96 LT 4

Anyone out there with alot of C4 engine removal experience? This project is seriously whooping my a@@. Although today i did make some progress- i dropped the exhaust and was able to remove the remaining tranny bolts. Any tips or helpful hints would be greatly appreciated. The world almost lost another C4- i was about to blow the damn thing up.

nypearson

Label and photograph everything including wires that will make the rebuild that much simpler, soak all mount nuts and bolts in advance they can be tough to break free. good luck and post pics.

96 LT 4

i did take a few pics- although not enough in my opinion. i did label everything. this is just turning out to be a much bigger job than i anticipated.

LD85

Put all nuts or bolts and brackets in zip lock bags and label the bags with a Sharpie.

You do not have to take the hood off


I recommend taking the engine out but leave the tranny

Gt the car up on jack-stand with at least 12 inches ground clearance, more is better, I use 4 ton stands and they get it up high enough to slide in and out under the car easily

BTW, I can take my engine out in @ 2 hours

The Green Rocket

If you don't already have one, you'll want one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TPI-L...-/270556156230

What kind of previous engine removal experience do you have? Honestly it should not be kicking your *** unless you have never removed an engine from a modern car. Pulling a C4 engine is easy compared to any V6 mini-van - at least the C4 has a fairly open engine compartment.

Do you have a good amount of working space? A clear two car garage is plenty, and it allows you to just shut the door when you have had enough wrenching for the day.

Thomas

96 LT 4

honestly i have no engine removal experience especially with corvettes. i removed one motor in my day and that was a chrysler lebaron. i am working under a carport. engine should be ready to come out but it still wants to bring the tranny with it for some reason- i dont get it.

LD85

manual or auto? Could be the top bell housing bolt

you can use a pry bar to separate the block from the BH if the engine is supported / hanging on the lift / chain

BAM92

Remove engine with bellhousing still attached. Alot easier. Leave tranny in car. I didn't remove hood or radiator fans. It is easier also to remove balancer but not hub, in order to allow motor go forward more before hitting power steering rack. The shaft in tranny is kinda long so you have to move motor further forward. I also removed motor mounts completely to give me more movement. Hope this helps.

96 LT 4

manual

The Green Rocket

I dig it when someone takes on an outsize project compared to their mechanical background - you are on a steep learning curve. Please note that removing an engine without knowing how it all fits together can break expensive parts and injure you. Are you doing this by yourself? I hope not.

Is your carport flat concrete, or bumpy uneven asphalt? Is it just for one car, or as wide as two cars? What kind of a hoist arrangement do you have? Happy hooker? Size/type of jackstands? Floorjack(s)?

You seriously need an experienced helper and a factory service manual.

The input shaft of your 6 speed transmission is still in the pilot bearing at the end of your crankshaft, the splines of the input shaft are still in the clutch disc hub. How are you supporting the transmission? Don't just leave the trans dangling, that would lead to an epic failure.

The number one thing you need is a helper with experience - this really isn't the kind of job that you can just learn as you go. There is too much danger with heavy parts going where they want once unbolted.

Thomas

96 LT 4

i knew i was in for a big job relating to my experience- but its not like i had much of a choice. carport is pretty flat, one car wide, i have a cherry picker- no happy hooker, craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack stands, and a duralast hydrauilic jack. ive tried to acquire some assistance but not working out so well. this is definetly a learning experience for me- which is why im writing in this blog.

aboatguy

My best advice to you is:



to pull the engine out as intact as you can... In my experience its quicker and easier to do the dissembly reassembly on the engine stand.


When you think you have all the coolant removed pull the knock sensors...

Have the vette pretty high on four jack stands.




If you don't remove it ensure you support your tranny (don't let it hang from the c beam (another floor jack or a jack stand will support it.

Ensure all the wiring and hoses are removed prior to lifting the engine.
There are lot of wires.....


Label, bag, tag everything you remove and take tons of pictures...


Remove the front tires and inner fender wells (quick to do and you gain space ....and don't have to reach in as far to work on car)


Don't remove more pieces than you have too..


Spend the money on a HAPPY HOOKER....they are cheap and worth the money even if you just pull and reinstall your engine once...


and the most important thing of all watch out for project creep....IE the might as wells and OH BUY THE WAYS are budget killers..


Good luck.


Pics are a collection from a couple of different engine removals .... Mike

96 LT 4

thank you so much for the pics and information. like i said i knew it was going to be a big job for me but i do know all the basics.

96 LT 4

does the happy hooker really make that much of a difference?

aboatguy

I have a couple of rollaways full of quality tools....and for working on a C4 the HAPPY HOOKER is probably the best 50 bucks I've spent......(for a tool)

96 LT 4

my problem is that i just bought the car- 2 weeks after owning it the engine went out on me. so i just bought another motor for it and now i am pretty much tapped on fundage. not to mention all the little odds and ends that ive acquired since. when i bought the car i had no jack stands, no hydraulic jack, not a very good selection of tools either- not to mention even a torque wrench- this car is killing me.

Bondami

Brother, I know this song and can sing it in 4 part harmony with you..

Do you have a Chiltons or haynes manual? if not grab one.. they are about 15 bucks at autozone or checker and while not as good as the Factory service manual they will do.. you have to imagine what this all looks like coming apart, and Thats easier with a book.

Good luck and if you need help post up some pics where we can see what you are facing and we can help ya thru it.

Marv02

We feel you'r pain mine started out as a $2000.00 fun project 3 months ago not no more
I have about $6000.00 into it so far and not half way done what I want to to it so far.

Now I remember why I have not owned a old car in a long time but it worth it it the long run.

I also one day going to put a new motor go though the drive line my self more cut up hands and dirty finger nails and draining the savings account you got to love it.

PLRX

I already explained this to you via PM this morning.

What type of engine did you buy? FYI the LT4 is OBDII

You need the FSM, basic tools, crane, 4-6 ton jack stands and a lot of cash. My LT4 project was over $7,000.

I got some 50/50 news for you. If this engine you bought is in the same shape your old engine you will need a third engine. If the engine is in good shape then, you are lucky.

96 LT 4

the engine is an LT1 remaned motor