.
Tools I used were just common hand tools, I did have both wheel well side covers off though as I did a cam change and some head porting at the same time. This does make it much easier to access the plugs from different angles. The drivers side was the easiest of all, like mentioned before do yourself a favor and get a looong 3/8 extension and 3/8 swivel (a good swivel), then you can just go about your business with a spark plug socket working from outside the wheel well.
Number 8 seems to be the killer for most folks, I didn't have any trouble with it, I reached down, slid the spark plug socket on it, then turned it with a 3/4 "Gear Wrench" Maybe for some strange reason there's more clearance in mine, I couldn't see how though.
Stock Exhaust manifolds.
Tools I used were just common hand tools, I did have both wheel well side covers off though as I did a cam change and some head porting at the same time. This does make it much easier to access the plugs from different angles. The drivers side was the easiest of all, like mentioned before do yourself a favor and get a looong 3/8 extension and 3/8 swivel (a good swivel), then you can just go about your business with a spark plug socket working from outside the wheel well.
Number 8 seems to be the killer for most folks, I didn't have any trouble with it, I reached down, slid the spark plug socket on it, then turned it with a 3/4 "Gear Wrench" Maybe for some strange reason there's more clearance in mine, I couldn't see how though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
That seems a little excessive, then on the other hand I've heard so many horror stories from some folks they wouldn't rule out standing on their head if it helped.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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For the plugs themselves in an LT1 engine operating in STOCK heat ranges, I'd go with the NGK TR-55 in the Double Platinum flavor.
And don't forget the anti-sieze compound on the new spark plug threads.
1. LT1
2. Stock headers.
3. Remove L/R plastic wheel wheel panels and ASR module mounting bracket on the driver's side of engine.
And don't forget the anti-sieze compound on the new spark plug threads.
1. LT1
2. Stock headers.
3. Remove L/R plastic wheel wheel panels and ASR module mounting bracket on the driver's side of engine.
Last edited by onedef92; Jan 17, 2007 at 08:36 AM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Silver Spring MD
anti sieze compound
GM says NO antisieze compound as you will get too much lubrication on the plug threads and overtorque the plugs. I torque my plugs by FEEL as it is ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to get a torque wrench in place with little clearance. Hand tight then just a little way with a socket wrench.
BIGHANK
BIGHANK
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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GM says NO antisieze compound as you will get too much lubrication on the plug threads and overtorque the plugs. I torque my plugs by FEEL as it is ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to get a torque wrench in place with little clearance. Hand tight then just a little way with a socket wrench. BIGHANK
BIGHANKAfter that experience, I personally believe anti-sieze compound is cheap peace of mind for the next go-round.,
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 207
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From: Duluth Georgia
(1) Engine? 86e L98
(2) Headers w/ brand or Stock? Stock w/ Iron Heads
(3) Based on your direct experience....what tool worked for you!? I used a combination of extensions, universal joints, and a socket wrench with a 180* elbow so you can place the handle anywhere you want it instead of 90* from the socket that it's attached too.
I have to say that the most difficult plug to change was the number two cylinder. I also want to point out that I didn't remove a single thing in order to get to any of the plugs. The only thing I really could've used was a lift so that I could get the engine up to work height. I hated having to bend over the engine to do everything because my back did start to hurt after a while.
(2) Headers w/ brand or Stock? Stock w/ Iron Heads
(3) Based on your direct experience....what tool worked for you!? I used a combination of extensions, universal joints, and a socket wrench with a 180* elbow so you can place the handle anywhere you want it instead of 90* from the socket that it's attached too.
I have to say that the most difficult plug to change was the number two cylinder. I also want to point out that I didn't remove a single thing in order to get to any of the plugs. The only thing I really could've used was a lift so that I could get the engine up to work height. I hated having to bend over the engine to do everything because my back did start to hurt after a while.
Last edited by Cadder; Jan 18, 2007 at 08:54 AM.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'10
I did my stock 90 L98 last week.
I put the car on jack stands and removed both wheels to be able to stand closer to my work area.
