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Installing Rear Brakes

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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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Default Installing Rear Brakes

Do I need to re screw the caliber pistons in to the caliber to have room for the new pads to go in, or are the hand brake shoes inside the rotor like the older models. Thanks
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 06:54 PM
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All you should have to do is to push the piston back in by hand or use a clamp (there are clamps made for this purpose). If you use a clamp, you should first suck out some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to keep it from overflowing.

The later C4's use the rear caliper for the parking brake. You will have to remove the end of the parking brake cable from the arm to remove the caliper.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply!! I will give it a try this weekend. I work out of town during the week and was curious about it today if it was something I can do this weekend. I have never had to replace the rear pads until now. Thanks again.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser
All you should have to do is to push the piston back in by hand or use a clamp (there are clamps made for this purpose). If you use a clamp, you should first suck out some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to keep it from overflowing.

The later C4's use the rear caliper for the parking brake. You will have to remove the end of the parking brake cable from the arm to remove the caliper.
Use a large "C" clamp...$7.50 at Walmart.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by runner140*
Use a large "C" clamp...$7.50 at Walmart.
I agree about the "C" clamp and I always use the old pad to pull the piston back in place. Hey might as well get as much use out of them as I can.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 07:54 PM
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Default rear pad replacement

hi, if your rear pads were very well used and not much pad left, you may have to re-set your parking brake. if not adjusted correctly, you may get rear brake drag and overheat the new pads and parts. the factory service manual will have this proceedure in section 5. i just got finished with this proceedure. it threw me for a loop because the picture in the service manual is printed in reverse. the adjusting paw that needs to be released is at the rear of the inner brake mechanism, not the front paw. see ya
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by runner140*
Use a large "C" clamp...$7.50 at Walmart.
more torque than the tool....
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by runner140*
Use a large "C" clamp...$7.50 at Walmart.
I found out with all the stuff I had I did not have a “C” clamp for the rear caliper. My biggest was a half inch short.

Harbor freight has the big clamps also but don’t know the price. The size I bought was a 6 inch. Seems to work fine.

Last edited by pcolt94; Sep 3, 2009 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 01:33 PM
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this will **** off the "pro's" but.....if you are doing it right...then forgo the C-clamp BS.....take a larger screwdriver and pry it in between the shoe and the rotor and force the caliper open prior to taking anything loose

.......But you may damage the surface to the pad/Rotor.......

Are you not replacing the Pad???

Are you not going to have the Rotors resurfaced??

Other than waiting the hour to have my Rotors turned, I most likely to could do pad replacements in about 20 minutes....including the time it takes to jack up the car and remove the wheel.

Sorry, I just hate that C-clamp and dread seeing someone pull that thing out....
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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Thanks for everyone's input I will be changing the pads tomorrow while I am home. Thanks Guys
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