My center armrest, {console lid} has come apart. the plastic plate is sound, but the rubber cover is pulling off and warping.

Do any of you know where to either buy a replacement or to get a custom leather replacement made?

I've searched all over. All the upholstery shops I've talked to locally say it can.t be redone, because there is nothing to attach to. what have you all done. thanks

 

I replaced mine from www.zip-corvette.com for $150. Includes the plastic, cushion and wiring for the lamp.

 

I ordered some closed cell foam from that auction site and built it up on the plastic lid and then put the vinyl cover back on and the used hot glue gun to attach the edges.

As long as your vinyl cover is fine just takes time trimming the closed cell foam for a tight fit.

 

Just take the lid off, remove the inner plastic liner and glue the edges down with an epoxy glue using masking tape wrapped around the lid as a clamp.

When the glue dries, all the vinyl edges will be tuck in tight like new!

 

How about a leather cushion over it? I love mine. I think it was about fitty dolluz

 

I'd suggest you try to repair yours before you buy a new one. If the repair turns out to be satisfactory, you've saved yourself some $. If not, you're no worse off than you are now, and you can just pony up the $ for a new one (they are expensive).

The console compartment lid on my '94 had deteriorated in the typical manner -- the adhesive had failed at the hinged edge, and the cover had begun to come loose. This caused the cover to bind against the console base as the lid was raised. This is a very common problem with these lids, because they aren't stapled along this one edge. Here's how I repaired mine:

1. I removed the entire lid assembly from the console so that I could work with it on the workbench.

2. I disassembled the lid assembly so that the hinges and structural elements were set aside, and I was working only with the plastic shell, foam padding and soft cover.

3. I gently pulled back the loose edge, and gently brushed out the loose bits of crumbled foam padding underneath. I then cleaned the surfaces to be bonded with Isopropyl Alcohol (note that there are two grades of Isopropyl available at pharmacies -- get the more pure grade, which is typically 91% and will leave less residue behind).

4. I wrapped the cover up with clear plastic cling wrap (the stuff that's commonly used in the kitchen for wrapping leftover food, etc), using the wrap to pull the stretched-out-of-shape material at the loose edge back into shape. I used care to keep the cling wrap stretched as smoothly and evenly across the lid as possible, so that it applied even pressure, and left no creases in the cover material -- applying only as much clamping pressure as was required to pull everything back to its original shape and contours without pulling it too tight. I left the thing wrapped up overnight.

5. I removed the cling wrap the next day. The cover material had returned pretty well to its original shape and contours, which, I'm convinced, made the remainder of the job much easier, and helped to achieve a better end result.

6. I carefully re-bonded the loose edge. There are many adhesives available that might be suitable for this task. I used MonkeySnot (3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, which is available at nearly any decent auto parts store). If used properly, this stuff grips like stink. I've been using it for 30 years with great results. To apply the stuff, I squeezed out a pool of adhesive onto a piece of scrap cardboard, and used a small throwaway acid brush to transfer controlled amounts of adhesive to the target areas, working the adhesive down into the loose/separating foam padding to the extent possible.

7. Before the adhesive set, I wrapped the lid up again in cling wrap, just as I'd done the previous evening. Once again, the cling wrap proved to be a valuable tool. By applying just the right amount of "pull" while wrapping the thing, I was able to pull the loose edge of the cover back to almost exactly where it had been when new, while the adhesive cured. The transparency of the cling wrap made it easy to monitor and adjust the clamping action applied as I was wrapping it. I left it wrapped up overnight again.

8. The next day, I unwrapped the lid, reassembled the thing, and mounted it back on the console.

I'm very pleased with the result. I think it looks more than satisfactory, and the lid now moves freely as it should, with no more binding along the hinges as it is raised. Prior to the repair, I couldn't raise the lid to more than around a 45 degree angle because it was binding up at the hinges. It works like brand new, now.

If you are in a cold climate, I'd suggest you do this in the house where the material can remain warm while you're working with it, otherwise it will be stiffer and harder to work with, and the results may suffer as a result. When you apply the MonkeySnot, take care to make SURE you don't get the stuff where you don't want it. MonkeySnot is as stringy as melted cheese on top of a hot pizza, and it can easily end up in places where you don't want it to be. Use masking tape, etc, to protect surfaces as required if you have doubts about how well you can control this stuff. Follow the label instructions on the MonkeySnot with respect to application/cure, etc.

I've since done the same repair on my LT4 car, with similarly good results.

Live well,

SJW

 

ZIP Corvette parts @ $130. Check it out:


www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/StyleMasterDetails.aspx?pid={1c6ed3c5-d0b9-4a7d-8d25-51bb66957d97}&gid={f4806a4d-5a09-4124-9763-83770786c6c2}&GroupName=Console+Door&pna me=84-89+Center+Console+Door&Referer=&Alias=&p tct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&

 

I don't know what part of the country you live in, but i bought a replacement for my 96 console door at Corvettes at Carlise (PA). I think it was around $125 or so. Went home removed the old one, connected the light and done. Your time is worth something.
One thing. when/if you buy one, make sure the "finish" is the same. some "aftermarket" stuff does not have the same finish (matte finish) to match interior.

 

I had a local upholstry guy recover mine with red vinyl vs original vacuum-molded stuff. He provided the vinyl, foam, and used a power stapler to tuck/attach it. He charged me $20. That was on top of the $100 he charged to overstuff/install my new seat covers...

It was a bargain!


Also...I dyed the door panels from lt grey to the black/red combo you see.

 

I think the two contributors on DIY are good. FWIW, I guarantee another thread has covered this topic earlier this year. Great pics were there too.

 

I tried the fix listed above, to the letter, but it ended up re-separating. I just ordered a replacement from Willcox - their eBay store has it for $114. They are friendly to deal with if you give them a call.

 

Yeah, I Epoxied my old one and clamped wood strips on to hold it until glue dried. It worked, but the edges were very hard and lumpy. I kept it for about a year and then swapped it out for a new replacement part.