On the pass. side only, remove the weather strip from the top of the fender well. Then remove the access panel from the inside of the fender. Remove the dipstick. Remove the a/c brace. Remove the rubber hose that runs from beside the throttle body down to a metal pipe in front of number 2 plug.
Now you are ready to remove the plugs. I used 3/8 drive tools, and a plug socket that has a hex head on the end. At different points I used a 4 inch extension and/or a 6 inch extension. I also had to use a universal on the pass. side. A couple of times I put the plug socket on the plug with nothing attached to it and used a 3/4 open end wrench to turn it by it's hex head.
I can't think of any other tips to pass along except to know up front that it is going to take a while to do them all. Just relax and don't get in a rush. I recommend using anti seize on the plugs too.
I put the car on jack stands and removed both wheels to be able to stand closer to my work area.
On the pass. side only, remove the weather strip from the top of the fender well. Then remove the access panel from the inside of the fender. Remove the dipstick. Remove the a/c brace. Remove the rubber hose that runs from beside the throttle body down to a metal pipe in front of number 2 plug.
Now you are ready to remove the plugs. I used 3/8 drive tools, and a plug socket that has a hex head on the end. At different points I used a 4 inch extension and/or a 6 inch extension. I also had to use a universal on the pass. side. A couple of times I put the plug socket on the plug with nothing attached to it and used a 3/4 open end wrench to turn it by it's hex head.
I can't think of any other tips to pass along except to know up front that it is going to take a while to do them all. Just relax and don't get in a rush. I recommend using anti seize on the plugs too.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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I did my stock 90 L98 last week.
I put the car on jack stands and removed both wheels to be able to stand closer to my work area.
On the pass. side only, remove the weather strip from the top of the fender well. Then remove the access panel from the inside of the fender. Remove the dipstick. Remove the a/c brace. Remove the rubber hose that runs from beside the throttle body down to a metal pipe in front of number 2 plug.
Now you are ready to remove the plugs. I used 3/8 drive tools, and a plug socket that has a hex head on the end. At different points I used a 4 inch extension and/or a 6 inch extension. I also had to use a universal on the pass. side. A couple of times I put the plug socket on the plug with nothing attached to it and used a 3/4 open end wrench to turn it by it's hex head.
I can't think of any other tips to pass along except to know up front that it is going to take a while to do them all. Just relax and don't get in a rush. I recommend using anti seize on the plugs too.
I put the car on jack stands and removed both wheels to be able to stand closer to my work area.
On the pass. side only, remove the weather strip from the top of the fender well. Then remove the access panel from the inside of the fender. Remove the dipstick. Remove the a/c brace. Remove the rubber hose that runs from beside the throttle body down to a metal pipe in front of number 2 plug.
Now you are ready to remove the plugs. I used 3/8 drive tools, and a plug socket that has a hex head on the end. At different points I used a 4 inch extension and/or a 6 inch extension. I also had to use a universal on the pass. side. A couple of times I put the plug socket on the plug with nothing attached to it and used a 3/4 open end wrench to turn it by it's hex head.
I can't think of any other tips to pass along except to know up front that it is going to take a while to do them all. Just relax and don't get in a rush. I recommend using anti seize on the plugs too.
Those who have done this will agree THE NUMBER TWO PLUG IS AN ABSOLUTE ****!
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From: Maryville Tn
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St. Jude Donor '09 thru '23
NCM Sinkhole Donor
For the plugs themselves in an LT1 engine operating in STOCK heat ranges, I'd go with the NGK TR-55 in the Double Platinum flavor.
And don't forget the anti-sieze compound on the new spark plug threads.
1. LT1
2. Stock headers.
3. Remove L/R plastic wheel wheel panels and ASR module mounting bracket on the driver's side of engine.
And don't forget the anti-sieze compound on the new spark plug threads.
