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I have been having quite a lot of problems with my vats on my 87 coupe. It is driving me crazy. Sometimes it works and sometimes you have to wait 10-15 minutes before it will start. One day it took 5 hours before the damned thing would start. I have switched keys but to no avail. I am considering a vats bypass system from Corvette Central. Any one have experience with these? According to the vendor they are simple to install and all I have to do is get my key code from the GM dealer to place the order. It seems like it would save a lot of headaches. Any pros or cons?
I have been having quite a lot of problems with my vats on my 87 coupe. It is driving me crazy. Sometimes it works and sometimes you have to wait 10-15 minutes before it will start. One day it took 5 hours before the damned thing would start. I have switched keys but to no avail. I am considering a vats bypass system from Corvette Central. Any one have experience with these? According to the vendor they are simple to install and all I have to do is get my key code from the GM dealer to place the order. It seems like it would save a lot of headaches. Any pros or cons?
i have mine bypassed. I wouldn't take it on a ride wihout it. The VATS system is too unreliable.
You may also want to check the starter enable relay. That can cause as many problems as the VATS and they are inter-related.
The Starter Relay was bad on mine, but I also bypassed the VATS myself (actually just the Starter Enable part) by grounding the Starter Relay. I got this from Gordon Killebrew:
Ground Wire from Relay to CCM (This is for a 1990 Vette):
Remove Driver Side kick panel and look to the Left of the column for 3 Relays. Look for the Relay with 2 Heavy Gauge Yellow wires, 1 Purple Wire (starter) and 1 Black with Yellow Stripe wire. Ground the Black with Yellow Stripe wire to the Instrument Panel.
You will still have some VATS "protection" throught the Fuel Enable Relay part of VATS
I have been having quite a lot of problems with my vats on my 87 coupe. It is driving me crazy. Sometimes it works and sometimes you have to wait 10-15 minutes before it will start. One day it took 5 hours before the damned thing would start. I have switched keys but to no avail. I am considering a vats bypass system from Corvette Central. Any one have experience with these? According to the vendor they are simple to install and all I have to do is get my key code from the GM dealer to place the order. It seems like it would save a lot of headaches. Any pros or cons?
I replaced the ignition barrel in the steering column and mine has been working great for 4 years, I think it was around $80 if I can remember.
Your headaches are all your doings done to yourself. When the car won't start, that is the time to do some diagnosis to find out why it won't start, not wait 15 minutes everytime it happens. I drive my 87 everyday, it has 223k miles on it and I have had the contacts in the ign lock fail twice, 9 years apart and replaced the ign lock both times. VATS is very reliable and it will keep your car from being stolen by the most common method, bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
Most likely the contacts in the ign lock that make connection to the pellet in your ign key are worn. If you had used the search function on this forum, you would have been buried in information on how to diagnose your VATS system. I have typed the following advice more than 350 times, here goes one more time.
When it won't start, unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if automatic) and jump the switch connector. Then measure the voltage at the jumper when you hit crank position on the ign sw. If you have 12v in crank, then you have a problem with the battery, battery cable connection, or the starter. If you don't have 12v, then pull the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from above the steering column that goes to a 2 pin connector and unplug it. Insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as the pellet. If more than 4% from the pellet, or over 13k ohms, then you have a defective ign lock and it should be replaced. New locks have new contacts in them. You can temporarily bypass VATS until you can schedule a lock replacement by connecting a fixed resistor across the 2 contacts in the wiring harness socket (goes to VATS module) the same value as the pellet. You can use one or more 1/4 watt 5% resistors from Radio Shack. Resistance must be within 4% of the correct value.
Why anyone would keep getting stuck over and over and getting more and more angry about a no start problem and not do anything about it is something I will never ever understand. Keep your car in good repair and don't bypass anything! The person I bought my 87 from bought a 90 vette and one day after work found the 90 with a busted out window and column, but the vette hadn't budged an inch. A word to the wise..........
I got stuck once, car has 112,000, 1986 small mods.
