Hi All,

I read some other thread on here about how to adjust your throttle cable.

If you have no idea what this is, GO DO IT NOW!!! NOW!!!

On Saturday, I checked my throttle cable. Hood open, engine off, windows down, I mashed the gas pedal, and I didn't hear the *clink* of the throttle hitting the physical stop.

There is a white lever on the gray/black plastic cable, you flip it, and then stretch out the cable a little bit, and then switch the lever back to lock it in place.

Mashed the gas pedal again, and I could hear the *clink* of the metal-to-metal stop of the now fully-open throttle. I suspect I was at about 85-90% open throttle before adjusting it.

Saturday night, I went to the track, with pretty similar weather to my last personal best of 13.38.

I ran a 13.006 for a personal best. All of my runs that night were in 13.0-13.2 range. A simple 60-second procedure gave me almost 4 tenths of a second increase! And driving around town, I could definitely feel the extra throttle.

So, if you want one of the fastest, easiest, and cheapest mods to your car for performance gain, go check your throttle!!

John

 

I just did this "mod". Cheapest and easiest fix I have ever made.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1668701

 

According to my 95 Factory Service Manual, there is some specialized TechMaster tool (or whatever it is called) needed to properly adjust the throttle cable. If it is really as easy as you say, can you post a photo to show exactly what level needs to be flipped? Do you have to remove the black cover that says "ASR".

Thanks,

Doug

 

I can try and get a picture when I go home, but basically, step on the gas with the engine off. There is a metal "L" shaped bracket attached to the front of the engine (near where the air intake is) on the left side, with a metal cable running it from the back / bottom of the 'L' into a plastic tube. This plastic tube then goes into a larger plastic tube. Where these two tubes meet, is a black plastic connector, with a white lever on it (it's about 3/4 inch square). It will turn, and once it does, the two tubes can be pushed closer together (giving you less throttle) or can be pulled apart (giving you more throttle).

Pull them apart, and then snap the white lever back to it's original position. Start the car, and then turn it off again.

Now when you push on the gas pedal, the throttle should 'clink' against the stopper (if it wasn't before).

 

95's are different. See my thread here. Not sure what the FSM has to sa about this. Keep forgetting to check it. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1668701

 

I checked my FSM too on my 94, and it says to use all sorts of techmaster tools / scanners, etc, but in the end all I had to do was flip that little plastic lever, move the cable, and cinch it back up again.

Your Mileage May Vary...

 

I'll take another look at my cable but let me get this clear. To make the adjustment someone has to be pressing the gas pedal to the floor (with the engine off of course) while the adjustment is made?

Thanks,

Doug

 

Nope, I just unlocked the adjuster by flipping the lever, engine off, gas pedal at normal position, pulled the adjuster out a little bit, and the snapped the lever shut again.

The whole assembly will be very loose, and it'll seem like you broke something, no worries, you didn't. Start the car, rev the gas a bit, and shut it back off again. With engine off, now push the gas pedal, and see/hear if you're hitting the throttle stop.

 

I pushed in the black button with the arrows and pulled the cable all the way out(toward the windshield), then released the button. After that I got in the car and turned on the ignition. The rpms shot up to about 3500 or so. I put the pedal all the way to the floor and the ASR light flashed for a second. After I let up the idle was back to normal. Below is a picture of what the adjustment button looks like on a 95. (Thanks Lone Ranger for pic)

Pulling cable out seems to tighten. Pushing cable in loosens.


The above was from the previously posted link.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1668701

 

The one on my 95 looks just like the photo above. I checked it this morning, looked like I was at 95-97% off full throttle. I pushed in the button and pulled the cable towards the firewall skightly. I now have 100% opening, but I dont think that little bit of change will affect my 1/4 mile times. Guess we'll find at the Forum drag racing in May...

 

Anyone have an idea if it's a different procedure for a '92? My FSM doesn't have a listing for a "throttle cable", but does have a listing for an "accelerator cable"......It looks like a much different task than is being discussed here. Along with the "accelerator cable" is the cruise control cable and a transmission cable.

Help!

 

 

Yes my 92 is more involved also!

 

Looking at the photo referenced above, I agree that mine on my '92 looks exactly like it too!

I pushed the button, and pulled the cable toward the firewall slightly, same as above. My throttle butterfly now opens near 100%, where it was 90 to 95 % before. I still don't here a "clink" noise of the butterfly hitting a physical stop, but can tell by looking that it is very nearly horizontal now.

Other cables referenced in FSM do not seem to be in play here. Cruise worked fine in test drive after above adjustment.

Oddly, in the picture referenced, the cable to the RIGHT slides. On my '92 engine, the moving part of the cable is on the LEFT side. Does extend toward the firewall though.

Did not experience any weird idling RPM's. Seems just like it was before. Only way to tell a difference would be timed runs, which I don't have for comparison.

 

At the risk of beating this to death, I have another question. I have a 95 and, therefore, sort of followed the adjustment procedure written by rickreeves1 but only tried pulling the cable out a very small amount to see what would happen. Rick--you apparently pulled the cable adjustment out all the way out and the idle was initially screwed up but then corrected itself. But that would imply that setting the cable to ANY arbitrary position is just as good as any other since the idle will correct itself. Are you saying that pulling the cable all of the way out (which clearly cannot be correct) does not screw up something else like the cruise control? Also, it seems like pulling the cable out (towards the firewall) actually results in more slack in the cable so why not push the cable in?

Sorry for the seemingly dumb questions.

Doug

 

On a 95 the cable can move in and out about 1". I moved my cable around and each time the vette idled at the normal speed. I did notice that with the cable pulled out 1" the car did rev faster when stepping on the gas. Mine hit the WOT stop no matter how the cable was moved.

 

I just looked over the 95 FSM procedure for the first time. I don't know what they are talking about. The adjustment looks different then mine. I didn't even notice a lock tab on mine. I'll add it down below anyway. My previous post was what worked for me. Use at your own risk. I discovered the procedure by reading through past threads. The cruise control still works fine I've used it several times since. I remember reading something about notches in the cable. I'm guessing that maybe when I hit the gass the cable moved back in some and may have caught on one of the end notches, if there is such a thing. Again I don't know if this is right I just remember reading about it. Maybe someone else can add to it. I remember in the past trying to adjust the cable in the opposite direction and it did not help at all. Pulling the cable out did work, and thats what all the past threads suggested.

From the 1995 Red Factory Service Manual Book 1.....

"1. Unlock throttle body cable adjuster by pulling up locking tab (Figure 25).
2. Disconnect cruise control cable from cruise control servo.
3. Hold throttle body lever at stop/idle position.
4. Lock throttle body cable adjuster by pushing tab down.
5. Check that throttle body lever returns fully to the stop/idle position.
-Using a Tech 1 with a mass storage cartridge, check throttle angle percentage by depressing the accelerator pedal. When the accelerator pedal is fully depressed, throttle opening should be 100%. When the accelerator pedal is released, throttle opening should return to 0%. If proper results are not obtained, check cables for kinks or damage and repeat procedure.
6. Adjust cruise control cable. Refer to "Cruise Control Servo Linkage Adjustment" in this section."

Someone please confirm this is the correct writting from the FSM.

 

This weekend I will look at doing this again following the FSM procedure.

 

Rick--I have the 95 FSM also and I believe the description actually applies to the 1994 LT-1 (I believe there is even a date under the figure of the adjustment that says 1994). I guess the GM folks were too lazy to update the manual properly.

Doug

 

hmm... Your right, I didn't notice that. Mine says 5-26-94 in figure 25. I wonder if it was updated in the 96 FMS.