1. LT1
2. Stock headers.
3. Remove L/R plastic wheel wheel panels and ASR module mounting bracket on the driver's side of engine.
I couldn't find the NGK TR-55 double platinums when I changed the spark plugs in my '93, so I stuck the standard V-Power TR-55's in it. I was able to change all of my plugs without removing the wheel well panels. My swivel head socket and extensions was worth it's weight in gold for this job. A tedious job, but not a impossible one.
Team Owner
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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I couldn't find the NGK TR-55 double platinums when I changed the spark plugs in my '93, so I stuck the standard V-Power TR-55's in it. I was able to change all of my plugs without removing the wheel well panels. My swivel head socket and extensions was worth it's weight in gold for this job. A tedious job, but not a impossible one. Nothing the calming influence of a coupla' beers can't handle...
Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 503
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From: Oxford Pa
HUH? Really?
On my 84 I remove nothing but Spark plugs, passenger side is a pain but do-able without removing anything including the tires.
On my 84 I remove nothing but Spark plugs, passenger side is a pain but do-able without removing anything including the tires.
I did my stock 90 L98 last week.
I put the car on jack stands and removed both wheels to be able to stand closer to my work area.
On the pass. side only, remove the weather strip from the top of the fender well. Then remove the access panel from the inside of the fender. Remove the dipstick. Remove the a/c brace. Remove the rubber hose that runs from beside the throttle body down to a metal pipe in front of number 2 plug.
Now you are ready to remove the plugs. I used 3/8 drive tools, and a plug socket that has a hex head on the end. At different points I used a 4 inch extension and/or a 6 inch extension. I also had to use a universal on the pass. side. A couple of times I put the plug socket on the plug with nothing attached to it and used a 3/4 open end wrench to turn it by it's hex head.
I can't think of any other tips to pass along except to know up front that it is going to take a while to do them all. Just relax and don't get in a rush. I recommend using anti seize on the plugs too.
I put the car on jack stands and removed both wheels to be able to stand closer to my work area.
On the pass. side only, remove the weather strip from the top of the fender well. Then remove the access panel from the inside of the fender. Remove the dipstick. Remove the a/c brace. Remove the rubber hose that runs from beside the throttle body down to a metal pipe in front of number 2 plug.
Now you are ready to remove the plugs. I used 3/8 drive tools, and a plug socket that has a hex head on the end. At different points I used a 4 inch extension and/or a 6 inch extension. I also had to use a universal on the pass. side. A couple of times I put the plug socket on the plug with nothing attached to it and used a 3/4 open end wrench to turn it by it's hex head.
I can't think of any other tips to pass along except to know up front that it is going to take a while to do them all. Just relax and don't get in a rush. I recommend using anti seize on the plugs too.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: 63.8% of all statistics are made up on the spot.
St. Jude Donor '08-'10
I remove the tires because many years ago I broke my back and I can not lean over for more than a minute or two without my back hurting, A LOT. With the tire off I can stand right beside the engine and not lean. So of course this step can be skipped by those who can lean over for long periods of time.
Team Owner
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Your 1984 C4 did not have this extra equipment to contend with mechanically.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
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From: Metairie Louisiana
(1) Engine - LT1
(2) Headers - Exotim Muscle 1 3/4" Long Tubes
(3) Tool - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IMPAL...spagenameZWDVW
Had all 8 plugs out in less than 30 minutes my first time doing it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...highlight=tool
(2) Headers - Exotim Muscle 1 3/4" Long Tubes
(3) Tool - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IMPAL...spagenameZWDVW
Had all 8 plugs out in less than 30 minutes my first time doing it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...highlight=tool
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Jan 19, 2007 at 12:01 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
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Engine LT1 w/factory manifolds
Plugs A/C delco
Tools 3/8 drive ratchet, wobble exstensions and universal. I used a indexable head ratchet on the drivers side and a good spark plug socket. The cheap ones are junk and the plugs get stuck in them
Plugs A/C delco
Tools 3/8 drive ratchet, wobble exstensions and universal. I used a indexable head ratchet on the drivers side and a good spark plug socket. The cheap ones are junk and the plugs get stuck in them