Bleeding Brake tips?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 496
Likes: 4
From: Cordova TN
Bleeding Brake tips?
Yes, I am here again doing my weekend project of changing out all of the pads and rotors. The rears were frozen on and those calipers bracket bolts were a bi......but the search function worked great to help.
The question I have is on the bleeding I have never done this before but since the fluid was black I wanted to bleed all of them down with new fluid. I have been using a hand pump that seems to suck it out fairly well and I have tightened the bleeder screw while plenty of suction was still at the screw. Is this an ok way to properly bleed the system? Also the pass side screw was a royal pain to loosen and now it seems to leak a little bit. Is that normal or should I replace the screw or put something on the threads to seal it?
Thanks again guys. I'm tired and still have driver's front left for tomorrow.
The question I have is on the bleeding I have never done this before but since the fluid was black I wanted to bleed all of them down with new fluid. I have been using a hand pump that seems to suck it out fairly well and I have tightened the bleeder screw while plenty of suction was still at the screw. Is this an ok way to properly bleed the system? Also the pass side screw was a royal pain to loosen and now it seems to leak a little bit. Is that normal or should I replace the screw or put something on the threads to seal it?
Thanks again guys. I'm tired and still have driver's front left for tomorrow.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,383
Likes: 4
You can improve the operation of the vacuum pump, and in particular the one screw that leaks, by wrapping the threads with teflon tape.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,340
Likes: 1,148
From: Vermilion OH
i always bleed in a specific order. i bleed at the following points until i have a firm pedal at each point: RR, LR, RF, LF. starting at the farthest point away from the master cylinder has always worked well for me and has ensured that no air was left in any of the lines.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 3
From: Tampa Fl
I just bleen mine yesturday,just to get new fluid in the lines.I tried to do a gravity bleed, that was a joke.I was the only one home,I did the drivers side by using a broom handle to depress the pedel when I loosened the bleeder.I had to wait for my daugter to get home to do the other 3.
I do it the cheap way loose screw while someone depresses the pedal,tighten bleeder before pedal is released,repeat till clean fluid comes thru.
I do it the cheap way loose screw while someone depresses the pedal,tighten bleeder before pedal is released,repeat till clean fluid comes thru.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 496
Likes: 4
From: Cordova TN
I just bleen mine yesturday,just to get new fluid in the lines.I tried to do a gravity bleed, that was a joke.I was the only one home,I did the drivers side by using a broom handle to depress the pedel when I loosened the bleeder.I had to wait for my daugter to get home to do the other 3.
I do it the cheap way loose screw while someone depresses the pedal,tighten bleeder before pedal is released,repeat till clean fluid comes thru.
I do it the cheap way loose screw while someone depresses the pedal,tighten bleeder before pedal is released,repeat till clean fluid comes thru.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 378
From: Cincinnati Ohio
i always bleed in a specific order. i bleed at the following points until i have a firm pedal at each point: RR, LR, RF, LF. starting at the farthest point away from the master cylinder has always worked well for me and has ensured that no air was left in any of the lines.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
Likes: 26
From: El Paso Texas
Just make sure you keep the master cylinder full. And as posted above, do in the order of furthest to closest.A vacuum pump works well too, just a bit messier. Start by siphoning everything out of the master cylinder and refilling with clean fluid. Then flush all the lines.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,413
Likes: 9
From: The Old Dominion
I've notice using vacuum that some air will come around the threads of the bleeder valve. So I usually do the bulk of the bleeding that way, then let it gravity bleed a little bit to push out any air around the threads.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 80
From: Burleson Texas
i always bleed in a specific order. i bleed at the following points until i have a firm pedal at each point: RR, LR, RF, LF. starting at the farthest point away from the master cylinder has always worked well for me and has ensured that no air was left in any of the lines.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Erie PA
Advanced Auto free rental
I used a vacum bleeder that I got from Advanced Auto. Works great for when you don't have a helper. Most auto parts stores have a free tool loaner program. You just have to leave a deposit ($100), when you return the tool you will get your deposit back, well worth it.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
I just bleen mine yesturday,just to get new fluid in the lines.I tried to do a gravity bleed, that was a joke.I was the only one home,I did the drivers side by using a broom handle to depress the pedel when I loosened the bleeder.I had to wait for my daugter to get home to do the other 3.
I do it the cheap way loose screw while someone depresses the pedal,tighten bleeder before pedal is released,repeat till clean fluid comes thru.
I do it the cheap way loose screw while someone depresses the pedal,tighten bleeder before pedal is released,repeat till clean fluid comes thru.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 805
Likes: 3
From: Waco TX
What I would do is get a 3-4 foot long piece of tubing like what comes with bleeder kits. You can get this at Home Depot I think.
Get you a glass jar and put some fresh fluid in it. Hook one one end of the tube to the bleeder screw and the other end in the jar keeping it submerged in the fresh fluid. Then, losen the bleeder screw and pump the brake and keep the MS resevoir full.
Doing this way, you won't get any air sucked back into the system.
Get you a glass jar and put some fresh fluid in it. Hook one one end of the tube to the bleeder screw and the other end in the jar keeping it submerged in the fresh fluid. Then, losen the bleeder screw and pump the brake and keep the MS resevoir full.
Doing this way, you won't get any air sucked back into the system.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
What I would do is get a 3-4 foot long piece of tubing like what comes with bleeder kits. You can get this at Home Depot I think.
Get you a glass jar and put some fresh fluid in it. Hook one one end of the tube to the bleeder screw and the other end in the jar keeping it submerged in the fresh fluid. Then, losen the bleeder screw and pump the brake and keep the MS resevoir full.
Doing this way, you won't get any air sucked back into the system.
Get you a glass jar and put some fresh fluid in it. Hook one one end of the tube to the bleeder screw and the other end in the jar keeping it submerged in the fresh fluid. Then, losen the bleeder screw and pump the brake and keep the MS resevoir full.
Doing this way, you won't get any air sucked back into the system.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,340
Likes: 1,148
From: Vermilion OH
this is an excellent point made that was overlooked. no reason to push old scummy fluid through the lines. removing the fluid from the master cylinder's resivours and cleaning them with a dry cloth is a very good idea. a lot of the fluid in there is already contaminated and will contaminate the new fluid if it isn't properly flushed,
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
this is an excellent point made that was overlooked. no reason to push old scummy fluid through the lines. removing the fluid from the master cylinder's resivours and cleaning them with a dry cloth is a very good idea. a lot of the fluid in there is already contaminated and will contaminate the new fluid if it isn't properly flushed,
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,340
Likes: 1,148
From: Vermilion OH
a lot of it is rubber particles from the boots on the caliper's that prevent leakage around the piston. often times if a seal is bad,moisure can enter the caliper and rust can form. this is where you will see a lot of contamination. some i can assume is from the rubber lines themselves breaking down internally.