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Clay bar?

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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 05:11 PM
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Default Clay bar?

How many guys actually do this? My buddy just did it on his S2000 and not that his car/paint needed it I'm a little jealous of his paint when my finger goes over it.

I saw a Meguirs Kit at Walmart for $15.96 seems pretty cheap. Just wondering if it's worth doing to a car or not. If I understand correctly it "pulls" out the bad things from the pores of the paint??

Explain your method when you use it or do you follow the directions on the back?

Thanks
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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I clay'd my 99' coupe (bought new) back in 2000 when it had 3,000 miles on it. I was trying Zaino for the first time and I thought I would just "Spot clay" the "trouble areas" as the car only had 3,000 miles on it. As I went around the car I decided to do the entire lower half of the passenger door. After I finished I took a work light and as I moved it up and down the difference was very apparent. I ended up doing to whole car after that.

I follow the instructions that Zaino sends - Wash the car before hand and then I use a spray bottle with car soap to act as a lubricant and gently rub the clay on the paint. As I notice the clay bar collecting grit, I fold the clay to expose fresh clay so I am not rubbing grit into the paint. In severe cases, I have had to use multiple clay bars to completely clay a vehicle.

The car care section has lots of threads on clay if you want to read up on it. I recommend clay, it does what it says it does.

Last edited by Square; Apr 13, 2009 at 03:06 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 05:36 PM
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I did 1/2 of my '66. Forgot which 1/2 I did and couldn't tell the difference. I felt it was a waste of time.

Then I accidentally got paint overspray all over my '88. I used the clay bar and it worked like a champ. Even did a good job on the glass and on the convertible window.

I just followed the directions on the package. Keep the surface wet enough.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 05:38 PM
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I used it once on my last car (haven't had time yet for my vette ), and it definitely makes a difference. It catches all the particulate crap on the surface of the paint and pulls it into the clay, or something like that. Use a quick-detailer spray as lubricant, and always make sure you have clean clay rubbing, and it will end up beautiful.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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It makes a huge difference. Something about the way light reflects. The surface impurities keep it from doing it to it's max. And you're correct, the feel is just amazing. I bought a Mothers kit and that is what I used also. Try it....it just takes 30 minutes to do a car with paint in decent shape.

Oh, I just followed the instructions in the kit.


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Clay Bar - Contamination Removal

Recommended Products | Facts | How-To's | Tips

Using a clay bar is the ideal prep stage prior to applying a polish, glaze, sealant and wax. In order to achieve maximum shine, gloss and depth, the surface must be as clean as possible for light to pass through the clear coat and give maximum reflection.

Last edited by Weav's Vet; Apr 13, 2009 at 06:18 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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I use it on my vette and truck and think it's worth the extra time and work. It's really not that much work but does take a little time. When you move your hand across the paint before and after you can tell the difference. It lifts tree sap or any other stuff that washing and waxing doesn't take off.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 06:43 PM
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What it really does is lift tiny contaminants off the paint so that when you're waxing or polishing they don't get rubbed around and scratch. I clay my cars, even the white one. It is one of those things where the better your paint is, the better the results are.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkBlue88
What it really does is lift tiny contaminants off the paint so that when you're waxing or polishing they don't get rubbed around and scratch. I clay my cars, even the white one. It is one of those things where the better your paint is, the better the results are.

That's true too.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkBlue88
What it really does is lift tiny contaminants off the paint so that when you're waxing or polishing they don't get rubbed around and scratch. I clay my cars, even the white one. It is one of those things where the better your paint is, the better the results are.
not much hope for mine
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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never done it
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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I bought a clay kit but haven't used it yet. I have looked at some before/after pics though and I'm looking forward to seeing the same result.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 07:52 PM
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Right after I bought my new G8 GT I took a clay bar to it. Amazing how much crud is on the paint of a new car.

If you have never clay barred paint before. It feels like the clay is gliding on top of the wetting agent rather then contacting the paint. Although it feels like it's not doing anything until you look at the clay. After you are finished, the paint is much smoother to the touch.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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Clay bar, by far the best way for an average guy to get the best shine without having to use a buffer.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 09:02 PM
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I haven't had time to clay bar the vette but last summer I clayed my Durango and what a difference. My Durango is a 98 and I never clayed it before. I bought the Zaino kit after reading about it years ago on here when I was a lurker. Wow is all I can say. You felt the paint there were all kinds of particles, afterwards it was as smooth as glass. I can't wait to get a really nice day to clay the vette.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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Well after reading I'm def. going to try it. I think I may do may DD cavalier first tho. The paint is pretty decent. I would like a "test" run first

My buddy is really **** about his car, he has OCD but doesn't take his meds so when he starts cleaning look out, puts me to shame.

So is it best to strip down the wax then clay bar then wax again? Or should I just clay then wax after or is waxing afterward not needed? I always thought waxing was the last thing to do.

My buddy waxed his after the clay treatment.

Never since being a member here have I seen or been in the "car care" discussions. I realize now this should have been posted there.

Last edited by Snakecharmer383; Apr 12, 2009 at 10:17 PM.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 12:04 AM
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Clay barred my '93 Ruby shortly after I bought it. All kinds of dirt came out of the paint. After multiple coats of Liquid Glass, my car looks like a rolling mirror.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Snakecharmer383
Well after reading I'm def. going to try it

So is it best to strip down the wax then clay bar then wax again? Or should I just clay then wax after or is waxing afterward not needed? I always thought waxing was the last thing to do.
Wash it with Dawn dish washing liquid first. I'd use the original Dawn. Then clay then wax again

Last edited by Weav's Vet; Apr 13, 2009 at 02:05 AM.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 05:10 AM
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Default wash, clay, wash, then polish...

This is (was) my black 95 after a Dawn washing to get the old wax off, clay bared, washed to get clay and soap residue off, then the "Zaino treatment". Whaddyathink?





The "Z" (black shows off the shine better tho). The Zaino "Clear Seal" is dynamite, with a little Z8 it is brilliant! But, results depends on preparation, and clay bar (after a Dawn wash) is the basis for the best shine you can get on your paint.

FWIW, I got the same "wet tar" look on my black Vette with the Mothers kit. But, wax on a black car gets soft when the sun beats down on it, and the wax becomes a "glue trap" for dust. And, if someone touches the paint, their fingerprint actually engraves the wax - making it very hard to maintain. Wax...tooooo much maintenance for my liking. The polish (Zaino) turns out to be waaaay more maintenance free, IMO.



P.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:56 AM
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I used the Mothers Clay Bar kit last weekend. Man, what a difference..
(No pics yet!)
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 08:25 AM
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I have used clay bar kits from Griot's Garage and Mothers, both work really well. You will be surprised at how well it works on you paint and glass.
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