Hondo48 & LoneStarSoldier, here is what I did,,,,,,
I ordered this pulley from NAPA, it is the tensioner pulley off a C5. The number shows well in the pic so you can get it at NAPA or have another source cross-reference the number for you.


Then you need someone to make a small spacer on a lathe for you.


Here is a pic of the pulley with the spacer partially slipped in place.


Then you go to a hardware store and get a 3 ft.piece of 1"X1/2" steel as shown here.


Cut off about 10' and drill a STRAIGHT 3/8 hole slightly offset from center in one end, this will be where the alternator bolts to. Bolt this piece to the alt and just snug it so it can be moved. Take the remaining steel and drill two 3/8" holes exactly 2" center to center at one end. Put 5" bolts through these holes and mount the piece loosely to the head where the original bracket was. Mark the two pieces of steel where they intersect and cut them on the marks. They should look like these two pics.



Next you will need some steel tubing, I also got this at the hardware store.


Put the steel pieces you have cut back on the engine and hold the ends together with a clamp.


Sorry about the darkness of the pics, cheap camera. Once the pieces are clamped together then measure the distance between the steel and the head mounting points. Cut these two lengths off the tubing, then mock it all up on the engine. Once it is what you want then tack weld the steel ends and the tubing together.


Now you can drill another STRAIGHT 3/8 hole where you want to mount the pulley, if I had it to do over I would have chosen a lower mounting point than I did. I mounted my pulley right at the spot where the two pieces were welded together.


All that is left is to get a shorter belt which would be necessary even with the expensive kit I am told. I powdercoated mine but paint would do just as good. It took me 3 trips to NAPA to get the right belt but it was no big deal. Feel free to email me for additional help if needed.
Pulley..............$17.
steel...............$10.
tubing.............$9.
I used stainless bolts all around but I forget what they cost me but as you can see, you can do this for under $50.

 

I did that also before I built my own kit but the pump made a lot of noise after I gutted it, are you experiencing this also?

 

Air Pump lights off the O2 faster and switches to the CAT to cook whatever the CAT can't handle. Newer, more efficient CATS don't need it, but still use an electric pump to help with the O2. If you think running in open loop is efficient (I have fixed some rides where the owner simply snipped the O2 wire - so I guess that train of thought exists), then you must not have any problem with the price of gas.

 

Midnight 85 Haven't heard any extra noise. Yes, I saved all the extra parts and plumbing.


Midnight 85. Haven't heard any extra noises. Yes, I saved all the plumbing and hoses, and did not cut the wiring harness. Gas here in S.C. (Spartanberg) is 2.40 per gallon

 

I have a big problem with the price of gas but that's another story. I get 27 mpg on the highway with the Vette even though it's modded but my 1998 GMC Z71 only gets 17 and it's untouched. And yes, I have cats on the Vette, two hi-flows in a true dual system and it runs closed loop.

 

I removed mine, along with ten feet of hoses valves and tubing. It cleaned up the engine compartment nicely. I can send you a pic of the bracket and idler pulley I made myself for less than $20, to take the place of the smog pump.