Step 1 - looks like a Sewer Plant

 

Ew!

 

Say, I've got a set I just pulled off my car. Can you do them next?

 

These babies are going look new when I'm done

 

what, exactly, are you doing?

 

 

Step # 2

Starting to look much better prior to prep work..

Camera phone went dead before I could shoot the front of the rotor.

 

It looks good so far. I was looking at mine yesterday and thought the rust was noticeable. I might try to clean mine up in the spring. What are you using electrolysis?
Joe

 

i'm definatly interested in this process. will be looking forward to the procedure.

 

I am interested in the process & outcome, thanks for posting it.

 

 

Here she is, quick coat of oil for protection and I'll put her in a bag for storage.

Looks alittle different huh?

 

what the heck is step one?

 

Yes, Electrolysis.

 

That came out very nice, I'll have to try that. Thanks for posting!

 

I actually changed my setup from the original picture.

I used a tall kitchen garbage can and some big pieces of Rebar as my Anode - worked great!

I use sodium carbonate to be safe and I use 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon. The process puts off small amounts of hydrogen which is combustible so I do it outside in a well ventilated area. Also I don't want the Anode and the rotor to touch, I want them at least a few inches apart from one another. IF I mess with any of the setup, I always want to make sure its UNPLUGGED from the wall first. The more anodes I connect around the perimeter of the rotor, the better the results or I can just flip the rotor etc but its a longer process.

I also use latex gloves during the process and I wear a mask when using the Scotchbrite to finish the rotor. I only use a Steel Anode because Stainless Steel, galvanized and other materials will result in a toxic batch of water.

I use 3M type Scotch Bright Finishing Pad product #10144NA to finish off the job.

I chose not to paint them this time around, just protected them with oil.

If the current is too high and is taxing my battery charger, I check these items:

1. Increase the distance between the anode and the rotor being cleaned.
2. Reduce the amount of anode in the vat. Lift it out slightly.
3. Reduce the operating voltage or increase the current range of the battery charger setting.

If I don't see an immediate reaction beginning in the vat when I plug in the battery charger, I check all of my connections carefully. It can be difficult to get a good electrical connection on a heavily rusted tool. This is where the ammeter on my battery charger comes in handy. I can tell at a glance if I have a good connection to the rotor. The bubbling action starts immediately after power is applied.

If the rotor in my vat appears to be eroding instead of de-rusting, I verify that I have the battery charger polarity correct. The rotor must always be connected to the "negative" black terminal.

**Caution** Hydrogen gas reacts explosively with oxygen (in the presence of heat) to produce water vapor. I always shut down the power before adjusting/removing the electrodes.

If I am using electrolysis to remove rust...and have a considerable broth of bubbles...I am very cautious. That broth is not the place I discard a glowing cigarette ember, lit match...or any other spark. Be warned...!!

 

What kind of oil did you use to protect them. I may try to strip my this weekend and get them stored for future usage.

 

I can't remember what i use, but its guaranteed to protect for 1 year.
Just search for a spray that is anti-corrosion etc.

I then put them in a big Ziplock Bag.

You probably don't even need to spray them as long as you don't get a hole in the bag.

I just apply the oil on the rotor as extra protection.

 

i've always used WD40 when storing bare metal parts. i just coat the part(s) in WD40 and put them into a bag, whether is be a ziplock type bag or a garbage bag (for the heavy stuff).

 

I used to use WD40 too and it worked fine. However, 50% of WD40 is mineral spirits so now I use other brands.