I doing some spring clean up and service on my 94 LT1 and am getting ready to do the window seals. Do I need any other things, you know guides, etc. The windows work just fine, the seals are falling apart. I was thinking while I have the door panels off, maybe I oughta fix other things. But, nothing else seems broke, that is until I take it apart.

BTW, I clay barred it today and used Maguires (spelling) wax on it. Ain't sure the wax and clay was worth the time. Plain ole Simoniz(or Turtle was) looks pretty good on it, and it's only 1/2 the time to do.

Anyway, it damn sure looks a LOT better now.

bill

 

When you install the new door seals, you will need to fasten them in some way. I used some #10 screws, but the heads stuck out, so a covered them with felt stick ons used for furnature. Worked great.

 

This should help........


Date Published: 2003-05-27


I ordered my seals form Eckler�s. Fit was perfect and included six replacement pop rivets but no instructions. I use a combination of previous posts and a little common sense to get the job done. The procedure was done on my 91. Adjustments should be made for other years. Took about 30 min per door (this does not include smoke and refreshment breaks). Put both windows down and disconnect the battery. I removed the door panels completely since I wanted to do some lubing and adjusting. Pretty straightforward, just remove the screws you can see. Don�t forget the one inside the handle and the one by the hatch release. Then pry out the courtesy light using a small flat blade screwdriver � there is one hiding there. Next, pull the lock **** forward (unlocked position), place the same screw driver behind the front edge and pry to you (thanks 65Z01). Push the rod up slightly and remove the screw behind it. Pull up on the panel and hold it in one hand. Reach behind the panel and separate all the electrical connectors. Place the panel on a pre-positioned blanket. Loosen the felt adjusters with a 10mm socket to allow the window some movement. Place a few runs of masking tape along the top edge of the window just in case. The three rivets are visible. You will have to push down on the door weatherstrip to see the end ones. Drill out each rivet. My drill bit was 3 inches long so I cut a piece of fuel hose to 2 � inches and slipped it over the bit for insurance. I used a small putty knife and a hammer to cut the heads off of the rivets. Starting at the front, slip a small flat blade screwdriver between the door and the old seal at the locations of the clips. Pry the clip free of the old seal. The clips will remain attached to the door. Pull the seal free. Use a small pair of needle nose pliers to pull the clips free. Clean off the wax line and wax the area. Fit the replacement seal to the door. Insure that the clips and holes for the pop rivet line up. Push the clips into the slots and install the rivets. Adjust the felt pads and tighten the bolts. Reinstall the door panel. Note that on the PS door there is a bolt behind the power window switch. Use a small amount of RTV in the socket to keep it from dropping inside the door. Remove the tape, reconnect the battery and you are done. Not that bad of a job. Actually took longer to write this up than to do one side. Hope this helps those who haven�t done it but need to. Bill

 

Check this out. I followed it and it was a breeze:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2001...ndow/win-1.asp

 

Thanks to Steel Blue 91 and nickyg.....and others.....

Gotta say....my hat's off to you boyz if it "wasn't a bad job" and you "did one side in 30 minutes"....

Would'a been MOST instructive for me to sit in my lawn chair with an adult beverage watching you work. I would'a learned LOTS!

Took me 4 hours for one side.....even following all the advice here....and in the fsm.....and "101 projects for your Corvette".

For those of you gonna attempt this bad **** (IMHO), there are DIFFERENCES between the procedures for early C4's vs later C4's.

On my '92......only ONE source mentions the final screw holding the panel to the door....BEHIND THE POWER WINDOW SWITCH!!!. And the only mention comes on the RE-INSTALL.

Also.....I'm wondering....and NOBODY mentions this.....as I'm drilling out the old rivets, all those metal shavings are falling down inside the door. How did YOU ALL combat this? I'm envisioning scratches on the windows...

Woulda had my sweet wife hold the shop vac to suck 'em up as I drilled, but she was doing errands.

Didn't wanna chance drilling with one hand, holding the shop vac with the other, and accidentally drilling thru the door....

I'm hoping for about an hour or so on the driver's door tomorrow, now that I have all of the correct gear and tools laid out.

Pray for me my brutha's!

At least, the passenger side is done correctly..(I think).. and looks good!

Dumbest, slowest C4 wrench on the planet, signing off.

Again...THANKS to earlier posters! Your help was much appreciated. Hopefully, I can add just a bit here, for late C4 guys.

 

I put a rag right under the pop rivet, it caught most of the shavings. I did have the door panel and inner vapor barrier and center door panel off at the time so I used a shop vac and damp rag to clean out the inside of the door panels. Had old window seal rubber at the bottom of the door.

 

Dayum!

Now there's an idea!!!

I'll use that tomorrow on the driver's side.

Gotta LOVE this rocket science!!!!!

Thanks!

 

1.5 hrs on the driver's side....MUCH smoother.....

A word of advice....

Be careful when repositioniong the window rattler felts on the re-install...

If you crank too hard with a standard screwdriver, it's easy to over-torque and have the screwdriver abruptly slip DOWN thru the slot and score your window....

Ask me if you've got questions.