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If you upgrade the fronts the bias spring(which only affects the rear brakes)is a slight help.Fitting one to a stock system in my opinion is a waste of time and possibly dangerous on a non ABS vehicle.
I was also looking at this modification but could not get out the spring from my master cilinder from a 94 vette.
Is there a trick to the removal?
I could get out the other side components.
I was also looking at this modification but could not get out the spring from my master cilinder from a 94 vette.
Is there a trick to the removal?
I could get out the other side components.
I think you are talking about the O-ring? You need to use an O-ring pliers to remove it. Run a search over in tech there was a thread with pictures. I remember removing the piston in there to. That you are suppose to use a mechanics pick. A fish hook or something similar may work, I used a small but strong knife to catch the metal edge in the center of the piston and pull it out.
I did mine about 2 years ago, and did a write up on it but I don't know if it would still be in archive. Remove the snap ring, change the spring, then shove the spring and c-clip back in with a screwdriver blade just smaller than the bore so you can push it in and it will snap into the grove when it gets there. Be careful not to scratch the bore. I recall it took me less than 30 minutes to do the whole thing start to finish.
the C4´s problem isn't brake power, that can be done pretty simple with some race brake pads.. The problem is fade due to heat.
If you drive you corvette hard enough to feel the difference with BIAS spring, you all so drive the car hard enough to start thinking about other mods. Pads, duct cooling, rotors etc...'
I went all the way, and have this kit laying waiting to get mounted this winter.
I just read an article in Chevy High Performance, an old issue. They did a test and 89 stock Vette wheels ran 75 degrees hotter than open ZR-1 wheels. It seems the airflow over the rotors makes a big difference.
I bought a bias spring from DRM and installed it on my stock system in my 90 and noticed a change.....less front dive and more rear brake dust, so I guess it does something. I can't say that I have any hard data to back up my "feelings" that it must be doing something though. Oh, I have semi-metallic pads from raybestos...if that makes a difference.
I found that installing mine was easier to do with the M/C out of the car. JMHO, but bleeding my 90 is a PIA!
Well, that would be a good Q. Once opened and the spring inserted, wouldn't the "Braking"(sp. Brain was on a BrEak) system then require a 4wheel bleed? Or is there no fluid loss\air penetration during the exchange?
.Fitting one to a stock system in my opinion is a waste of time and possibly dangerous on a non ABS vehicle.
dangerous even with ABS because ''lateral acceleration sensor'' SHUTS OFF the ABS by design during normal turning manuevers, when rear wheel lock-up guarantees ''swappin' ends''.
i have sat in turn 1, facing the wrong way, with 20 cars coming at me at over 120 mph... my fault for ''dialing in'' too much rear brake with the adjustable prop valve...trust me, thrilling
i scanned through this thread and although i have read that the mod helps in the ft end not "dipping" during braking, can anyone whom has ever installed this absolutely say that it has improved the stopping power in their cars?
i realize that there is a certain amount of cumulative brake pressure coming from the m/c at a certain pressure "input" (pressure on the brake pedal from your foot) but, does the modified division of the power by use of the spring increase stopping power?
i scanned through this thread and although i have read that the mod helps in the ft end not "dipping" during braking, can anyone whom has ever installed this absolutely say that it has improved the stopping power in their cars?
i realize that there is a certain amount of cumulative brake pressure coming from the m/c at a certain pressure "input" (pressure on the brake pedal from your foot) but, does the modified division of the power by use of the spring increase stopping power?
I have read articles showing a stopping distance improvement but I have not tested it myself. I have been thinking of testing different pads stopping distance and could test the spring to. I would spray paint a line on the road for where to start braking and then measure the distance.
Has anyone tried those springs that can be inserted into the Master Cylinder to increase breaking performance? Do they really make any difference?
There is a lot of good information here but you really have to define and quantify “increase breaking performance”. Sure the spring changes the braking balance from front to rear. But it does not just increase breaking performance, it re-balances the braking system.
Since there is a known braking problem with the C4, and most of your braking is done in the fronts, why would you want to shift braking power from the front to the rear given a standard braking system.
But if something is changed with the front brakes, like the J55 13” system is installed, then you might consider doing the spring. The car might be over braked at that point and will dive. Then the spring would be utilized in a correct way.
The spring was originally designed to transfer braking to the rear if additional brake power was added to the fronts. Then the rears could work a little harder.