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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 04:53 PM
  #21  
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Before you start changing parts, you need some basic diagnosis. When the car dies, you should check for spark at a plug wire, preferably with an induction type timing light, or with a spare plug in one of the plug wires. If you get a good spark, put the plug wire back on and spray a small sniff of ether into the air intake and crank the engine. If it starts momentarily, you can assume a fuel delivery problem. These tests will head you in the right direction, several of the guesses on this thread could be correct, but IMO start with the basics.
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:30 PM
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Not a fuel issue. But after talking with these guys i thought the coil is the only thing . Remember i have electricity going to the coil but not coming out.So I'm hoping that's the problem, if it would have been the ICM there would not be electricity going to coil.
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by sailorsteve
Before you start changing parts, you need some basic diagnosis. When the car dies, you should check for spark at a plug wire, preferably with an induction type timing light, or with a spare plug in one of the plug wires. If you get a good spark, put the plug wire back on and spray a small sniff of ether into the air intake and crank the engine. If it starts momentarily, you can assume a fuel delivery problem. These tests will head you in the right direction, several of the guesses on this thread could be correct, but IMO start with the basics.
I had fuel gauge and tested the electrical system when it happened. Also had a scanner on it . Fuel was fine and electricity getting to coil and scanner didn't pick anything up . I just replaced the coil but its to late to go on a test drive. So, ill take it in the morning and let you know tomorrow.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 08:26 AM
  #24  
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I hope you found the problem. If not don't discount the fuel pump. I had a car that would just stop and not restart for a few minutes then would run again. Displayed no codes, drove me nuts. When it ran, the engine performed normally. Tested the fuel pressures, they were normal. Then noticed that when the fuel tank was near full the engine was more reliable than when below half. What I discovered was that when the fuel pump was cold it would pump enough fuel to operate the engine. As the pump warmed up to normal operating temperature the pump would loose the ability to pump enough fuel to operate the engine. When it cooled the pump was able to once again supply enough fuel. I was ready to trade that car, took weeks to find that problem.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #25  
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did you replace the wires from the opti to the connector on the passenger intake?
Run the engine in the dark and look for any electrical glow on the plug and coil wires?
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 01:16 PM
  #26  
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Well took it out this morning,but the same thing . Ran for about 6 miles and shut down. only this time didnt make it home.Now im at a lost.. I changed the ICM last month..
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 01:45 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kiddad
if it would have been the ICM there would not be electricity going to coil.
Can you define "electricity going to coil"? If you have
DC to the coil, you won't get a spark. You need a nice
square wave AC to fire the coil.


Chuck
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 06:24 PM
  #28  
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Well i was limited to a test light when i checked it . Is there anyway to eliminate the optispark system???
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 06:35 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kiddad
Well i was limited to a test light when i checked it . Is there anyway to eliminate the optispark system???
LS Swap
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 06:35 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by kiddad
Well took it out this morning,but the same thing . Ran for about 6 miles and shut down. only this time didnt make it home.Now im at a lost.. I changed the ICM last month..
Originally Posted by Larry/car
I hope you found the problem. If not don't discount the fuel pump. I had a car that would just stop and not restart for a few minutes then would run again. Displayed no codes, drove me nuts. When it ran, the engine performed normally. Tested the fuel pressures, they were normal. Then noticed that when the fuel tank was near full the engine was more reliable than when below half. What I discovered was that when the fuel pump was cold it would pump enough fuel to operate the engine. As the pump warmed up to normal operating temperature the pump would loose the ability to pump enough fuel to operate the engine. When it cooled the pump was able to once again supply enough fuel. I was ready to trade that car, took weeks to find that problem.
I'm going to double check that tomorrow . did u have a fuel gauge on it? and what kind of pressure did you get ?
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 06:37 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by kiddad
Well i was limited to a test light when i checked it . Is there anyway to eliminate the optispark system???
Like I mentioned earlier, your symptoms are not at all like a failing opti, but are dead on for a failing ICM. You can check the wiring harness from the opti to the engine harness connection under the passenger side fuel rail cover like Jim suggested. Personally I would take the ICM off and have it heat cycled and checked at an Autozone. Be sure they heat it up good when testing.

ps-key on, car off fuel pressure shouldbe about 43psi, engine running 38-39 psi.

Last edited by aminnich; Dec 10, 2010 at 07:18 PM.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 07:08 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Tribolet
Can you define "electricity going to coil"? If you have
DC to the coil, you won't get a spark. You need a nice
square wave AC to fire the coil.


Chuck
Will check in the morning ill let you know. Going to recheck everything again.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:29 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Larry/car
If no codes I'm guessing is not electrical. Sounds like a fuel problem, make sure the fuel line is open. How much fuel is in the tank, could be a fuel pump issue.
Ill be checking that today also .
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by aminnich
Like I mentioned earlier, your symptoms are not at all like a failing opti, but are dead on for a failing ICM. You can check the wiring harness from the opti to the engine harness connection under the passenger side fuel rail cover like Jim suggested. Personally I would take the ICM off and have it heat cycled and checked at an Autozone. Be sure they heat it up good when testing.

ps-key on, car off fuel pressure shouldbe about 43psi, engine running 38-39 psi.
Thanks for the info i'll check that today.
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 08:46 AM
  #35  
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When I had my fuel pump issue, I only checked it in the garage when the systems were cold. The problem didn't show up until the fuel pump warmed up to operating temperature, I think it is a vane type pump, when the housing expanded it lost the ability to pump. What gave me the idea that the fuel pump might be the problem was when the fuel tank was full the engine didn't stall. I finally parked the car on a steep ramp, with the fuel tank lower than normal, the engine exhibited all the signs of fuel starvation. I replaced the pump, problem solved. This troubleshooting took weeks to solve, I really was ready to trade the car.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 08:22 AM
  #36  
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kiddad; How are you making out with your problem?
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #37  
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Just throwing this out there, but possible VATS issue?
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #38  
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Did you find the problem yet?

See the following post on my car in the tech/performance area for testing link to check this out:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ay-arrrgh.html
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 10:47 PM
  #39  
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My 92 was doing the same thing about a year ago and it was the icm, dont know if thats your problem though. You might want to have it checked out. When it gets hot and if the grease is dried up, it will quit and start again when it cools.
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