C4 engine removal
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 242
Don't mean to detract from the OPs thread but I have a question that is related.
I'm looking at pulling the LT1 out of my C4 (ZF6 car) this winter for a cam swap. I'd like to leave the trans in the car and pull the bellhousing/engine as a unit. I imagine I need to have the car a good 12-16 inches off the ground for adequate access beneath, but what is the minimum ceiling height? My garage does not have that tall of a ceiling. My engine hoist would far exceed the garage ceiling at its maximum height. If I don't have much chain slack on the hoist what is the minimum height requirement?
I'm not sure of my exact garage ceiling height but for reference the most I could lift the car up and have the open hood clear the ceiling is probably about 14" max.
I'm looking at pulling the LT1 out of my C4 (ZF6 car) this winter for a cam swap. I'd like to leave the trans in the car and pull the bellhousing/engine as a unit. I imagine I need to have the car a good 12-16 inches off the ground for adequate access beneath, but what is the minimum ceiling height? My garage does not have that tall of a ceiling. My engine hoist would far exceed the garage ceiling at its maximum height. If I don't have much chain slack on the hoist what is the minimum height requirement?
I'm not sure of my exact garage ceiling height but for reference the most I could lift the car up and have the open hood clear the ceiling is probably about 14" max.
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Warwick R.I.
My best advice to you is:
to pull the engine out as intact as you can... In my experience its quicker and easier to do the dissembly reassembly on the engine stand.
When you think you have all the coolant removed pull the knock sensors...
Have the vette pretty high on four jack stands.
If you don't remove it ensure you support your tranny (don't let it hang from the c beam (another floor jack or a jack stand will support it.
Ensure all the wiring and hoses are removed prior to lifting the engine.
There are lot of wires.....
Label, bag, tag everything you remove and take tons of pictures...
Remove the front tires and inner fender wells (quick to do and you gain space ....and don't have to reach in as far to work on car)
Don't remove more pieces than you have too..
Spend the money on a HAPPY HOOKER....they are cheap and worth the money even if you just pull and reinstall your engine once...
and the most important thing of all watch out for project creep....IE the might as wells and OH BUY THE WAYS are budget killers..
Good luck.
Pics are a collection from a couple of different engine removals .... Mike
to pull the engine out as intact as you can... In my experience its quicker and easier to do the dissembly reassembly on the engine stand.
When you think you have all the coolant removed pull the knock sensors...
Have the vette pretty high on four jack stands.
If you don't remove it ensure you support your tranny (don't let it hang from the c beam (another floor jack or a jack stand will support it.
Ensure all the wiring and hoses are removed prior to lifting the engine.
There are lot of wires.....
Label, bag, tag everything you remove and take tons of pictures...
Remove the front tires and inner fender wells (quick to do and you gain space ....and don't have to reach in as far to work on car)
Don't remove more pieces than you have too..
Spend the money on a HAPPY HOOKER....they are cheap and worth the money even if you just pull and reinstall your engine once...
and the most important thing of all watch out for project creep....IE the might as wells and OH BUY THE WAYS are budget killers..
Good luck.
Pics are a collection from a couple of different engine removals .... Mike
Thanks;Bob
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Warwick R.I.
Looks like an automatic in your pic's. I'm doin the same but mines a six speed and it doesn't look like theres enough room to pull the motor foward off the trans. I'v done a lot of motor pulls but never on a vette.
Thanks;Bob
Thanks;Bob
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 195
From: folsom california
Sir, drop the wrench and step away from the car. 
