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Windows down, because up, the trim is off, there for it will just flop around, and get scratched up !
Scratched up on what? Just use common sense carefulness and there no problems with that. I never have.
I'm not saying it you shouldn't do it with the windows down if you prefer.
But calling it the "right" way is not correct. And, if done this way, they should be masked before they are rolled down.
Many prefer to shoot the car with the doors removed. You can sure do a better job on the door jambs this way. It also makes it easier to paint the perimeters of the doors since they can be painted on a table. This way the windows can be masked and rolled down or removed all together.
Getting back to the main subject. In any case, all glass if masked properly, will not have overspray on them when the paint job is completed. If they do, then the bodyshop just is not doing the job right.
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A clay bar is the easiest and safest way to get rid of overspray on paint or windows. Use a generous amount of quick detailer as a spray lubricant for the clay bar. It works.
For those who havent followed my thread. I have done ALL body work. The body shop is only cleaning, taping and spraying. Im not paying for a full service, its more of a favor. The over spray will be minimal, and part of my reassembly.
I work for a commercial glass company and we build windows with tempered glass - pretty much the same as in our cars. We get all sorts of goop on them from time to time and will use a razor blade on a 45-degree angle to clean them without scratching the glass. The thing is... you MUST use a brand new razor blade! If it's been used before, to cut anything, there's a chance that it may have a tiny nick in it - and that's enough to scratch your glass! You won't notice it until later, but once it's there, it a PITA to try to remove scratches from tempered (or tempered laminated) glass. Any commercial glass shop will be able to sell (give?) you what you're looking for as they'll buy single sided industrial razor blades in bulk. Stainless steel 0000 steel wool works too - but don't use regular steel wool as it will disintegrate and the metal particals can stick to paint and other surfaces and then rust.
I think that I'm going to have to agree with nyernga1 - clay bar is probably the best choice (best to use the least agressive means first)! I was just trying to say that it's ok to use a razor on glass (if necessary) if you follow some basic precautions first.
I have worked in furniture for 50 years. You want to talk about laq on glass. Razors will scratch and nick trim and paint. Wet steel wool can also damage glass and surrounding area. Cuts too fast.Use 0000 steel wool soft repeating strokes. It will come right off.