When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
IIRC, you start the car by giving it slight throttle, let it run for ten seconds and then just turn it off while holding the throttle in place.
Don't order the TPS until you clean the IAC to determine that's the cause.
Please, unless you just want to throw parts at it. I doubt the TPS is your problem. That's why the car will run with you giving it throttle. For lack of a better way of saying it, the TPS already knows where the throttle is and bypasses the IAC, as it's no longer needed.
You need the IAC for idle only. Hope this makes sense.
yes it makes sense thanks,ill do that,thanks again
Hey guys. Just out of curiosity, i've had a similar(ish) problem with my '86. Although, from cold start after holding my foot on the accelerator for about a minute, the car will 'take it' from me (revs climb by itself), and then it holds idle fine, and I drive off as normal.
Sound like an IAC problem for me?
When I first got stuck (car randomly died in traffic after driving out of a bumpy driveway) I wound up the stopper on the throttle to make it hold about 7-800 rpm at idle, otherwise it would just stall.
Kind of hard to explain, maybe one day i'll create a thread and make some videos of the problem. Any advice appreciated, cheers
Would I be escorted out of the C4 Forum if I said the car is doing exactly what it can be expected to do in it's PRESENT condition? The CSI adds fuel during cold starts and maintains a rich condition until a given heat level is reached, which is kinda quick, think choke on a carb. By deleting the CSI the ECM has no actual way to enrichen ( is that a word?) the mixture though it thinks it has. The driver overcomes this by opening the throttle, fooling the TPS into thinking the engine needs more fuel for higher rpm/power level. ECM adds fuel, enrichens (there's that word again) and the car starts. In later years, with no CSI the ECM, sensing a cold start adds additional fuel through the injectors without opening the throttle. Certainly cleaning and adjusting the TPS and IAC are good but I question if that alone will solve the problem. When I wired a 165 ECM into my 85 I went through several years of chip programming. Ended up with the ARAP bin from an 89. No CSI programming but cold starts are instantaneous.
Hey guys. Just out of curiosity, i've had a similar(ish) problem with my '86. Although, from cold start after holding my foot on the accelerator for about a minute, the car will 'take it' from me (revs climb by itself), and then it holds idle fine, and I drive off as normal.
Sound like an IAC problem for me?
When I first got stuck (car randomly died in traffic after driving out of a bumpy driveway) I wound up the stopper on the throttle to make it hold about 7-800 rpm at idle, otherwise it would just stall.
Kind of hard to explain, maybe one day i'll create a thread and make some videos of the problem. Any advice appreciated, cheers
When mine first started going south it did the same thing. I could hold the throttle for a spell and it would eventually take off on it's own. From working itself loose I would guess.
The IAC on these things are problematic at times. They will cause you to stall at stops and have difficulty starting without opening up the air supply.
The IAC provides the needed air supply to the car when the throttle is off. If the IAC isn't opening it won't provide air.
Always clean the IAC as a first maintenance item when this happens, because it's a free check and will let you know if that's the issue, in most cases.
When you clean it, it still may not totally solve the issue but you will know if it improves the idle. I read the entire internet on the IAC when I had the problem and I actually had two issues going on at the same time so it was a nightmare determining I had an IAC issue.
Take out the IAC and look at the hookups if you buy a new one. There are two different styles and the parts store gave me the wrong one at first. Well actually the boys in Mexico packaged it wrong.
Would I be escorted out of the C4 Forum if I said the car is doing exactly what it can be expected to do in it's PRESENT condition? The CSI adds fuel during cold starts and maintains a rich condition until a given heat level is reached, which is kinda quick, think choke on a carb. By deleting the CSI the ECM has no actual way to enrichen ( is that a word?) the mixture though it thinks it has. The driver overcomes this by opening the throttle, fooling the TPS into thinking the engine needs more fuel for higher rpm/power level. ECM adds fuel, enrichens (there's that word again) and the car starts. In later years, with no CSI the ECM, sensing a cold start adds additional fuel through the injectors without opening the throttle. Certainly cleaning and adjusting the TPS and IAC are good but I question if that alone will solve the problem. When I wired a 165 ECM into my 85 I went through several years of chip programming. Ended up with the ARAP bin from an 89. No CSI programming but cold starts are instantaneous.
Possible, but I would clean the IAC first to eliminate that. More times than not it's an IAC issue if the car stalls at idle but drives fine otherwise.
Possible, but I would clean the IAC first to eliminate that. More times than not it's an IAC issue if the car stalls at idle but drives fine otherwise.
If his was simple idle issue I would agree but his is a "no start". IAC may be a part of the problem but with the throttle closed he is in a lean condition with the CSI inop and he tries to start. I wonder if he has an idle problem after the engine warms some, say to the point it goes into closed loop.
When mine first started going south it did the same thing. I could hold the throttle for a spell and it would eventually take off on it's own. From working itself loose I would guess.
The IAC on these things are problematic at times. They will cause you to stall at stops and have difficulty starting without opening up the air supply.
The IAC provides the needed air supply to the car when the throttle is off. If the IAC isn't opening it won't provide air.
Always clean the IAC as a first maintenance item when this happens, because it's a free check and will let you know if that's the issue, in most cases.
When you clean it, it still may not totally solve the issue but you will know if it improves the idle. I read the entire internet on the IAC when I had the problem and I actually had two issues going on at the same time so it was a nightmare determining I had an IAC issue.
Take out the IAC and look at the hookups if you buy a new one. There are two different styles and the parts store gave me the wrong one at first. Well actually the boys in Mexico packaged it wrong.
Thanks for the info! Will look into cleaning it when i've got some time on my hands. Got a couple of other things I need to attend to first with other cars here.
easy. sounds like you need new plugs. My truck did the same thing. ill let you in on a little trick i just pulled the spark plugs out looked at the plugs and found the one that was black (this means your running rich) and i sanded down the black stuff and poured some oil in the spark plug hole andd it that fixed that
easy. sounds like you need new plugs. My truck did the same thing. ill let you in on a little trick i just pulled the spark plugs out looked at the plugs and found the one that was black (this means your running rich) and i sanded down the black stuff and poured some oil in the spark plug hole andd it that fixed that
OMFG, now I can honestly say I've heard everything