It's time to take a break.
seriously I pulled my 96 engine awhile ago and I'm sure the right tools and a good place to work make all the difference, but I didn't have either, you can do it like I did.
first, understand that your car has a "pull type clutch" (huh ?). what that means is that the flywheel / clutch will not pull free from the bellhousing (like every other chevy ever built). The throwout bearing and clutch fork engage and are locked onto the pressure plate. You will have to either:
(one) pull the transmission and release the cluch fork by unscrewing the clutch fork ball from the bellhousing. This is a lot of extra trouble and if you do it this way be advised the clutch fork ball disengages from the bell housing by being screwed INTO the bellhousing (turned clockwise as you view it from the rear of the bellhousing); or,
(two) support the transmission on a jackstand, remove the four bolts holding the transmission to the bellhousing, remove the clutch slave cylinder from the bellhousing, and leave the bellhousing attached to the motor. The whole bellhousing / clutch / flywheel will now come out with the motor.
I left the hood attached and pulled my motor from the passenger side; I didn't have a lot of room to manuever the engine hoist, but surprisingly, it didn't take a whole lot of room either. I didn't use (or have) a "Happy Hooker", just a couple short lengths of chain attached to bolts screwed into the block.
I did strip as much off the egine as I could, and the final pull was basically the shortblock and bellhousing. I did remove the radiator and A/C condenser (there was no refrigerant thanks to a previous compressor failure). This made the final pull easy. Others say the engine can be pulled with the radiator in and you could try it that way first.
My only other advice is to mark and photograph EVERYTHING; and take your time and be patient; don't get too tired, too frustrated, or too discouraged. Lots of people on this forum have done this LOTS of times. And so can you. good luck
It's time to take a break.
seriously I pulled my 96 engine awhile ago and I'm sure the right tools and a good place to work make all the difference, but I didn't have either, you can do it like I did.
first, understand that your car has a "pull type clutch" (huh ?). what that means is that the flywheel / clutch will not pull free from the bellhousing (like every other chevy ever built). The throwout bearing and clutch fork engage and are locked onto the pressure plate. You will have to either:
(one) pull the transmission and release the cluch fork by unscrewing the clutch fork ball from the bellhousing. This is a lot of extra trouble and if you do it this way be advised the clutch fork ball disengages from the bell housing by being screwed INTO the bellhousing (turned clockwise as you view it from the rear of the bellhousing); or,
(two) support the transmission on a jackstand, remove the four bolts holding the transmission to the bellhousing, remove the clutch slave cylinder from the bellhousing, and leave the bellhousing attached to the motor. The whole bellhousing / clutch / flywheel will now come out with the motor.
I left the hood attached and pulled my motor from the passenger side; I didn't have a lot of room to manuever the engine hoist, but surprisingly, it didn't take a whole lot of room either. I didn't use (or have) a "Happy Hooker", just a couple short lengths of chain attached to bolts screwed into the block.
I did strip as much off the egine as I could, and the final pull was basically the shortblock and bellhousing. I did remove the radiator and A/C condenser (there was no refrigerant thanks to a previous compressor failure). This made the final pull easy. Others say the engine can be pulled with the radiator in and you could try it that way first.
My only other advice is to mark and photograph EVERYTHING; and take your time and be patient; don't get too tired, too frustrated, or too discouraged. Lots of people on this forum have done this LOTS of times. And so can you. good luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 195
From: folsom california
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
What are you like two? Maybe in your two years here, you might have learned the forum rules instead of getting all butt-hurt:
Team Owner
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From: Riverside County Southern California
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,270
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From: Chilliwack B.C.
If romer1993 had started a new thread, I'm pretty sure he would have had the usual 'Search is your friend' reply statement and probably a link to this thread! Cudos to romer1993 to search for something relevent and build on it even if it is an old thread!
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 7
From: Chewelah Wa
IBTL....We all know the best way is to throw all the parts unlabeled in cardboard boxes and wait 8 years until you put back together, whatever was not lost. You won't believe all the extra parts left over...future spares and weight reduction, double bonus!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City OK
St. Jude '10
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,758
Likes: 49
From: Houston Texas
Ah heeeal you sound so innocent..
I would like to offer you a link on behalf of the "personal attack" crew.
Here ya go..get a happy hooker
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...e-removal.html
Last edited by ch@0s; Apr 14, 2012 at 09:39 PM.