I cry uncle
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From: Overland Park Kansas
I pulled the timing chain cover yesterday and then made damn sure it was at top dead center when I put things together.
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From: Overland Park Kansas
Only thing I could even think it may be now is the Vatt but I believe you have checked that, what about the fuel filter have you changed that? Check your fuses too, I had one once that was burned up but you couldnt see it or it looked good to me anyway. Damn I was sure it was a coil problem. Have you replaced the ICM? And if you did ,did you put the gel stuff or ky jelly kinda stuff on the back of it? If not try that its only a few bucks. i hate for you to keep throwing money at this thing but and look arounf for bare wires that might be shodting it out on the black. You have fire, you have air and i think i rem you saying you have plenty of fuel pressure so I am all out of ideas, you know you may be checking this stuff and it seems fine but when you out it together it may not be working fine maybe the coil is shirting out ,I was sure it was th coil , damn it....theres a black wire there close to the coil that was kinda bare on mine when I had all the same problems check the wiring out.Now I wont be able to sleep thinking of this car damn it!
Will the vatts let the car turn over??
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
The grease is a preventive thing.
Well, at this point I would say just go back and start all over with the basics. Confirm fuel is getting to the cylinders and the spark is correct and getting there at the right time. Also as mentioned check out all of the grounds. They are impertive for these cars to run correctly. Did you ever check the CKP sensor (crank positioning sensor)? You said earlier "you were getting after it" a little bit when this happened. What is a little bit? You didn't float the valves did you?
Well, at this point I would say just go back and start all over with the basics. Confirm fuel is getting to the cylinders and the spark is correct and getting there at the right time. Also as mentioned check out all of the grounds. They are impertive for these cars to run correctly. Did you ever check the CKP sensor (crank positioning sensor)? You said earlier "you were getting after it" a little bit when this happened. What is a little bit? You didn't float the valves did you?
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From: Overland Park Kansas
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
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Pretty sure it won't since this happened to me.
When you put the key in the ignition, does the "security" light stay on?(don't know if the Firebird has a security light or not). It usually blinks until you start the car. In mine it stayed on and no crank, but everything else(A/C,radio,windows etc) worked.
Most later LT1's I've seen have a "remanufactured" PCM tag attached. Especially 95-96. Mine does, but that's how I bought the car.
Another member here had a PCM go bad in his '95, he was still able to drive, but only in "limp home" mode. He ended up with one of those remanufactured PCM's.
When you put the key in the ignition, does the "security" light stay on?(don't know if the Firebird has a security light or not). It usually blinks until you start the car. In mine it stayed on and no crank, but everything else(A/C,radio,windows etc) worked.
Most later LT1's I've seen have a "remanufactured" PCM tag attached. Especially 95-96. Mine does, but that's how I bought the car.
Another member here had a PCM go bad in his '95, he was still able to drive, but only in "limp home" mode. He ended up with one of those remanufactured PCM's.
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
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Also with all the front end work, did you break the coolant temperature sensor? I don't think anyone else has mentioned that.
It's very easy to hit with a belt tool while removing the belt.
It's very easy to hit with a belt tool while removing the belt.
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
Elite Torch Red Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 57,805
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
Cental/South NJ Events Coordinator
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
CI-II Burnout & Drag Champ
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
Of course at this point(without going back and reading the entire 90 reply thread), we still don't know why the car quit in the first place, only that you can't get it started after all this work.
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From: Overland Park Kansas
So far it sounds like low comperssion.
By the way, thanks to the guy who said 90 lbs of compression was enough and that I didn't need to check all of them. I could have figured this out a week ago when I only check the number 1 and 2 and they had 90 lbs.
If I would have checked them all I would have found nothitng in the number 3.
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From: Overland Park Kansas
An update
Just to update everyone, the lt1 motor was not starting due to no compression in the #3 cilinder.
The reason for the lack of compression is because a big piece of the the piston was stuck in the valve. Total piston failure and it made a hell of a mess. The rest of the pistons are in just about as bad of shape so this is the plan.
