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On occassion I go to start my 87 and she won't start. Everything lights up ....nothing turns over...no clicking...lights don't dim. I wait a few minutes and she will start but not always on the second attempt. The owners manual states to try another key....but It also states you have to wait 4 minutes to let the VATS reset.So I am not sure if both keys are shot. I assume both keys are original...they are not terribly worn down. Should I cough up the $30 bucks for a new Key????
Odds are it's not the key that's the problem, it's the contacts inside the lock cylinder that go bad. The options are to determine the vats code and replace the lock and key, buy a pre-made bypass kit for 20-some bucks, or build your own bypass for a couple bucks. I purchased the 20-some buck plug and play deal for mine.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by Chewch87
On occassion I go to start my 87 and she won't start. Everything lights up ....nothing turns over...no clicking...lights don't dim. I wait a few minutes and she will start but not always on the second attempt. The owners manual states to try another key....but It also states you have to wait 4 minutes to let the VATS reset.So I am not sure if both keys are shot. I assume both keys are original...they are not terribly worn down. Should I cough up the $30 bucks for a new Key????
There is a locksmith supply in Utah that sells vats keys for $3.50 plus ship. Try a new key first. I can't remember the name. Try a search here and Google. The vats bypass cable solved my problem. In my case it wasn't the key.
On occassion I go to start my 87 and she won't start. Everything lights up ....nothing turns over...no clicking...lights don't dim. I wait a few minutes and she will start but not always on the second attempt. The owners manual states to try another key....but It also states you have to wait 4 minutes to let the VATS reset.So I am not sure if both keys are shot. I assume both keys are original...they are not terribly worn down. Should I cough up the $30 bucks for a new Key????
Here's another solution for you to consider: If your key code is 13 (7.5 K ohms resistance), I have a VATS by-pass unit purchased from Ecklers for $32 including S&H. It's brand new with all documentation and easy installation instructions. I sold the Vette before I got the unit installed. This system solves VATS problems/frustrations permanently. I'll sell it for $20 including shipping via USPS Prority Mail.
If the pellet contacts in your spare ign key look in better condition than your everyday key, I doubt a new key is going to fix your problem. Another thing to try when it won't start is to bypass the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch at base of gear lever) with a jumper and measure the voltage on the jumper when you attempt a crank. If you have 12v and no cranking, then you have a battery connection, battery, or a starter problem. If no 12v, then most likely you have intermittent connection to the pellet inside the ign lock. You can prove this by removing the kick panel above the drivers feet and look for the 2 wires from behind the steering column that goes to a 2 pin connector and unplugging the connector. Insert your key in the ign and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as the pellet and it must be within 4% of the assigned resistance value. You can temporarily bypass VATS until you can schedule the ign lock replacement by clipping a fixed resistor the same value as your pellet across the 2 pin socket from the wiring harness. You can use a 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack, but it must be within 4% of the assigned value or at least the same value as your pellet. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition. I used a fixed resistor on my 87 about 6 years ago and had the lock replaced and haven't had a problem since and I drive my 87 everyday.
Odds are it's not the key that's the problem, it's the contacts inside the lock cylinder that go bad
The VATS is controlled by the ECM. Changing locks (PITA) will only work if the key stays the same VATS number, of which there are 15 possibilities. Disabling your VATS would be a solution. Go to a locksmith, they will test your key and be able to sell you a module to disable VATS. Remove the underdash panel on the driver side. You should easily spot a two-wire grouping, I believe yellow/orange/green and white, just to the right of the steering column (as it was on my 1989 TA). You should notice that it disconnects in the middle. Disconnect it, insert the module you got from the locksmith into the wire going towards the firewall. Voila, VATS is now disabled. The module will cost you $25 - and your car will never not start because of VATS. It actually took me longer to remove the underdash panel than it did to locate the wire and insert the module.
As for the security feature of VATS being disabled, only you will know. A car thief will likely pass your car by for another, like a Camry or Honda.
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Measuring across the chip I am getting an 11.82? I take it that would be a 11800?
YES: the numbers shown on the previous post are ~ mid range for each code. The acceptable range for key code 15 is 11328-12292 Ohms
resistance or 11.8K, or 11800
YES: the numbers shown on the previous post are ~ mid range for each code. The acceptable range for key code 15 is 11328-12292 Ohms
resistance or 11.8K, or 11800
www.vatssucks.com
all the info you need right there. Repairs or bypassing. Its all there, with pics.
Great site. Thanks for posting and all your work. I've added it to my C4 "Favorites File" for the next time I might need to fight the battle of "won't start"
Or, as an alternative, you could find out why you're car REALLY isn't starting, other than crippling the VATS and posting the all to familiar "Got rid of VATS. still won't start" post. Are you getting a code, does the security light go out? 90% of the time it's either the nuetral/clutch switch, starter/solinoid, or ignition switch. The keys almost never go bad, they just get dirty......... How fitting is that, got an extra star on a VATS post!
NO...NOT CRAZY!!!...... It has been a good 15 years since I was raped at a GM service center.....I remember them charging me $25 bucks at that time. I figured they keys were the same price...hav not searched ebay for blanks. So thats good news that they are 3 bucks.