Comment on battery...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 19
From: SW Chicago Burbs IL
Comment on battery...
I'm not sure if you guys recall, but I was having some electrical issues before with my headlights....well, did a bunch of things, got it mostly worked out. I was still having a problem with my amps dropping a little, so I checked my battery with the voltmeter and it seemed fine...
Well, I took it to work last night and had our mechanics check it out - guy put it on the snap on machine and it initially showed 12.49 volts (which I thought was good) but then he did a load test and it dropped to about 10 right away. Here's what the printout looked like (I didn't feel like scanning it)
Battery: Bad
Battery Size: 720 CCA
Available Amps: 182 CCA
% Rated Capacity: 25%
Battery Temp: 70 F
Initial Volts: 12.49 V
Final Volts: 12.49 V
Impedence: 17.57 ma
Charge Time: 3 Min
I guess the bottom line is that you really need to load test the battery if you think it's bad. Just thought I'd share my experience.
Got the new one in today and I'm happy
Take care,
Matthew
Well, I took it to work last night and had our mechanics check it out - guy put it on the snap on machine and it initially showed 12.49 volts (which I thought was good) but then he did a load test and it dropped to about 10 right away. Here's what the printout looked like (I didn't feel like scanning it)
Battery: Bad
Battery Size: 720 CCA
Available Amps: 182 CCA
% Rated Capacity: 25%
Battery Temp: 70 F
Initial Volts: 12.49 V
Final Volts: 12.49 V
Impedence: 17.57 ma
Charge Time: 3 Min
I guess the bottom line is that you really need to load test the battery if you think it's bad. Just thought I'd share my experience.
Got the new one in today and I'm happy
Take care,
Matthew
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 19
From: SW Chicago Burbs IL
It's not that tough, really. It was three screws in the wheel well, one bolt on the top of the panel, and one bolt on the bottom to remove the "gill" portion. The bottom bolt is disturbing, though, because you have to put an open ended wrench through a tiny little slot to get to it and I kept thinking it was going to slip off and mess up the paint or break something. Once that was off it's just one battery hold down and removing the cables. Checked all the wiring while I had the battery out (a lot easier to do it then) and it all seems good - looks like the PO replaced the cables before me. Overall not too bad of a job.
Matthew
Matthew
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
You should be able to remove the C4 battery in about 5 minutes once you start. The trick is to not remove the bolt at the bottrom of the gill panel or get it too loose. About 1 turn or 1 1/2 turns is all that is needed.With the battery out, it's a good idea to remove the back half of the inner fender panel, remove the battery tray and clean everything up. If a battery had leaked at some point in the past, there could be corrosion down on the frame or any wires below the batter may have some insulation eaten away.
The hard part is getting the gill panel aligned properly once the new battery is in place and connected
I loosely fit the panel in place, close the hood and the door, and then snug up the lower bolt and the three screws while keeping the panel even with the door, hood and watching the gaps on the three sides. Then I raise the hood and tighten everything down.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,933
Likes: 103
From: Peoria Arizona.. Resident Gold Cylon
I'm not sure if you guys recall, but I was having some electrical issues before with my headlights....well, did a bunch of things, got it mostly worked out. I was still having a problem with my amps dropping a little, so I checked my battery with the voltmeter and it seemed fine...
Well, I took it to work last night and had our mechanics check it out - guy put it on the snap on machine and it initially showed 12.49 volts (which I thought was good) but then he did a load test and it dropped to about 10 right away. Here's what the printout looked like (I didn't feel like scanning it)
Battery: Bad
Battery Size: 720 CCA
Available Amps: 182 CCA
% Rated Capacity: 25%
Battery Temp: 70 F
Initial Volts: 12.49 V
Final Volts: 12.49 V
Impedence: 17.57 ma
Charge Time: 3 Min
I guess the bottom line is that you really need to load test the battery if you think it's bad. Just thought I'd share my experience.
Got the new one in today and I'm happy
Take care,
Matthew
Well, I took it to work last night and had our mechanics check it out - guy put it on the snap on machine and it initially showed 12.49 volts (which I thought was good) but then he did a load test and it dropped to about 10 right away. Here's what the printout looked like (I didn't feel like scanning it)
Battery: Bad
Battery Size: 720 CCA
Available Amps: 182 CCA
% Rated Capacity: 25%
Battery Temp: 70 F
Initial Volts: 12.49 V
Final Volts: 12.49 V
Impedence: 17.57 ma
Charge Time: 3 Min
I guess the bottom line is that you really need to load test the battery if you think it's bad. Just thought I'd share my experience.
Got the new one in today and I'm happy
Take care,
Matthew
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
Likes: 12
From: Fisher, IL
I know my old battery in my DD was working but when tested there was a bad cell or something causing it to not charge properly. So a proper test of a battery is a must. Most good battery places do it for free too.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 19
From: SW Chicago Burbs IL
Ture statement Matt I have found after owning two C4s if the battery is not 100% up to snuff strange electrcial events will happen. Almost like your car has gremlins. The bad kind that were fed at night lol. Glad you traced it down. I had a battery in simular condition that drove me nuts for weeks before I finally figured out it was the culprit all the long.
Matthew
