Stripping paint
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,348
Likes: 233
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
The best, but not the easiest, way to remove paint is by sanding it down to primer.
I've seen some disasters perpetrated by people trying to chemically strip paint off fiberglass or SMP. It can get ugly.
Larry
code5coupe
I've seen some disasters perpetrated by people trying to chemically strip paint off fiberglass or SMP. It can get ugly.
Larry
code5coupe
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Bountiful Utah
Thanks Larry. Anyone have any experience with plastic bead blasting? I too and hesitant to go the chemical route. On the C3 site there are some guys who swear by using razor blades. Anyone here tried that?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: audubon pa
I would think that, by using a chemical stripper and any type of metal scraper (razon blade, putty knife, etc), you are giving yourself the possibility of gouging the surface. A few months back I purchase an '86 coupe that the PO stripped the hood that way. What a mess!!! I'm still trying to work out all the gouge marks. I don't know about bead blasting,but I would think a "safe" way would be to sand it. That way you can control what you take off plus has the added effect of smoothing the surface for the paint.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,566
Likes: 4
From: Mt Laurel NJ
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
I read an article in the NCRS newsletter about someone having a C3 bead blasted. I think it cost about $400.00. The car was stripped of the chrome, and I think the doors were removed. They did it out side, and the only problem was that the beads got behind the plastic covering the dash. The car would still need to be sanded and so on, but if your car has two or more layers of paint on it, this may be the way to go.
Randy
Randy
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,143
Likes: 488
From: Leonardtown Maryland
MidAmerica sells a water soluable chemical stripper that I have used on my C3. I think it is called 'Captain Richards' but I'm in Norway and not at home (and can't remember exactly). It works pretty good. Not related to the stripper I made a big mistake though. On my '82 the fiberglass is different on the front clip and hood than the rear. It may even be FRP, but the primer would not come off. I then hired a guy to use a baking soda blaster because I heard it was the safest power stripper. Needless to say he didn't get the primer off and the nice hard shell finish on the doors and rear clip is now rather rough. Now that might be the "normal" results of power stripping but it made me sick to my stomach. Now the car needs somewhat extensive filling, priming, more sanding etc which has sent the paint job way out of my price range. Sorry this is rather long but I would think very hard about doing any stripping or body work. Get some estimates and talk to as many people in your area before diving into it unless you have a bottomless budget. Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
MidAmerica sells a water soluable chemical stripper that I have used on my C3. I think it is called 'Captain Richards' but I'm in Norway and not at home (and can't remember exactly). It works pretty good. Not related to the stripper I made a big mistake though. On my '82 the fiberglass is different on the front clip and hood than the rear. It may even be FRP, but the primer would not come off. I then hired a guy to use a baking soda blaster because I heard it was the safest power stripper. Needless to say he didn't get the primer off and the nice hard shell finish on the doors and rear clip is now rather rough. Now that might be the "normal" results of power stripping but it made me sick to my stomach. Now the car needs somewhat extensive filling, priming, more sanding etc which has sent the paint job way out of my price range. Sorry this is rather long but I would think very hard about doing any stripping or body work. Get some estimates and talk to as many people in your area before diving into it unless you have a bottomless budget. Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,143
Likes: 488
From: Leonardtown Maryland
i think that would be Captain Lee's spray strip. i used it on my 69 coupe, without issues. just spray it on, let it sit a few moments, and use a scotch brite to start working the paint off. it may take several applications, but it will take it down to bare glass. neutralize it with h2o. i used an epoxy primer to seal the fiberglass. like i said, no issues. i would use it again.
Captain Richard's is the spray and shine stuff I use.
-Chris
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Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,691
Likes: 71
From: Phoenix Arizona
Be VERY carefull with any stripper. Don't let it soak into the fiberglass or you will have bubbling problems forever. I use it to strip to the primer and then sand with water. Never let it sit for long times and be very carefull around body work where the glass has been fractured. Media blasting works, but is usually very expensive if the guy knows what he is doing. I've seen cars destroyed by the non-english speaking $6/hr help alot of the guys hire. Most of the time a single edged razor blade works best on non factory finishes.
Last edited by zr1fred; Jan 18, 2007 at 11:52 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 59,243
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From: Driving a hybrid in Hipsterville
Good advice here guys. I can't sand mine because the paint is alligatored and flaking off. When I tried to sand it is impossible not to get into the fiberglass in some areas before the old paint is off in other areas. I think I'll try that stripper from MidAmerica.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
Danger Will Robinson,Danger. All the high end pro painters say DO NOT use stripper on a C4. SMP and chemical paint removers are not friends. A C3 can be stripped since it is fiberglass. Bead blasting is a possibility but is messy beyond belief. So difficult to get all the blasting material out of the nooks and crannys before painting. That leaves sanding. It is neither necessary or desireable to sand off all the paint and primer. Sand off all the clear coat. Sand color coat to the point that you have smooth surface om material well bonded to the SMP.
We have several pro painters around. Maybe they will share some of their trade secrets with us.
We have several pro painters around. Maybe they will share some of their trade secrets with us.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,691
Likes: 71
From: Phoenix Arizona
Try the razor blade, I've done ALOT of cars. Actually strippers on regular fiberglass are as bad or worse than SMC. YOU CAN NOT ALLOW STRIPPERS TO ABSORBE INTO THE FIBERGLASS. On metal you float the paint off, on fiberglass you SOFTEN the paint layers and scrape them off. Then use water to immediately nuetralize the stripper that is in the lower layers.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,691
Likes: 71
From: Phoenix Arizona
3-6 hrs depending on if you get big stripes or small chips. It works best on repaints, not very well on the original coat which is what you want It actually is faster than you might think. I sometimes use it in conjuntion with strippers and always sand well after.
