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Hi everyone.......I am looking to buy a buffer/polisher. What name do you recomend and where are the best prices. I'v heard about Porter Cable and Griot's Garage.
Porter Cable model 7424. I guess the girl rpm is different than the other rpm since most good polishes require a medium speed. Anyway, I'm happy with it.
Makita makes a nice rotary with adjustable speed, too. I think the best price I've seen for them new was on e-bay - under $200. If you want a cheap one, Harbor Freight has a decent one that I've seen on sale for about $30.
I have a Makita #9227C 7" buffer which is Very Quiet. Some of the other brands have a loud high pitched sound which is very bad unless you wear hearing protection.
If you just want to wax and polish your vehicles, The Porter Cable Random Orbital buffer/polisher is safe for the beginner and very easy to use.
My wife works at a votech near our home so I spend alot of time talking to the guy that teaches body shop. He has both Makita and Dewalt buffers and when I asked him why he uses these brands he said because they are the only ones that will hold up with kids using them. So I figure if anyone knows about what is best it would be him....WW
with the Makita guys. It costs a lot more, but it's a precision tool.
I detailed cars for a living from 1986-1995. I have used the SAME variable Makita for about 17 years. It goes from 1K RPM- 13K RPM! The only thing I had to replace was the cord, and thousands of pads! Remember, like most things, it can get expensive if you want to do it right.
The only problem i see (and i ran a 10 man detailed shop for 2 years) was the Higher speeds on the Makita make it VERY EASY to burn your paint!
If you don't know what "Burning the paint" means, You should stay with the Chinese buffer. They are slower, and safer for your molding, rubber, and paint. I've seen hundreds of cars ruined because people tried to detail them the wrong way. BTW- I hate swirl marks... God Bless!
I had a Black & Decker commercial (same as De Walt) and it lasted for years in my body shop. It's a nice piece of equipment. I wish I had my girly buffer back. I use my 8" Portar Cable Grinder for buffing now, but it's a pain. I'd rather have to not move as fast and not be on my toes every second while using it. The B&D was great for all finishes. Wool cutting pad for the heavy orange peel and a foam finese pad for getting rid of the swirl marks. Like I said, it worked great.
As was stated, if you've never used one, it's almost worth buying a fender from the junkyard to practice on so you don't wreck an expensive paint job.
Last edited by earthquake68; Nov 14, 2008 at 04:21 PM.
Since you've never used a buffer before, go to a good body or detail shop and ask them if they can show you how to buff properly. It's hard to explain in text and watching is the best way to learn.
Buffing takes skill patience and experience to know what to watch out for and can really damage a paint finish if not careful.
Since you've never used a buffer before, go to a good body or detail shop and ask them if they can show you how to buff properly. It's hard to explain in text and watching is the best way to learn.
Buffing takes skill patience and experience to know what to watch out for and can really damage a paint finish if not careful.
I've polished hundreds of cars, and for the money the Ingersol Rand air buffer is realy hard to beat.
Next is the DeWalt variable......the rest are toys.
Three of the most important things to remember when buffing is ( Start off with the buffer running at a slower speed so you don't burn the paint,Keep the buffer moving at all times, and Never run the buffer on a edge....WW
Since you've never used a buffer before, go to a good body or detail shop and ask them if they can show you how to buff properly. It's hard to explain in text and watching is the best way to learn.
Buffing takes skill patience and experience to know what to watch out for and can really damage a paint finish if not careful.
You probably do not want to learn the do's and don'ts of buffing on your Corvette.
As to what buffer you need, it depends on what you are trying to correct. There isnt' only one tool for the job.
My two cents, but if you want to start out with less risk, I'd start out with an orbital polisher like a Porter Cable, or if you want a real quality tool that you could pass onto your kids, a Cyclo. Even if you find you want/need a rotary buffer, an orbital will still have a use/place in your toolbox as not every problem needs a rotary.
I've had my experience with buffers, and I don't use them on the vette since the new paint job, elbow grease on it, meaning I polish it by hand. I had the misfortune of burning through paint on a new 4X4. I also don't like swirl marks or paterns. One thing I'll caution you about is if you do use a buffer, don't go cheapo on pads, make sure you know what compound you're putting on your paint (some are more abrasive than others) to me, low speed is the best, because with high speed (at least in my experience) makes it easier to burn through.
having some good 3M foam round edge waffle pads (white and gray)might end up costing more than the buffer......not to mention some finese II, and3M micro etc. compounds......vari-speed electrics are fine
I like the girls buffer part.... very manly mo' power