1996 Corvette Programmer
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
1996 Corvette Programmer
Looking for information: 96 C4
My A/C-Heather Vents only blow air from top and bottom.
No air coming out of the front vents.
Anyone have or had this problem.
I replaced check valve on engine, and good suction at
the check valve posts.
All signs are leading to the programmer.
Any advice?
Thanks,
Castel24
My A/C-Heather Vents only blow air from top and bottom.
No air coming out of the front vents.
Anyone have or had this problem.
I replaced check valve on engine, and good suction at
the check valve posts.
All signs are leading to the programmer.
Any advice?
Thanks,
Castel24
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,772
Likes: 177
From: Rolla Missouri
2021 C4 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10 thru '25
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,202
Likes: 117
From: San Antonio Texas
Had a similar problem and followed the above recommendations and it's fixed. Switches the air as fast as the buttons are pushed. Had to take out the driver seat, lay on my back with my head under the dash and my feet in the hatch area, but I did it myself.
Instructor
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
I had same problem. Had Indy experts sell me all kiknds of expensive electronics, still blowing out defrost . Took to dealership and they filled vac system with smoke and found rotten hose. couple bucks for new hose, lots a bucks for dealership expertise, but well worth a working A/C .
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
Likes: 298
From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
Read and print post #5. You'll have to pull the drivers seat, pull the kick panel and the problem is on the fire wall....up from the gas pedal.
The programmer/controller is round, 1 1/4" in dia. and has five vacuum hoses attached to the face. The problem is the connection nipples have collasped from heat and age and have to be trimmed back.
There is very little room to work and most has to be done with one hand.
Get back to us when you get started for additional help/info.
It looks like this (not round?):
The programmer/controller is round, 1 1/4" in dia. and has five vacuum hoses attached to the face. The problem is the connection nipples have collasped from heat and age and have to be trimmed back.
There is very little room to work and most has to be done with one hand.
Get back to us when you get started for additional help/info.
It looks like this (not round?):
Last edited by runner140*; Oct 30, 2009 at 08:17 AM. Reason: Picture
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Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,202
Likes: 117
From: San Antonio Texas
Take a look at the above post. Those little nipples that the guy is touching with the screw driver is what everybody is talking about. With that little box out from under the dash (the hard part), it is easy to work with on your work table. I replaced all those little things with tiny pieces of brass tubing from a local hobby shop, and tipped them with some of that plastic tubing that hospitals use for the oxygen breathing tubes. Same length & diameter stuff as original but won't collapse under vacuum. There isn't any flow in there, just a vacuum pull on some diaphragms to open and close door flaps. Inside that little box are some solenoids that open and close some valves to direct vacuum to those tubes. I opened and cleaned those with alcohol and re-lubed them with a little smear of Vaseline. May not need to go that deep, but I'm kind of **** about stuff I never want to work on ever again.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 1
From: Woodland CA
For those that have done this, is it important to replace the removed vacuum line in the on the same nipple where it was removed? If so, do you mark them with tape so they go back in the same spot?
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Thanks for the info.
I agree, it would be great to get it out, and work on the bench.
I see it under the dash, how hard is it to get out. I do see one nut/bolt
and a wire harness attached, does that come into play?
Any advice on the removal?
Thanks,
castel24@aol.com
I agree, it would be great to get it out, and work on the bench.
I see it under the dash, how hard is it to get out. I do see one nut/bolt
and a wire harness attached, does that come into play?
Any advice on the removal?
Thanks,
castel24@aol.com
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,202
Likes: 117
From: San Antonio Texas
Thanks for the info.
I agree, it would be great to get it out, and work on the bench.
I see it under the dash, how hard is it to get out. I do see one nut/bolt
and a wire harness attached, does that come into play?
Any advice on the removal?
Thanks,
castel24@aol.com
I agree, it would be great to get it out, and work on the bench.
I see it under the dash, how hard is it to get out. I do see one nut/bolt
and a wire harness attached, does that come into play?
Any advice on the removal?
Thanks,
castel24@aol.com
Look back at post #5 here and click on the link. Once there scroll down to post #13 and it shows more detail about that little vacuum control box. It makes a lot more sense once you get the Vac & electrical harnesses off and the box out of there where you can see what your doing.
Last edited by Klondike; Oct 30, 2009 at 05:29 PM. Reason: add info for link
Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 10
From: Apple Valley MN
The vacuum harness is held on by a ridiculous little push-nut. I used a small blade screwdriver to pry the push-nut out a bit until I could grab it with a needle-nose pliers, and then twisted it until it broke. I used a small nylock nut to put it back together.
