well this post is a bit late in coming since I did it in August but just wanted to share that a push button start in a C4 is possible with little pain. a few of the biggest glitches were finding mounting points for switches and the button. Got this done pretty easily with the help of SCCA VETTE (once again thanks ). With this system I can listen to the radio without the key and start the car without the key.

Also if anyone has any links to an RFID circuit board that controls a relay it'd be greatly helpful as then I can set up security on the button much like the C6. (I've found a few boards but I'm searching for the best price)

here's a video of it in action, at the moment I left the steering lock in till I get some security that way no one can just steal it.

 

Whats the weird noise before the starter engages?

 

Nice

can you post details of the installation?

 

The stereo

Cool set up !!

 

Nice setup!!!!

 

Can you take come pictures of what it looks like? hard to see from the video. Pretty neat idea.

 

More info would be great! And some pics Im interested!

 

 

I've done this on my '88 harness as well as on my '91 harness. There are three wires you will need to switch - Ignition1, Ignition3 and ACC. Then there is a starter wire.

If you are interested in only a push button start while retaining the ignition key for all other functions run a 14 gauge wire from the battery distribution block behind the battery to the location of your push start switch then cut the yellow 14 gauge wire to the blue connector at the ignition switch at the base of the steering column and run it to your push button switch.

If you are looking to eliminate the entire ignition switch: There is a blue and a black connector near the base of the steering column this is the electrical part of the ignition switch. Leading to these blue and black connectors are 6 large gauge wires - an orange, and red to the black connector and a brown, yellow, red and pink to the blue connector.


Decide where you want to place your switches - three toggle switches and a good high quality momentary switch for the push button start witch. Disconnect the battery. Remove the connectors and cut the large gauge wires. Use the same gauge and color wire (to make things easier to diagnose, and keep things looking nice). Get a nice junction post block from a auto parts or marine store. Run the two red wires to the junction block using ring connectors. From the junction block using the same red wire run four wires to wherever you want to put your three toggle and push start switch.

From the orange, pink and brown wires at the ignition switch run similar color and gauge wire all the way to the toggle switches. Connect each to one side of the toggle switch (each switch should be a minimum of 25 amps, 50amp is better) and run three of the four red wires to the other side of the switched.

Now run the remaining red wire to the momentary switch, and the yellow wire from the column to the other side of the momentary switch. Bosch makes some nice black momentary switches that can be used as the start button. If you want to use a nice factory start button I think you will need to run a relay, as I don't think the switch itself is made to handle current directly to the starter.

The three toggle switches are IGN 1, IGN 2 and IGN 3. IGN1 (pink wire) powers the distributor, gauges/turn signal, cruise, cluster, inj1 and 2 CCM, and air bag. IGN 2 Brown wire (accessory) powers wiper fuse, and a few other things. Orange (IGN 3) Powers A/C fuse, P/W fuse and other accessories.

If you are doing this you will probably want to remove the column lock plate in the column and cut the teeth off the plate then reinstall it. That way you can remove the ignition switch all together. I also installed a battery disconnect switch acts as my "ignition" switch but I rarely use this. I also have a hidden fuel pump kill switch, and a switch that controls the ground side of my VATS bypass unit so VATS functions as should if I flick the hidden switch.

That brings up another point - if your car has VATS you will need to bypass it as you will no longer be using the ignition switch.

My car has been set up with the above setup for a few years and everything works as it should. No problems at all.

 

Just FYI, you can get panels that are pre-made for an OK cost. They might fit in the DIC center.

http://www.saferacer.com/longacre-fl...?productid=628

SAFERACER: 44.95



Or a larger panel with more switches:



I've been tempted to put one in and a battery cut-off.

 

Sorry I didn't mention your name VtVette its been so long I forgot it,,, but yes VtVette's post is exactly what I did except I tied IGN1 and IGN2 into one switch and the ACC into another. Also I went the way of the resistor, I tried making my own bypass module but it fried while testing, besides with the resistor(www.vatssucks.com) the car alarm will still lock out the ignition for 2 minutes so it's some antitheft.

I forgot to take pics while it was not at home but when I'm through my exams this weekend I'll get some up.

as for that switch console it looks like a good deal, I'll have to look into it thanks.

 

hmmm i think i have seen that somewhere before!

 

And the point of that is, Ive really good theft insurance?

 

Don't get mad. Hearing it through the 1/2" single cone speaker on this laptop, it sounded like something grinding on the car. It may actually be perfectly good music.

 

? you lost me on this!

 

Man I want to do this so bad to my 85 but the color of wires in the 85 are different. Can you instuct me for the 85. Thanks.

 

You opened a 3 year old thread............

 

Nothing else to do in this weather Jim.

 

Although I have to admit this is something I'd like to do someday.

 

I'm trying to build a 85 autocross car and when I took the radio out the car won't start. I'm from the old school and hate all the new stuff. I just want to flip a switch and push a botton.