Starting Problems??
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 771
Likes: 0
From: Washington District of Columbia
Starting Problems??
Recently I had the passenger side DOOR HANDLE/LOCK replaced after
a break-in. For the pass week or so, I have been experiencing start-up
problems. When turning the key — nothing, turn again — still nothing.
On the third attempt, the '94 cranked right up as normal. The voltmeter
was all the way up. It began to fall to normal the longer the engine ran.
Thought everything was back to normal, as it repeatedly started again
again. Until 2 days later — same thing all over again. Went through the
same starting procedure — 3rd try — cranked right up. Each time, there
was no slow-battery draining whine. It cranked right up as it should.
This has happened off & on for the last few days. NTW tested it today,
and everything checked out perfect. It seems that after the '94 sits
over night or a couple of days, it has this same starting problem. Any-
one have any idea what the SAM HILL is going on. I don't think the LOCK
repair could be related, but what do I Know. PLEASE HELP. THANKS ALL.
a break-in. For the pass week or so, I have been experiencing start-up
problems. When turning the key — nothing, turn again — still nothing.
On the third attempt, the '94 cranked right up as normal. The voltmeter
was all the way up. It began to fall to normal the longer the engine ran.
Thought everything was back to normal, as it repeatedly started again
again. Until 2 days later — same thing all over again. Went through the
same starting procedure — 3rd try — cranked right up. Each time, there
was no slow-battery draining whine. It cranked right up as it should.
This has happened off & on for the last few days. NTW tested it today,
and everything checked out perfect. It seems that after the '94 sits
over night or a couple of days, it has this same starting problem. Any-
one have any idea what the SAM HILL is going on. I don't think the LOCK
repair could be related, but what do I Know. PLEASE HELP. THANKS ALL.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Ok, let me type this for the 400th time. ( I don't mind 
)
Vats will not allow a crank if it does not detect the correct pellet in the ignition key, and if the ign lock contacts do not make connection to the pellet, it will not allow a crank and it makes you wait 6 minutes for another try. Next time, wait 6 minutes and try your spare key as its pellet contacts are not worn like your every day key. No crank, then pull the hush panel above the drivers feet and unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if auto, at the gear lever base) and jump the switch. Measure the voltage to ground on the jumper and try a crank. If you have 12v and no crank, then you have a starter solenoid problem. If your dash lights go out in crank position, then remove your battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts, and battery terminals and replace (neg last). If you don't have 12v in crank, then find the 2 wires from behind and high on the steering column going to a 2 pin connector (these are the contacts in the ign lock). Unplug the connector and insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the 2 pins from the steering column wires. It must measure the same as the pellet and if over 13k ohms, then you need a new ign lock which has new contacts. You can temporarily bypass VATS until repair by connecting a resistor the same value as your pellet across the 2 wires coming out of the wiring harness (these go to the VATS module). You can use a 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack, but the value must be within about 4% of the design value. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition. Keep your car in good repair.
)Vats will not allow a crank if it does not detect the correct pellet in the ignition key, and if the ign lock contacts do not make connection to the pellet, it will not allow a crank and it makes you wait 6 minutes for another try. Next time, wait 6 minutes and try your spare key as its pellet contacts are not worn like your every day key. No crank, then pull the hush panel above the drivers feet and unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if auto, at the gear lever base) and jump the switch. Measure the voltage to ground on the jumper and try a crank. If you have 12v and no crank, then you have a starter solenoid problem. If your dash lights go out in crank position, then remove your battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts, and battery terminals and replace (neg last). If you don't have 12v in crank, then find the 2 wires from behind and high on the steering column going to a 2 pin connector (these are the contacts in the ign lock). Unplug the connector and insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the 2 pins from the steering column wires. It must measure the same as the pellet and if over 13k ohms, then you need a new ign lock which has new contacts. You can temporarily bypass VATS until repair by connecting a resistor the same value as your pellet across the 2 wires coming out of the wiring harness (these go to the VATS module). You can use a 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack, but the value must be within about 4% of the design value. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition. Keep your car in good repair.
Last edited by jfb; Jan 24, 2007 at 10:10 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: Elkton MD
No Start
If the three start attempts are done quickly (within a moment or so) and the car starts, the VATS isn't locking out. If VATS 'locks out', it will prohibit cranking for about 6 minutes (as indicated above).
My '95 Auto had similar symptoms (no click or noise in 'start' but started after 2 or 3 or 4 quick tries) and the gear selector switch was passing 12v. OK -- so focus went to the solenoid. That was it.
Difficult to reach but did eventually get a test lead on the solenoid 12v control wire (small one) and the 12v was getting to the solenoid.
Replaced starter as well since the mileage was >85,000.
Good luck
My '95 Auto had similar symptoms (no click or noise in 'start' but started after 2 or 3 or 4 quick tries) and the gear selector switch was passing 12v. OK -- so focus went to the solenoid. That was it.
Difficult to reach but did eventually get a test lead on the solenoid 12v control wire (small one) and the 12v was getting to the solenoid.
Replaced starter as well since the mileage was >85,000.
Good luck
