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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 12:11 PM
  #21  
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I knew somehow I would get a bunch of don't use WD 40. But I am brave and did it anyway. I could have reminded everyone to lube it and let it go. I will in the future.

There are many reasons I don't use jelled lubricants but the spray lithium sounds promising as I may try that.

So hey as long as you lubed it, that is all that matters.

And I will be reminding everyone to use that zip tie method as a back up, in a couple months.

And hey, Pssssst. The manuals always recommend a product they want you to purchase from them!!

This was mainly intended for those new owners who haven't experienced this yet. Not you vette veterans as I know you probably do this on a regular basis. And I feel confident the new guys at least have a can of WD 40 laying around.

But thanks for telling everyone the best stuff to use. I appreciate your feedback and help.

Last edited by RetiredSFC 97; Feb 2, 2010 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 12:26 PM
  #22  
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Thanks for the reminder on that because the passenger side on my car is a little sticky. I'll go out and spray it with WD-40 now because I have that on hand and clean and re-lubricate with the good stuff later.

See I'm one of those guys that have WD-40 setting around and I would guess just about everyone does. Some kind of lube is better than nothing but I'm glad there are guys out there that have more on the ball than I do and can point me in the right direction.

Last edited by mrmtrtrnd; Feb 2, 2010 at 12:32 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 09:04 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by shakedown067
Just did my drivers side this morning before work. Unbolted the latch, cleaned, then applied lithium grease to the spring and pivot point. She's nice and happy now. Also drilled a hole to let the stinking water drain. Tomorrow morning...the passenger side.
Water collecting in those latch units has always perplexed me. I drilled a small hole (1/16 or 1/8") where I didn't think it would drain onto any of the electricals but have to keep reaming it out to keep it clear.
For many years it was only a problem on the driver's side but now the passenger side unit is collecting water. Tells me that there is a drain hole but it gets clogged with time.

Speaking of water, when my 94 is left out in the rain I get water under the carpet on the driver's side close to the firewall and towards the left of the footwell, not on the gas pedal/hump side. I check it periodically and if it's wet, I pull the carpet up and out from under the pedals & leave it that way until it dries. For convenience, I keep the carpet permanently pulled from underneath the speaker cover. It's invisible to anyone but me.
To anyone who leaves their car outside a lot, even with a good cover, check it.

Where does this water come in from?

Thanks, Rich
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 08:11 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Tribolet
WD-40? Gaaack! It was designed as a water displacement fluid (that's
what the WD stands for). It's a mediocre lubricant (esp after it dries up)
and nowhere near as good on rusty bolts as stuff that's made for rusty
bolts (I have a salt-water boat trailer that gets dunked 140 times a year,
I have a deep relationship with rusty bolts).

'87 Factory Service Manual specs engine oil on the pivots and spring anchor,
and "Chassis grease meeting requirements of GM-6031M (GM Part. No.
1052497)" on the release pawl.

That said, it's a good idea to lube it, and you've reminded me I should
lube mine as it's gotten a bit stiffer lately.
I posted this, mostly as a reaction against the suggestion to use WD-40
as a lubricant, which it ain't. So tonight I went out to do the lube job
I alluded to.

Mmmm, the "pivot" I guess is where the piece the cable
pulls on pivots. No problem, I can lube that from above.

"Spring anchor"? Can't see a spring, so can't see a spring anchor.
Probably needs a wrench to see it.

"Release pawl"? That must be the piece that grabs the hood, That I
can get some Lubriplate on.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 07:04 PM
  #25  
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If you have a Vert, it might not be a bad idea to do the rear deck latches and cables. Mine were dry.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 07:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ragni
Water collecting in those latch units has always perplexed me. I drilled a small hole (1/16 or 1/8") where I didn't think it would drain onto any of the electricals but have to keep reaming it out to keep it clear.
For many years it was only a problem on the driver's side but now the passenger side unit is collecting water. Tells me that there is a drain hole but it gets clogged with time.