We pulled the motor yesterday and today we are taking it to a well known race shop in the area. They will be boaring, honing and decking the motor block along with new forged pistons, new crank, new cam, new rods, and so on and so on for a total rebuil of the short block. All the parts will be top of the line and race ready.
This shop will be dynoing the motor in the shop before we pick it up 10 days from now and put it back into the car.
Total cost $2,100 bucks if they don't find any other problems.
Wish us luck and I'll keep you all updated.
The reason for the lack of compression is because a big piece of the the piston was stuck in the valve. Total piston failure and it made a hell of a mess. The rest of the pistons are in just about as bad of shape so this is the plan.
We pulled the motor yesterday and today we are taking it to a well known race shop in the area. They will be boaring, honing and decking the motor block along with new forged pistons, new crank, new cam, new rods, and so on and so on for a total rebuil of the short block. All the parts will be top of the line and race ready.
This shop will be dynoing the motor in the shop before we pick it up 10 days from now and put it back into the car.
Total cost $2,100 bucks if they don't find any other problems.
Wish us luck and I'll keep you all updated.
Safety Car
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From: Sandhills of North Carolina
Ouch! It did let go didn't it. Oh well, sounds like you will be better off in the long run and with a more dependable engine. Good luck and let us know the numbers when it's all back together. 
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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
A $12 compression gauge would have found your problem in under 10 minutes.
When an engine won't start, use a timing light to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Use a fuel pressure gauge to see if you have the correct fuel pressure and it holds. Use a noid light to see if the injectors are being pulsed. If you have all of that and it won't start, then spray starter fluid into the intake, if it runs on starter fluid, then the injectors are not working even though they are being pulsed. If starter spray won't make the engine start, then pull the spark plugs and measure compression on EVERY cylinder.
I would have offered this info, but I came to this thread late. Good luck.
P.S. A defective alternator will not prevent an engine from starting if the battery is charged enough to crank the engine normally.
When an engine won't start, use a timing light to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Use a fuel pressure gauge to see if you have the correct fuel pressure and it holds. Use a noid light to see if the injectors are being pulsed. If you have all of that and it won't start, then spray starter fluid into the intake, if it runs on starter fluid, then the injectors are not working even though they are being pulsed. If starter spray won't make the engine start, then pull the spark plugs and measure compression on EVERY cylinder.
I would have offered this info, but I came to this thread late. Good luck.
P.S. A defective alternator will not prevent an engine from starting if the battery is charged enough to crank the engine normally.
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From: Overland Park Kansas
A $12 compression gauge would have found your problem in under 10 minutes.
When an engine won't start, use a timing light to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Use a fuel pressure gauge to see if you have the correct fuel pressure and it holds. Use a noid light to see if the injectors are being pulsed. If you have all of that and it won't start, then spray starter fluid into the intake, if it runs on starter fluid, then the injectors are not working even though they are being pulsed. If starter spray won't make the engine start, then pull the spark plugs and measure compression on EVERY cylinder.
I would have offered this info, but I came to this thread late. Good luck.
P.S. A defective alternator will not prevent an engine from starting if the battery is charged enough to crank the engine normally.
When an engine won't start, use a timing light to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Use a fuel pressure gauge to see if you have the correct fuel pressure and it holds. Use a noid light to see if the injectors are being pulsed. If you have all of that and it won't start, then spray starter fluid into the intake, if it runs on starter fluid, then the injectors are not working even though they are being pulsed. If starter spray won't make the engine start, then pull the spark plugs and measure compression on EVERY cylinder.
I would have offered this info, but I came to this thread late. Good luck.
P.S. A defective alternator will not prevent an engine from starting if the battery is charged enough to crank the engine normally.
I did do everything you spoke of, but I got some bad advice about cylinder pressure and checking every spark plug.
The motor is out of the car and being boared and honed as we speak. Wish us luck.
