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Looking for some VATS help.

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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 03:14 PM
  #1  
vanillagorilla75's Avatar
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Default Looking for some VATS help.

Hi everyone, I've been lurking on here for a long time but I think this is my first post. I have searched for alot of info and here and this is where I am. I have an 89 that sat for about 6 months after my daughter was born. The car had a rear seal on the transmission that was bad. I replaced it and the car hasn't started since. My daughter is three now and I am still working on this problem. Don't have the time I used to, lol. At first the car would not even crank. Battery has been disconnected for awhile so I have no codes at all. Ignition turns on, I have bypassed the starter relay so it cranks now. It did not before. I have installed resistors in the VATS wiring for the key, and I have installed a Baker Electronix Module to eliminate the passkey module. I still do not get any power to the fuel pump or a pulse to the injectors. I can jump the fuel relay wire coming out of the ecm, and it will energize and pump up the system to about 42psi. I have spark and the car will run on starter fluid. I have replaced the ECM, spark control module, and fuel pump. I have checked and double checked the fuses and fusible links and all appear to be working and not blown. The fusible likes ohm out fine and I get at least 12- 13 volts coming out of them. My injectors ohm out to between 16.1 and 16.4 for all 8. I have had VATS turned off on the prom. I do have a FSM for it and have tried I think almost everything. Does anyone have any other ideas before I have to just remove the TPI system and either carb it or install aftermarket EFI. Would rather keep the TPI but this is getting rediculous. I will be grateful for any assistance you can give me.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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Forgot to mention, I have checked out the neutral safety switch as well and it is working properly.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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The ignition module sends a reference signal to ECM, if the ECM doesn't see it, it will not fire injectors.
It's the purple/white wire, part of the 4 wire connector at dizzy. FSM say's it is 1.3 volts with engine running. Hopefully cranking will yield the same info, for testing.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 03:40 PM
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I'll check it out, thanks.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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when you were playing with resistors did you wait like 4 minutes between resistor changes? "vats sleep mode"
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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I did wait, but now that I have the prom not even looking for the vats signal, it should start with no resistors in place I think. Thanks for the help and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. Does anyone know if the other theft deterent system could be causing this? I do not have an aftermarket alarm, but the stock system that works with the key. I have tried locking and unlocking the doors but nothing has helped.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by vanillagorilla75
Does anyone know if the other theft deterent system could be causing this?
No
Like agent 86 said above, you appear to be missing the injector pulse from the ECM dictated by the ref signal from the dist

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...&subtitle=test
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Old May 1, 2011 | 06:42 PM
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Alright, I checked the coil and pick up coil. Pick up coil ohmed at 815ohms between connectors and infinte to ground. Coil was good as well. Spin the distributor and I get 1.2 volts ac between the connectors on the pick up coil as well. Replaced pick up coil and capacitor while dizzy was out, just because the plastic connectors looked to be falling apart and breaking. Rechecked everything and all looks to be working fine. I also checked the purple and white wire coming out of it and going to the ecm from the dizzy and I get 1.2 volts while cranking. Still cranks and runs on starter fluid but no injector pulses or fuel pressure/ fuel pump does not come on. I have a scanner and checked for codes just from turning the car on and cranking it, but I do not get any. Any ideas from ya'll out there? I am thinking of trying another ecm. Am I right in thinking that even if the passkey module is completely fried, I should be able to start the car with vats turned off on the prom, key wire has resistors, starter relay bypassed, and vats simulator module in place? I don't really want to replace the passkey module for $350 bucks if I don't have to. Seems like it should be completely removed by this time. Thanks for any help you can throw my way and sorry post is so long. Just trying to get you all the information I can.
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Old May 1, 2011 | 07:48 PM
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The first thing I would do is get the vats back to stock including the ECM. These things seldom fail and if they do easy to repair. Makes things much more difficult to diansose or repair the way it is. That being said do you have fire at the plugs? and have you put a noid light on the injectors to see if they are getting what they need.

If you get a service manual and follow the diagrams to the ECM and out to see what you are suppose to have where. Check your inputs first being that you changed a few of them.

Also can you ba a little more clear on the order of how things happened? I take it that the car was fine, then sat for a little while. Then you ran it and the trans seal was leaking and you replaced it. then it would not start so you started messing with the vatts? if this is not correct let us know the events.
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Old May 1, 2011 | 09:45 PM
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Well feeling kinda dumb right now. Spent so long working on this replacing things and finally found a damaged wire in the harness. It is past one of the fusible links behind the battery. Well at least I know I have a bunch of new stuff in it and a bunch of spares if something fails. Got her running and can't wait to get her all buttoned back up for a cruise. Thanks guys for all your help.
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Old May 1, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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I had major problems with the vats system. What i finally did was send out my prom and had it-re-flashed with the vats disabled, i never had starting issue again.
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Old May 1, 2011 | 11:11 PM
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I've had that done. I honestly can't say this was a VATS issue now, but I know I should not ever have a VATS issue in the future. It all really worked out for the best, I know alot more about the car than I did before and it does actually run better with all the new parts and cleaned grounds. Its all good, just wished I had checked farther back on the harness earlier. Live and learn.
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Old May 1, 2011 | 11:39 PM
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Glad you got it going. The wiring gremlins can be quite a challenge and pretty frustrating when you realize the solution is actually pretty simple. My Dad used to always tell me to look for the simple things first. But this is not always easy to do. Hope you are able to cruise soon!
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