Speaking of water, when my 94 is left out in the rain I get water under the carpet on the driver's side close to the firewall and towards the left of the footwell, not on the gas pedal/hump side. I check it periodically and if it's wet, I pull the carpet up and out from under the pedals & leave it that way until it dries. For convenience, I keep the carpet permanently pulled from underneath the speaker cover. It's invisible to anyone but me.
To anyone who leaves their car outside a lot, even with a good cover, check it.

Where does this water come in from?

Thanks, Rich
That is why something like WD 40 will work fine because it repells water.

This is not a thread about WD 40 but for those who wish to know here you go, for those who don't you may skip past this post

The long term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus get into crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away.[citation needed]

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, extricating stuck screws and bolts, and preventing rust are common usages. The product also may be useful in removing moisture.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 08:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RetiredSFC 97
I knew somehow I would get a bunch of don't use WD 40. But I am brave and did it anyway. I could have reminded everyone to lube it and let it go. I will in the future.

There are many reasons I don't use jelled lubricants but the spray lithium sounds promising as I may try that.

So hey as long as you lubed it, that is all that matters.

And I will be reminding everyone to use that zip tie method as a back up, in a couple months.

And hey, Pssssst. The manuals always recommend a product they want you to purchase from them!!

This was mainly intended for those new owners who haven't experienced this yet. Not you vette veterans as I know you probably do this on a regular basis. And I feel confident the new guys at least have a can of WD 40 laying around.

But thanks for telling everyone the best stuff to use. I appreciate your feedback and help.
what's the zip tie deal? got a link?
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 11:34 PM
  #28  
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what's the zip tie deal? got a link?

X2....

I looked under my hood, and was NOT able to see how I could install this "now obvious" needed feature of a backup opening system!

Thanks guys!
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #29  
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Might be good to use the WD40 to clean out old dried up lube then use the white lith
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 09:05 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
Might be good to use the WD40 to clean out old dried up lube then use the white lith


Use WD 40 to clean out all the moisture and rust, if any, then use a good lubricant.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 09:13 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by socalman
what's the zip tie deal? got a link?
Originally Posted by 94Ad Blue
what's the zip tie deal? got a link?

X2....

I looked under my hood, and was NOT able to see how I could install this "now obvious" needed feature of a backup opening system!

Thanks guys!
here is a link to a thread that shows it. It is an easy thing to do and may save you some frustration in the future.

Thanks to the OP for providing pictures of this.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-g...nt-forget.html

it shows how to make an emergency release with cable, but until a person does that they can use Zip ties, as is mentioned in the thread.

Last edited by RetiredSFC 97; Feb 7, 2010 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 11:09 AM
  #32  
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Hey RetiredSFC 97... any pics of the of where the clamshell locking mechanism that needs lubing is? I am one of those newbs that needs to do this and I am not sure where all this stuff is located. Thx!
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 11:19 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by olcrusty

Olcrusty
Hey OC, how you feeling?
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 11:21 AM
  #34  
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sorry didn' relize this was a older thread
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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Got it... THANKS!
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jon1all
Hey RetiredSFC 97... any pics of the of where the clamshell locking mechanism that needs lubing is? I am one of those newbs that needs to do this and I am not sure where all this stuff is located. Thx!
Yes. Go to this thread and where you see where he installed the cable look just above that and you will see a round hole with a locking mechanism in it. That is what needs lubed.

They are located on the out edge of the bay where the clam shell closes.

Look around your bay and you will find them.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-g...nt-forget.html
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 07:06 PM
  #37  
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Here is a thread I started quite a while ago with instructions and photo's for the emergency release cables.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-g...with-pics.html

The "zip" ties will work, but look sort of cheap IMO, and may not hold up over time.

Whatever you choose, by all means do something - as others over time have said, "it's not if you will need them, it's when".
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