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JONECAP writes: I had the same issue on my '90. I bought the '90 airbag code clearance tool from Mid-America and it cleared the code permanently,
Here's that link to the code clearing tool from MidAmerica. It seems to basically be a new twist on the paperclip method described on this forum. The tool offered simply eliminates the need to connect/disconnect the paperclip and relies on the button to do the task. You still have to count the flashes and time the disconnects/connects to make the code clear. I'm sure it makes it a bit easier with that long pigtail, eliminating the need to lay underneath the dash. Check out the tool.................
You don't need the tool if you buy a FSM, it tells you the sequence to reset the codes yourself by grounding the correct ALDL pin. Of course you want to get the code first & the book will then tell you which sensor or other part is a fault. Buy the FSM, you won't regret it...
Ditto for me. I used this same proceedure nearly a year ago, and it has never come on again! You don't need no stinking tool.
Just clear the codes, and if it comes on again, you may have to do the sensor proceedure.
Now just drive around and wait for your Tachometer to go tappioca. Another famous 1990 Corvette surprise.
The biggest probles with rust on the passenger side frame rail is condensation from the A/C pipes dripping down onto the frame as they are directly above the right side sensor. That particular sensor is easy to get to once you remove the rear lower wheel well liner.
One problem with removing the passengers side sensor is that the two bolts used to attach it to the frame are different sizes! There is not a lot of room to get to the rear bolt so small wrenches are a must.
Also, remove the negative battery cable and wait at least 10 minutes before working on the sensors. The sensors can retain some voltage and you could cause the sensor to complete the circuit and deploy the airbag. This may not typically happen but 10 minutes isn't long in order to allow voltage to bleed off.
Once you clean up the passenger side, get a 6" square piece of rubber or vinyl and biuld a tent over the sensor. This will allow water to pass over the area and keep rust from forming. The battery side is not as important as the battery tray covers the driver's side sensor. To clean around that side, you will have to remove the battery and the tray. It's a good time to clean up any corrosion from the battery
Are the sensors themselves (internally) subject to water or corrosion? Obviously, the frame rail is (rust).
I'm trying to determine whether I should just replace the sensors while I'm there and be done with it.
The sensors are pretty well sealed. I broke one apart and there was no corrosion inside it. I don't know why the sensor itself failed, but once I replaced them with new ones I never had any trouble. The first time, when I cleaned off the old ones and the frame, I did a real good job, there was no corrosion left, but the light came back.