When the vats strained me i disconnected the battery then connected it again and of i when ( still think someone was messing withe the car when it happened)
Here's the answer to all your problems.www.vatssucks.com.
just remember any bypassing that you do to the ignition switch still leaves the rest of the system active.Your problem sounds like a $12.85 starter enable relay.Read the web site and try bypassing it before you waste money changing things out.
I have been having quite a lot of problems with my vats on my 87 coupe. It is driving me crazy. Sometimes it works and sometimes you have to wait 10-15 minutes before it will start. One day it took 5 hours before the damned thing would start. I have switched keys but to no avail. I am considering a vats bypass system from Corvette Central. Any one have experience with these? According to the vendor they are simple to install and all I have to do is get my key code from the GM dealer to place the order. It seems like it would save a lot of headaches. Any pros or cons?
Fixed mine. Took 10 minutes to install. Remove hush panel from dirvers side, find vats (small plug) wire that comes out steerng column and unplug it. Plung in your by-pass, reinstall hush panel....DONE! The alarm system stays active should someone enter the vehicle without using the key.
The real fix with yours is most likely to replace the lock cylinder. Still have to know the vats code before ordering that part too. That involves $120 + part and taking the steering column half apart to install.
I have an 1987 roadster that I bought new and it had this problem starting after a couple of years. I had bought numerous new keys and the problem still existed. Last year, I had the ignition switch replaced and the problem is gone!
I replaced the ignition barrel in the steering column and mine has been working great for 4 years, I think it was around $80 if I can remember.
I did this a copla years ago; cost me around $50-$60 for the lock & master key plus two ign keys with the chips. There was another $20 or so for tools to deal with the tele-wheel...
Your headaches are all your doings done to yourself. When the car won't start, that is the time to do some diagnosis to find out why it won't start, not wait 15 minutes everytime it happens. I drive my 87 everyday, it has 223k miles on it and I have had the contacts in the ign lock fail twice, 9 years apart and replaced the ign lock both times. VATS is very reliable and it will keep your car from being stolen by the most common method, bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
Most likely the contacts in the ign lock that make connection to the pellet in your ign key are worn. If you had used the search function on this forum, you would have been buried in information on how to diagnose your VATS system. I have typed the following advice more than 350 times, here goes one more time.
When it won't start, unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if automatic) and jump the switch connector. Then measure the voltage at the jumper when you hit crank position on the ign sw. If you have 12v in crank, then you have a problem with the battery, battery cable connection, or the starter. If you don't have 12v, then pull the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from above the steering column that goes to a 2 pin connector and unplug it. Insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as the pellet. If more than 4% from the pellet, or over 13k ohms, then you have a defective ign lock and it should be replaced. New locks have new contacts in them. You can temporarily bypass VATS until you can schedule a lock replacement by connecting a fixed resistor across the 2 contacts in the wiring harness socket (goes to VATS module) the same value as the pellet. You can use one or more 1/4 watt 5% resistors from Radio Shack. Resistance must be within 4% of the correct value.
Why anyone would keep getting stuck over and over and getting more and more angry about a no start problem and not do anything about it is something I will never ever understand. Keep your car in good repair and don't bypass anything! The person I bought my 87 from bought a 90 vette and one day after work found the 90 with a busted out window and column, but the vette hadn't budged an inch. A word to the wise..........
-+
Thanks for the info but you may want to consider a decaff for pity sake man!
Here's the answer to all your problems.www.vatssucks.com.
just remember any bypassing that you do to the ignition switch still leaves the rest of the system active.Your problem sounds like a $12.85 starter enable relay.Read the web site and try bypassing it before you waste money changing things out.
Thank you! Thank you ever so much. The information was simple and seems very complete. Thanks again my friend. Thanks to all who tried to help.
I received the VATS bypass today and installed it. VOILLA! The car started right up. Thanks to those who responded. For the one who responded with the venom(you know who you are) Sit on it! Your advice was worthless which was just what I paid for it.
I received the VATS bypass today and installed it. VOILLA! The car started right up. Thanks to those who responded. For the one who responded with the venom(you know who you are) Sit on it! Your advice was worthless which was just what I paid for it.
The gear selector switch is located at the base of the gear shift lever and it does the same thing as the clutch safety switch. It completes the circuit to the starter solenoid when the gear shift lever is in park or neutral.