When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What a nightmare. Been chasing a code 32 since last year. Changed the EGR, and EGR solenoid. All that was left was the temp. diagnostic switch. Wouldnt you know it, the tail that the switch plugs into is about 3 inches too short and I just couldnt get to it. Its behind the distributor, so guess what? Yes, the distributor had to come out. Not the cap, but the whole distributor. Then I had to wait for a new distributor shaft gasket. All this for a 5 minute job.
Anyway, I'm done with this code 32. Next time I'll just remove the check engine light bulb.
Thats what I was going to do. Cut,splice, solder, a little heat shrink tubing and I'm done. But the little tab on the connector was broken, so i couldnt.
Only good thing now is that I repaired the connector with some zip ties, holding it tight together. Whoever ends up with this car after me can have the ease of cutting and splicing another temp switch in if they have to.
Oh, btw, the temp switch has been discontinued. I ended up using one I got from a forum member
Are you sure a vacuum line isn't broken? In most cases, the 32 (Check Engine Light illumination) will only be during the time EGR is commanded; ie, cruise. In all other situations, the Light should be out. If that's all you're getting, it's usually a busted vacuum line and has nothing to do with the switch or the EGR valve. Check from the throttle body to the EGR solenoid and from the solenoid to the Charcoal Canister. It usually deterioates somewhere around there.
Are you sure a vacuum line isn't broken? In most cases, the 32 (Check Engine Light illumination) will only be during the time EGR is commanded; ie, cruise. In all other situations, the Light should be out. If that's all you're getting, it's usually a busted vacuum line and has nothing to do with the switch or the EGR valve. Check from the throttle body to the EGR solenoid and from the solenoid to the Charcoal Canister. It usually deterioates somewhere around there.
I checked the vacuum lines on top of the intake and they seem to be fine. Gonna have to check the one going to the charcoal canister though. Thanks
Are you sure a vacuum line isn't broken? In most cases, the 32 (Check Engine Light illumination) will only be during the time EGR is commanded; ie, cruise. In all other situations, the Light should be out. If that's all you're getting, it's usually a busted vacuum line and has nothing to do with the switch or the EGR valve. Check from the throttle body to the EGR solenoid and from the solenoid to the Charcoal Canister. It usually deterioates somewhere around there.
I had a code 32 on my Firebird many years ago. Had a shop replace the EGR and still got a code 32. Years later I look to find out the shop put in a "positive" EGR. I replaced it with the correct "negative" EGR valve and that fixed the problem. Though I think I might have gotten a code 32 once or twice since then. But at least its not like it was before by coming on every time I get on the interstate or highway.
The bulb is normally off, but if I drive at 60 MPH (aprox) without using too much the throttle then the bulb starts to light and the scanner shows the code 32. That's the reason because I think the temp. switch could be the reason
The EGR temp switch on my 89 connects at the top on the intake by the valve covers. I don't see how the distributor could be in the way.
I dont know about 89, but on a 86 the egr temp switch screws in on the egr tube which is located towards the rear of the pass. side valve cover. The tube goes over the valve cover. Thats not the hard part. The hard part is trying to snap in the connector end to the other connector which is hanging below the distributor
I dont know about 89, but on a 86 the egr temp switch screws in on the egr tube which is located towards the rear of the pass. side valve cover. The tube goes over the valve cover. Thats not the hard part. The hard part is trying to snap in the connector end to the other connector which is hanging below the distributor
Mine is the same. Other than the connecter connects to a wire on top of the intake above the valve cover.
I have a crack in my EGR tube, I have an 89 with the EGR temp switch screwed in the top of the tube. I got a replacement tube, but it doesn't have the screw in port for the temp switch. Can I use it and does something else with the switch??