quick question
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
quick question
car sputters while im driving at constant rpm , for example im driving at about 2800 rpm and then it drops all of a sudden to around 1000 , and if i step on the gas more it levels out , what can this be due to?? i am putting out a code26 faulty quad driver moduel code, and the ses light comes on at the same time the fans kick on. what can it be??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 7,999
Likes: 14
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
I'll give you the best advice ever:
Get thee a factory service manual - not a Haynes, not a chilton but an honest Helms FSM
Then follow the trouble shooting tree for your code.
READ each and every post you can find about an LT1
Get thee a factory service manual - not a Haynes, not a chilton but an honest Helms FSM
Then follow the trouble shooting tree for your code.
READ each and every post you can find about an LT1
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,629
Likes: 28
From: FL
Code 26 is for quad driver module circuit #1. it does not mean the quad driver module has failed, but if it has you need a new ECM. That QDM circuit #1 controls EVAP purge and EGR solenoids as well as the AIR pump.
Both solenoids are common failure items, they are located under the fuel rail covers one on each side of the intake manifold, a quick test would be to check them with an ohmmeter across the two terminals, if either one tests "open" or infinite resistance it is bad.
Beyond that you will need to troubleshoot the circuit using the flow chart in the FSM as jaa1992 suggested, good luck.
Last edited by toptechx6; Dec 21, 2010 at 04:49 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Code 26 is for quad driver module circuit #1. it does not mean the quad driver module has failed, but if it has you need a new ECM. That QDM circuit #1 controls EVAP purge and EGR solenoids as well as the AIR pump.
Both solenoids are common failure items, they are located under the fuel rail covers one on each side of the intake manifold, a quick test would be to check them with an ohmmeter across the two terminals, if either one tests "open" or infinite resistance it is bad.
Beyond that you will need to troubleshoot the circuit using the flow chart in the FSM as jaa1992 suggested, good luck.
i just might as well replace the evap and egr system , due to age hopefully that takes care of it
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,629
Likes: 28
From: FL
You may get lucky by replacing parts, but I am more comfortable testing and replacing parts that I know are bad using the Factory Service Manual as a guide.
The FSM may seem expensive, but it will often pay for itself the first time it is used on a problem such as yours. Again my sincere wishes for a successful repair whichever method you choose to employ, please post your results so others can benefit from your experience.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 8
From: Westerly RI
If replacing old parts makes you feel better about the car I won't argue, it is your money. That would not be my approach to repairing your issue. I tried to emphasize that fault codes indicate a problem in the "CIRCUIT" which includes the wiring as well as the components in question. Also note that my earlier post mentions that DTC 26 can also be caused by AIR pump components or the ECM so the "shotgun" approach here could get expensive.
You may get lucky by replacing parts, but I am more comfortable testing and replacing parts that I know are bad using the Factory Service Manual as a guide.
The FSM may seem expensive, but it will often pay for itself the first time it is used on a problem such as yours. Again my sincere wishes for a successful repair whichever method you choose to employ, please post your results so others can benefit from your experience.
You may get lucky by replacing parts, but I am more comfortable testing and replacing parts that I know are bad using the Factory Service Manual as a guide.
The FSM may seem expensive, but it will often pay for itself the first time it is used on a problem such as yours. Again my sincere wishes for a successful repair whichever method you choose to employ, please post your results so others can benefit from your experience.
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