Have you painted your garage floor?
#21
Pro
All you guys looking for a good product that will last, check out this site. I have had great luck so far.
www.epoxycoatfloorpaint.com You will have to copy and paste this link into your web browser. This is a very quality and durable product in my opinion. It is a 100% solids oil based epoxy vs. those water based epoxy paints where alot evaporates off when drying. With this stuff, wet thickness is the final thickness.
If you go according to the directions you should have good luck. Make sure you are familiar with the directions and if you have any questions, don't be afraid to call them.
www.epoxycoatfloorpaint.com You will have to copy and paste this link into your web browser. This is a very quality and durable product in my opinion. It is a 100% solids oil based epoxy vs. those water based epoxy paints where alot evaporates off when drying. With this stuff, wet thickness is the final thickness.
If you go according to the directions you should have good luck. Make sure you are familiar with the directions and if you have any questions, don't be afraid to call them.
#23
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I had new carpet put in my house so I layed the old carpet on the floor in the garage. Never have the car in the rain so thats no problem. Plus it makes it nicer when you are working under the car in my opinion. Also my baby has her own rug to sleep on under her cover.
#25
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11,'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21,'22-'23-'24
Check out this web site. It covers a lot of garage related topics.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
#26
Melting Slicks
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I have a clean bare concrete floor and would never change it. THe problem with all of this sort of thing is it ends up something else to maintain and keep clean. I would hate to do any serious work on an expensive floor. I think they look great but if you work in your garage this seems like a potential headache. I don't have one of these designer floors so maybe I am incorrect. Anybody here do real work with on one of these fancy floors ?
#29
wish i knew about it before I did last garage. I used the Rust-Oleum garage product, 4 years and still looked great. . Prep is really the key, use muriatic acid (2X) to clean floor, wash off with baking soda mix, rinse (2X) then let dry for a few days. Find a decent stretch of no rain/65 degree weather in the spring, you'll be good to go. If you can get someone to start doing edges when mixed, then you roll right behind, job doesn't take long. Start in early morning. Worst part is no car traffic for 7 days and keeping toolboxes and stuff outside under tarp for 3 days. I had no hot tire pickup and have used floor jacks and stands with no problem. And don't forget to mix in some anti-skid product (I used BEHR) after you mix the epoxy. Wanna go nuts, then add a clear coat. Looks wet all the time. Have fun, it comes out looking good, you'll love it.
#30
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11,'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21,'22-'23-'24
I should add some detail (just based on my experience, I'm no garage floor expert). If you use the Rust-oleum, get the stuff that is not water based epoxy (check their web site). Costs a few bucks more, but everyone in floor trade told me it would hold up better. And I was told to use acid because my concrete floor was sealed. Easy to test, if you sprinkle water on floor and it beads up and stays, it's sealed. The water based stuff says do not apply to sealed floors. And dust, dirt and spills have always cleaned up pretty easy, I just power wash (gently) to keep it looking good. There is also another great post by Jakers in this section
Last edited by jimmymack; 01-23-2009 at 05:06 PM.
#31
I should add some detail (just based on my experience, I'm no garage floor expert). If you use the Rust-oleum, get the stuff that is not water based epoxy (check thier web site). Costs a few bucks more, but everyone in floor trade told me it would hold up better. And I was told to use acid because my concrete floor was sealed. Easy to test, if you sprinkle water on floor and it beads up and stays, it's sealed. The water based stuff says do not apply to sealed floors. And dust, dirt and spills have always cleaned up pretty easy, I just power wash (gently) to keep it looking good. There is also another great post by Jakers in this section
Good point. I am pretty sure my floor is sealed also.
#34
Racer
be really careful if you use a non-epoxy paint.my florida home garage was coated with a solvent based product of some kind by the builder. ererything made of rubber stuck to the floor including the door seals. i had to use a shovel to break the door seals loose from the floor.then a repaint did not help.the builder finally painted the floor a third time,put new seals on the doors and glued threshold seals to the floor at the three overhead doors. still had some minor problems with rubber items and tire marks. use epoxy if at all possible.
#36
I have a clean bare concrete floor and would never change it. THe problem with all of this sort of thing is it ends up something else to maintain and keep clean. I would hate to do any serious work on an expensive floor. I think they look great but if you work in your garage this seems like a potential headache. I don't have one of these designer floors so maybe I am incorrect. Anybody here do real work with on one of these fancy floors ?
#37
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mine used to be painted, dark green, and never had any problems, it held very well, but then decided to pressure wash off and start fresh, now I have green stain to put on. yes I have to work in my garage, because I don't want to wreck my black top or work on things in the elements, but some here look like basements more than garages
#38
I painted my garage floor last Spring with the Rustoleum 2 part epoxy kit available at Home Depot. Followed the instructions regarding cleaning, mixing, humidity & air temperature, etc. The floor came out better than my expectations. I used the plastic chips for color and to reduce slippery conditions. For approximately 750 sq. feet of garage floor I used 3.5 kits at about $65 per kit. I have experienced no problems with the paint and temperatures have been down into the low teens at night here lately. Only advice is to apply rather liberally with a paint roller and be sure any oil stains on bare concrete are cleaned up as well as possible. I waited 4 days to dry thoroughly and was good to go.
#40
2 light coats of blue. then the glitter. then 2 coats of clear with anti slip added.
Extremely slippery when temps 32F or lower when wet. Plus water and ice chunks stay forever. Need to squigy or broom to remove.. Not porus! Looks great when clean. Tires leave black marks on it but can scrub off with muscle.
Last edited by Rohn; 01-30-2009 at 03:39 PM.