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Old May 18, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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1984 c4 all stock I have owened it for 6 yrs 72K mi. when I first got her the rad. fans worked when eng. was running the stock relay and conecter were junk I rewired it using chep relays and my own ckt. 2 yrs ago the fan quit and I replaced with a auto zone fan moter last summer fan quit same prob. relays burned up so I put a amp clamp on it when fan comes on it draws 30 amps goes down to 15 amps so is this to much draw? Also brk. lights work some times hit the brks. 10 times and lights only come on 5 times bad switch I would think how bad is switch to R&R And best place to b uy one
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Old May 19, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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15 amps for a running fan sounds pretty high to me. I would expect the initial draw to be higher than the running draw, but not double and not 30 amps.

I've never looked at the brake pedal switch on the Corvette, but if you can get your head and arms down in there (I'd remove the seat first), it should be right behind the arm that the brake pedal is on. Usually not that hard or expensive to replace, but it is a Corvette, lol. Looks like from a quick search that they run from $12 to $20+ depending on where you buy it. Most auto parts stores should be able to get you one.
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Old May 19, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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The fan motor on my 87 draws 24 amps when it is running. The rule of thumb for contact ratings on relays is double the running current. If you don't use a relay that has a contact rating in excess of 24 amps, then you can expect a short relay life. Same goes for the size wire going to the fan motor.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jfb
The fan motor on my 87 draws 24 amps when it is running. The rule of thumb for contact ratings on relays is double the running current. If you don't use a relay that has a contact rating in excess of 24 amps, then you can expect a short relay life. Same goes for the size wire going to the fan motor.
Yes, and placing a 500 to 1k pF capacitor across the contacts (observe polarity when using electrolytic cap) will go a long way to quench the arching as the relay opens and closes - the primary cause of the point deterioration (like the cap we used to see mounted to the mechanical points in the distributors of 60s and older cars - only this cap is / has to be bigger due to the current draw.)

Just a thought.

P.
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