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Bleeding Brake tips?

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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 09:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx7
a lot of it is rubber particles from the boots on the caliper's that prevent leakage around the piston. often times if a seal is bad,moisure can enter the caliper and rust can form. this is where you will see a lot of contamination. some i can assume is from the rubber lines themselves breaking down internally.
How does all that make its way to the reservoirs?
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #22  
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not too sure but i assume over normal driving the fluid circulates and collects in the master cylinder's resivour.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx7
this is an excellent point made that was overlooked. no reason to push old scummy fluid through the lines. removing the fluid from the master cylinder's resivours and cleaning them with a dry cloth is a very good idea. a lot of the fluid in there is already contaminated and will contaminate the new fluid if it isn't properly flushed,
Most all the above suggestions and methods work well. My only addition is that I use the speed bleeders and do both a front and rear at the same time, one side at a time. My reason is, opening both the front and rear together lets the master cylinder make a full stroke without having to fight against the pressure exerted from the other (front or rear) cylinder being closed. There are two pistons in the master cyl. One for the front and one for the rear. When one wheel is open and the other is closed you are fighting against the closed side and have to compress a spring in the master cyl. Just be careful not to mash too hard when you come to the end of the stroke. You don't want to damage the seals in the master cyl. The pedal will stroke a little farther and easier too. Just be sure to keep that reservoir filled with fresh fluid, it will go down fast!
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 10:33 PM
  #24  
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Huh?

Originally Posted by mazdaverx7
not too sure but i assume over normal driving the fluid circulates and collects in the master cylinder's resivour.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 03:44 AM
  #25  
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i was just thinking that the contaminated particles in the fluid will circulate through the fluid, not the fluid itself. no proofreading leads to unclear responses
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 04:06 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Klondike
Most all the above suggestions and methods work well. My only addition is that I use the speed bleeders and do both a front and rear at the same time, one side at a time. My reason is, opening both the front and rear together lets the master cylinder make a full stroke without having to fight against the pressure exerted from the other (front or rear) cylinder being closed. There are two pistons in the master cyl. One for the front and one for the rear. When one wheel is open and the other is closed you are fighting against the closed side and have to compress a spring in the master cyl. Just be careful not to mash too hard when you come to the end of the stroke. You don't want to damage the seals in the master cyl. The pedal will stroke a little farther and easier too. Just be sure to keep that reservoir filled with fresh fluid, it will go down fast!
That does sound like a good idea. All you have to do is jack the rear and pull the rear tires. Set those up, then set the fronts up. As you can do the fronts at the same time as the rear since you don't have to jack or remove anything to do the front.

I should have done that when I gravity bled my brakes. I thought you had to go in order, so I did the RR then LR, then I did the RF and after a bit, I went ahead and cracked open the LF.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 03:10 PM
  #27  
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One word. Pressure bleeders.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 08:08 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by PLRX
Great video.

I take it if you're using speed bleeders you don't need the grease on the bleeder screws.

Also, I don't think the drum brake he was bleeding was on the same car as the master cylinder he filled - just an observation.

Last edited by jrzvette; Sep 16, 2009 at 08:11 PM.
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