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Distributor cap on an 87

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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 01:32 PM
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Default Distributor cap on an 87

I changed the egr temp sensor on my 87 today. What a pain in the tush, but with my son's help, we got it. As part of the work, we were going to take the distributor cap off to get extra clearance. Nope. There's one screw back closest to the firewall that I couldn't get to. What's it take to loosen that, an articulating socket extension?
And, are those screws captive on the cap, (I hope)? If not, that's going to be a big mess.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 01:41 PM
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Yes,screws should be captive.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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that bolt is that hard to reach? that's odd.

I wonder what the timing is set at... anyone have a timing light to help him check that? man, that would really explain some of his problems.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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My first thought also.The distributor cap is about the only easy thing to get off these cars.He should not be having this much trouble.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 01:58 PM
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agreed. I wonder what that timing is set at... hm....
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
that bolt is that hard to reach? that's odd.

I wonder what the timing is set at... anyone have a timing light to help him check that? man, that would really explain some of his problems.

There are 4 screws. If you're standing at the nose of the car, looking at the windshield, the connectors for the tach are on the right and slightly pointed back to toward the firewall. There is a screw right by that connector, there's one forward, to the left side of the plenum, another all the way on the left, getting closer to the firewall, and one last screw, where the cowel dips in, the screw is there.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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hm... I don't have an HEI engine to compare too.... but that sounds odd...

I use a 1/4" drive ratchet, usually.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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If your dizzy is not in this position, it's going to make it tough every time.

You might want to re and re the dizzy so future cap removals are easier. A flexible shaft extension would help get the buried screw.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 03:13 PM
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That is how the distributor is supposed to be and I used a 1/4" drive to remove the screws.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleD
I changed the egr temp sensor on my 87 today. What a pain in the tush, but with my son's help, we got it. As part of the work, we were going to take the distributor cap off to get extra clearance. Nope. There's one screw back closest to the firewall that I couldn't get to. What's it take to loosen that, an articulating socket extension?
And, are those screws captive on the cap, (I hope)? If not, that's going to be a big mess.
Something strange going on here.If you look at the picture thats posted the egr sensor is sitting right there next to the distributor.Taking the cap off isn't going to make the job easier.Mines an '87 and all i do is drop a 5/8 wrench on there and off it comes.You can get the rear screw with a nut driver with extension.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by staugur
Something strange going on here.If you look at the picture thats posted the egr sensor is sitting right there next to the distributor.Taking the cap off isn't going to make the job easier.Mines an '87 and all i do is drop a 5/8 wrench on there and off it comes.You can get the rear screw with a nut driver with extension.

The connector is way behind the distributor, you can access that easier with the dist. cap removed.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
that bolt is that hard to reach? that's odd.

I wonder what the timing is set at... anyone have a timing light to help him check that? man, that would really explain some of his problems.
I have one at the back thats a bitch to get at but its because my distributor is not set "square" I keep meaning to reset it but will probably leave it till something else needs doing!

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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by staugur
I have one at the back thats a bitch to get at but its because my distributor is not set "square" I keep meaning to reset it but will probably leave it till something else needs doing!
You can make the distributor "square"? I thought it's position set the timing, so that there's not much in the way of options on it's position?
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleD
There are 4 screws. If you're standing at the nose of the car, looking at the windshield, the connectors for the tach are on the right and slightly pointed back to toward the firewall. There is a screw right by that connector, there's one forward, to the left side of the plenum, another all the way on the left, getting closer to the firewall, and one last screw, where the cowel dips in, the screw is there.


DaleD: I don't know if this helps, but I'm fairly sure my '87 is exactly as it left the factory. I pulled off the cover and took this photo and the tach connections appear to be pretty much straight to the right and the (4) screws are at the corners, pretty much square to the engine. They don't look as if they'd be difficult to reach, but I've not tried.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleD
You can make the distributor "square"? I thought it's position set the timing, so that there's not much in the way of options on it's position?
Dale don't get confused!!The last time I dropped my distibutor in for some reason it just wouldn't line up with oil pump .Eventually i got it in but I'm probably two teeth out on the drive. The timing is perfect,it's just not sitting like most.As I said;;;one of these days!!

Last edited by staugur; Jul 7, 2007 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by staugur
Dale don't get confused!!The last time I dropped my distibutor in for some reason it just wouldn't line up with oil pump .Eventually i got it in but I'm probably two teeth out on the drive. The timing is perfect,it's just not sitting like most.As I said;;;one of these days!!
Just stick a long screwdriver down the hole to move the pump rod, it isn't that hard.

I just turn the distributor to remove that back bolt, I always retime anyways for a cap replacement.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by designo614
DaleD: I don't know if this helps, but I'm fairly sure my '87 is exactly as it left the factory. I pulled off the cover and took this photo and the tach connections appear to be pretty much straight to the right and the (4) screws are at the corners, pretty much square to the engine. They don't look as if they'd be difficult to reach, but I've not tried.
That's how mine looks, pretty much. For some reason it looks like you have a little more room in the back, by the cowel. Even so, I think getting a socket on that back one won't be so easy.
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To Distributor cap on an 87

Old Jul 7, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hippy
Just stick a long screwdriver down the hole to move the pump rod, it isn't that hard.

I just turn the distributor to remove that back bolt, I always retime anyways for a cap replacement.
Makes sense. I was looking for a scale or something for setting the timing, been about 100 years since I've thought of doing such a thing. Is the procedure to set the timing in the fsm?
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 01:33 AM
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you could search for the answer:
and disconnect est, start engine, time to 6 deg BTDC, lock dist, connect est your done
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DaleD
Makes sense. I was looking for a scale or something for setting the timing, been about 100 years since I've thought of doing such a thing. Is the procedure to set the timing in the fsm?
OK,that just about does it.Someone here please get over to Dale's house and help this guy out.He's over his head,and getting nowhere with this machine.If I was closer,I would surely lend a hand.
I would bet this problem dosn't even require a FSM to solve.
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