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Hatch release question?

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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 12:09 AM
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Default Hatch release question?

On my 87, the passenger side door hatch release won't open. The other two hatch releases work fine. It won't make a clicking sound in the back when I push the button. Can I fix this and do I have to take the door panel off or can you somehow remove the switch? Should I just buy a new switch from Ecklers for 13 bucks? All suggestions appreciated. Todd
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 07:36 AM
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Sounds like that switch is bad.
If it clicked and the other switches didn't work either, it would probably be the solenoid...

Rik
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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You have to pull the panel off. You might get away with pulling the screws and tilting the panel, but I think it would be awkward trying to un-clip the switch and/or diagnose.
Pull the electrical connector apart and briefly jump the hatch side of connector to test wiring to relay/solenoid. Put you DMM on ohms and put the leads on switch side of connector, rock switch and look for continuity.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
You have to pull the panel off. You might get away with pulling the screws and tilting the panel, but I think it would be awkward trying to un-clip the switch and/or diagnose.
Pull the electrical connector apart and briefly jump the hatch side of connector to test wiring to relay/solenoid. Put you DMM on ohms and put the leads on switch side of connector, rock switch and look for continuity.
What does that mean, jump the hatch side of connector to test wiring to relay/solenoid. Put your DMM on ohms and put the leads on switch side of connector, rock switch and look for continuity.
I apologize for my lack of mechanical skill. I want to do the work myself but I just need a little more guidance. Sorry for the inconvenience.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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DMM = Digital Multi Meter
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
You have to pull the panel off. You might get away with pulling the screws and tilting the panel, but I think it would be awkward trying to un-clip the switch and/or diagnose.
Pull the electrical connector apart and briefly jump the hatch side of connector to test wiring to relay/solenoid. Put you DMM on ohms and put the leads on switch side of connector, rock switch and look for continuity.


The terminals are soldered on the switch but there is a plug connector about 8 inches back in the wires. I replaced mine with a SPST generic rocker switch. It's not a momentary like OEM but it works just fine.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by todds87dream
What does that mean, jump the hatch side of connector to test wiring to relay/solenoid. Put your DMM on ohms and put the leads on switch side of connector, rock switch and look for continuity.
I apologize for my lack of mechanical skill. I want to do the work myself but I just need a little more guidance. Sorry for the inconvenience.


"jump the hatch side of connector to test wiring to relay/solenoid" = take a small piece of wire and briefly touch both terminals in connector, at the same time. This duplicates what the switch is supposed to do.

"Put your DMM on ohms and put the leads on switch side of connector, rock switch and look for continuity."
DMM, digital multi meter. When set in Ohms, it will show continuity if the switch is good. If you get no reading while rocking the switch on and off, it's toast.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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Thanks agent86, getting my DMM tonight. What a great anniversary present from my wife. Do you recommend any brands?
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Old May 1, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by todds87dream
Thanks agent86, getting my DMM tonight. What a great anniversary present from my wife. Do you recommend any brands?

Fluke...................
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