Who can tell me what size hose I need if I want to replace the pulsator with a piece of fuel hose.

 

It's 3/8" Make sure you get " fuel injector hose" Rated for 100 PSI not fuel hose tht's only rate 50 PSI

 

I bought a new fuel pump and it came with the hose to replace the pulsator.The directions said to get rid of the thing.

 

Thanks that's what I thought but wanted to make sure. I didn't know about the 100 PSI though, thanks!!!


I thought they may be the case as well, but just in case I wanted to be prepared.

I ordered a Racetronics, complete system, from Thunder Racing on 12/21/09 and it still hasn't came in. Everytime I call them, twice, they tell me tomorrow or at the most 3 days. I think I am just going to town and buy a new pump and sock and just get it done.

I'll either send the thing back if it ever gets here or sell it here on the forum. I really wanted those new bolts that came with the kit though



Thanks guys, I think I am off to Oreilly.

 

i didn't take my pulsator out...i just left the thing in there! i was told that you could straight pipe it with some hose. it has never given me any trouble leaving it in.

 

They have a tendency to split, and when that happens, the car stops running. This usually happens a month after a new fuel pump goes in, just so you get to enjoy the aggravation of taking it apart again.

I too looked at the Racetronics setup a while back. The new bolts for the tank are pricey by themselves making this a real bargain. Let us know how that works out.

 

I don't think the hose is 3/8. more like 7/16".
I just did this 3 months ago, and i'm sure it's not that big.
I took out the pulsator, and my fuel pressure stays up over 30# all night till next morning.

 

I used 5/16" on my 1989, and have about 10 and 1/2" left from the foot long piece of fuel injection hose i used.

 

If it ever comes in, pm me> I might buy it before I go down to the parts store and buy an oem one. I have a 93.

 

What does the Pulsator do? And why would you replace it with a piece of hose instead of with a new Pulsator?

 

Supposed to absorb fuel pump "pulsations", thus reducing noise. I've never been able to tell a difference one way or the other.

Durability. FI hose will outlive 3 pulsators. And while I'm sure you can order a pulsator at the parts counter, what does a 3" piece of FI hose cost?

 

Good to know. I guess if I ever have to pull the pump out. I'll just put a piece of hose in place of the Pulsator. What type of clamps do you use? Regular hose clamps or something like stainless steel?

 

I just used regular and double clamped it. 5 years, so far, so good.

 

Actually it turned out to be 5/16.

Will do.

Okay,

I replaced the pump and found out the pulsator was no longer on the car, if it ever was. The FSM talks about either the coupling hose or the pulsator so I don't know if they all came with a pulsator or not.

it didn't fix my problem like I was hoping but it was worth a shot since I didn't mind replacing the pump anyway and I didn't know if it had ever been replaced. (PO never kept a file or if he did he didn't give it to me)

One foot of submersible 5/16 hose cost me 26 bucks. So the Racetronics setup is a real bargain, but I won't be using it. If anyone wants to make me an offer, if it ever comes in you may do so. (I will PM Foxx to see if he wants it)

Now what it did fix was my initial fuel pressure. I did have only 10Lb at prime and fell like a rock. I now have 50 and falls like a rock. So I am losing pressure either at the injectors or the reg I would say.

The car runs like a champ if you give it just slight pedal, but will not idle at all. Any ideas?

I may just take it to the dealer and let then diagnose it for me. I am about sick of screwing with it.

I also realized last night my registration runs out at the end of the month. I tried to reregister it on line last night and realized my inspection was 5 days past the 60 day limit. I parked it in early Dec and just totally forgot about the registration until yesterday.

One after the other, and on it goes.

 

Let's take the regulator out of the equations....Pinch off the return line with vice grips. Run the key on prime test and tell me what it does. I'm betting your pressure rises and holds. Now when you replaced the pump, you made absolutely certain everything inside the tank was clamped and tight, correct? No obstructions in the pressure line to the rail (filter, crimped line, etc?)

I don't think an injector(s) is leaking to that degree or it would be running pig rich and you would be getting black smoke. Pull your plugs and look for a fuel fouled plug or two. If you have a leaking injector, it will be obvious.

You can test them as well....just need an assistant. Leave your return line pinched, have your helper either key on or energize terminal G on the ALDL, and as soon as the rail primes, pinch off the pressure line and have your helper immediately cut power to the pump (do not deadhead the pump). With both your pressure and return lines pinched, there is only one place left for the fuel to go....if your pressure bleeds down then, it's going into the intake.

NOOOOOOOOOOO!!! Fuel system diagnosis is simple....there really isn't much to it. We'll get it.....

 

Oh....and the will not idle thing....If it's still there when we resolve the fuel system issue, two things come immediately to mind. First, hook up a vacuum gauge and tell me how many inches of vacuum you have at idle. The second is your IAC. The IAC can be removed and cleaned. If you have no vacuum leaks, and the IAC is functioning normally, then we need to test the EGR. You have a Factory Service Manual, correct?

Just out of curiosity, how many miles are on this engine?

 

it has just over 61K. I did try the fuel line/return line pinch test. The only place I could find to pinch the damn things were at the fuel tank. I know there is supposed to be a flexible portion to these lines closer to the engine bay but I couldn't Find the dang things. When I pinched the lines at the tank, according to my wife, nothing happened at any location.

I have zero idle but runs like a champ with a little throttle. I did take the plugs out on the drivers side of the engine and all the plugs were carbon fouled but no visible signs of fuel. I didn't try the pass side because I got tired of screwing with it for the day.

All lines at the [pump were good. At least through a visual inspection. All are tightly clamp.

I actually think I may have two issues going on here.

 

Have you pulled the reg vacuum line and checked for signs of fuel ?
The pinch tests should isolate the problem area. I pinch at the tank, using some tubing over my needle nose vise grips. If they are not pinched off 99.9%, your going to have a problem.

 

I did check for fuel at the reg and didn't notice any.

I am going to try and pinch the lines again and see what happens. Trying to make my wife understand what I'm looking for, at the gauge, is like trying trying to turn this thing into a C6. But I will try a different method.

The pressure drops like a rock and I don't see how that could be injectors because it would smoke like a freight train at start up if that was the case. I still think it is the reg or maybe they gave me a faulty pump.

It won't idle but if I give it just the slightest throttle it is ok and runs like a champ, like I said.

One more try and off to the dealer it goes.

 

OK, you need to pinch off the return line somewhere closer to the rail. On my 84, the two solid fuel lines run under the passenger side of the car and come up into the engine compartment near the front of the frame rail, where two rubber lines connect to the solid lines that go to the intake. I'm not sure on your TPI if they're in the same spot, but look for them. This is where you want to pinch off the line. Doing it at the tank leaves a loooonnng line before you get a solid liquid lock.

If you don't have any smoke or fuel fouled plugs, it's unlikely you have a substantial injector leak. The pressure is dropping off either through the regulator, or back through a faulty check valve in the fuel pump. I suspect the former. We need to get it out of the equation and see what happens.