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Yes, we had a breaker bar, but just didn't seem to have enough clearance between the bottom of the shock and the floor to get enough torque. Could be we just didn't have it the car jacked up high enough. My FIL seemed real uneasy jacking the car up. We jacked it up using the jack points, but he kept saying it just didn't seem a good place to jack the car up. I asked several questions here on the forum before we started. If I had all the tools I needed, I might try the rest myself, but I just want to get it done at this point.
Lol, from how you sound, this isn't an easy job. Can you list all the tools necessary for the job? I got all the basics, but I definitely do not have a breaker bar. I know a lot of these guys chiming in have probably done it once or twice, perhaps more.
Lol, from how you sound, this isn't an easy job. Can you list all the tools necessary for the job? I got all the basics, but I definitely do not have a breaker bar. I know a lot of these guys chiming in have probably done it once or twice, perhaps more.
For the front shocks you will need a special shock socket to hold the shock piston as you loosen the top nut. We didn't have one, so a pair of vise grips did the job. We just held the shock piston with the vise grips as we untightened the nut. When it's time to tighten the nut at the top of the front shock, we used a hex socket to fit into the top of the shock piston and tightened the nut. The back shock we weren't able to get the nut loosened on the bottom of the shock. The idea of using a pipe for more leverage over the breaker bar probably would have helped. I would say it's not a complicated job, but we just kept running into one thing after another. Make sure you have either jack stands and floor jack or two floor jacks. Also suggest spraying every nut bolt etc a few days prior to replacement to help loosen things. Good luck.
Lol, from how you sound, this isn't an easy job. Can you list all the tools necessary for the job? I got all the basics, but I definitely do not have a breaker bar. I know a lot of these guys chiming in have probably done it once or twice, perhaps more.
I think everyone working on their car should own a few quality breaker bars in different sizes in their toolbox. The breaker bar is your friend.
For the front shocks you will need a special shock socket to hold the shock piston as you loosen the top nut. We didn't have one, so a pair of vise grips did the job. We just held the shock piston with the vise grips as we untightened the nut. When it's time to tighten the nut at the top of the front shock, we used a hex socket to fit into the top of the shock piston and tightened the nut. The back shock we weren't able to get the nut loosened on the bottom of the shock. The idea of using a pipe for more leverage over the breaker bar probably would have helped. I would say it's not a complicated job, but we just kept running into one thing after another. Make sure you have either jack stands and floor jack or two floor jacks. Also suggest spraying every nut bolt etc a few days prior to replacement to help loosen things. Good luck.
Good to know, guess I better find out about that shock socket before I tackle the job.
Good to know, guess I better find out about that shock socket before I tackle the job.
All you need is an impact gun for the top nuts. They will come off instantly. I sprayed them with PB Blaster beforehand but I doubt it made any difference.
Haven't gotten any response over HERE yet and I need a timely response so I figured I'd resurrect this thread to ask.
I just ordered KYBs for my 84. Can the KYBs handle the higher spring rates? Does anyone have any personal experience with them on that model year? Will they wear out quickly?
Also, are there any other bushings I should order to go with the shock installation?