Recommend brakes?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 509
Likes: 8
From: Livonia Michigan
Recommend brakes?
My brakes are pulling to the left when I brake real hard. Original Calipers and hoses. Lots of pad left, no groves in rotors. Car has 164k miles 
hopefully they are not original rotors. Alignment is good and I replaced the bushings, tie rods and ball joints about 4k miles ago.
I don't do Auto-cross, just drive around town and maybe to a car show or to work. Would like to do front and rear calipers, rotors and hoses and pads. Can someone recommend a kit? Would like to stay under $700.
How are the brake bleeding kits? I remember as a teenager helping my brother-in-law bleed his brakes...until I pushed down too hard and gave him a face full of brake fluid.
hopefully they are not original rotors. Alignment is good and I replaced the bushings, tie rods and ball joints about 4k miles ago.I don't do Auto-cross, just drive around town and maybe to a car show or to work. Would like to do front and rear calipers, rotors and hoses and pads. Can someone recommend a kit? Would like to stay under $700.
How are the brake bleeding kits? I remember as a teenager helping my brother-in-law bleed his brakes...until I pushed down too hard and gave him a face full of brake fluid.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 10
From: Manteca Calif
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: Charleston WV
My advice would be to purchase caliper for the front right. You need to check brake pad width outside and also on the inside to figure out if the right front is lazy. If you are handy, it is easy to find repair kits for the calipers. If you are lazy, just get loaded calipers.
I would keep the rotors, maybe sand them (not necessarily turn them). GM does not recommend turning rotors.
In my case, I bought old stock Bendix rotors made in Canada/US just because all rotors you buy are made in China now. I prefer Bendix pads, but if the price is right and you can live with them, Friction Master pads made by Morse (OH) is good too. For my 89, I bought Morse pads for $10 for the front, even though I also have a set of Bendix pads ($40 on close out).
The Performance Friction pads need a bit to warm up.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...arcode=1041242
I would keep the rotors, maybe sand them (not necessarily turn them). GM does not recommend turning rotors.
In my case, I bought old stock Bendix rotors made in Canada/US just because all rotors you buy are made in China now. I prefer Bendix pads, but if the price is right and you can live with them, Friction Master pads made by Morse (OH) is good too. For my 89, I bought Morse pads for $10 for the front, even though I also have a set of Bendix pads ($40 on close out).
The Performance Friction pads need a bit to warm up.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...arcode=1041242
My brakes are pulling to the left when I brake real hard. Original Calipers and hoses. Lots of pad left, no groves in rotors. Car has 164k miles hopefully they are not original rotors. Alignment is good and I replaced the bushings, tie rods and ball joints about 4k miles ago.
I don't do Auto-cross, just drive around town and maybe to a car show or to work. Would like to do front and rear calipers, rotors and hoses and pads. Can someone recommend a kit? Would like to stay under $700.
How are the brake bleeding kits? I remember as a teenager helping my brother-in-law bleed his brakes...until I pushed down too hard and gave him a face full of brake fluid.
hopefully they are not original rotors. Alignment is good and I replaced the bushings, tie rods and ball joints about 4k miles ago.I don't do Auto-cross, just drive around town and maybe to a car show or to work. Would like to do front and rear calipers, rotors and hoses and pads. Can someone recommend a kit? Would like to stay under $700.
How are the brake bleeding kits? I remember as a teenager helping my brother-in-law bleed his brakes...until I pushed down too hard and gave him a face full of brake fluid.
Last edited by c4zf6nut; Jun 26, 2011 at 10:18 AM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 296
Likes: 1
From: Tipp City Ohio
& only $180 for whole setI just bought and installed some of these from BrakeMotive and I'm very happy. I took my 88 convertible out for a spirited ride late last night and sure enough a frickin' deer pounced in the road in front of me. I got an opportunity to try the brakes out for real
and they did not disappoint. I had to change my shorts but that is beside the point. 
If you have open rims, those that allow you to really show off your rotors and calipers, then you'll like the look too. Just be sure to ask for polished hats on front and rear to ensure they match in appearance. With this kit, some brake cleaner, some steel brushes, some plastic drop sheets, brake caliper paint and lots of patience and time, you can make them look awesome.
Last edited by Tony A.; Jun 26, 2011 at 11:59 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 509
Likes: 8
From: Livonia Michigan
Thanks, I just replaced a set of Duracrap Pads on my other car, they squealed worse then a stuck pig. I rebuild calipers back in the day with guidance from someone experienced. I think I'd look at rebuilt calipers and new hoses on all 4 corners....I'm lazy in my old age.
My advice would be to purchase caliper for the front right. You need to check brake pad width outside and also on the inside to figure out if the right front is lazy. If you are handy, it is easy to find repair kits for the calipers. If you are lazy, just get loaded calipers.
I would keep the rotors, maybe sand them (not necessarily turn them). GM does not recommend turning rotors.
In my case, I bought old stock Bendix rotors made in Canada/US just because all rotors you buy are made in China now. I prefer Bendix pads, but if the price is right and you can live with them, Friction Master pads made by Morse (OH) is good too. For my 89, I bought Morse pads for $10 for the front, even though I also have a set of Bendix pads ($40 on close out).
The Performance Friction pads need a bit to warm up.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...arcode=1041242
I would keep the rotors, maybe sand them (not necessarily turn them). GM does not recommend turning rotors.
In my case, I bought old stock Bendix rotors made in Canada/US just because all rotors you buy are made in China now. I prefer Bendix pads, but if the price is right and you can live with them, Friction Master pads made by Morse (OH) is good too. For my 89, I bought Morse pads for $10 for the front, even though I also have a set of Bendix pads ($40 on close out).
The Performance Friction pads need a bit to warm up.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...arcode=1041242
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: Charleston WV
Duralast would probably not sequeal if you had installed the shims or changed rotors. GM does not recommend turning rotor for noise problems.
However, to ensure that lifetime warranty they are hard brakes, and they are scary until you warm them up. (Silver) They are made by Morse which is a good company
The symptom you mention is also possible with a collapsed brake hose. My advice is to replace all brake hoses unless you know when they were changed last. I am still on my original brake hose . The shop told me it would be a waste of my money to replace them with the Bendix hoses I brought with the car.-)
It is always a good idea to flush brake fluid every two years or so. I would use Supertech DOT 3 brake fluid. ABS systems are very sensitive to water in the fluid, and the fluid is hygroscopic. I say DOT3 because it is slightly less hygroscopic and supposed to last a little longer.
BTW, you have a large budget. It would be best to replace calipers in pairs. My recommendation is to stick to the same brand of caliper.
However, to ensure that lifetime warranty they are hard brakes, and they are scary until you warm them up. (Silver) They are made by Morse which is a good company
The symptom you mention is also possible with a collapsed brake hose. My advice is to replace all brake hoses unless you know when they were changed last. I am still on my original brake hose . The shop told me it would be a waste of my money to replace them with the Bendix hoses I brought with the car.-)
It is always a good idea to flush brake fluid every two years or so. I would use Supertech DOT 3 brake fluid. ABS systems are very sensitive to water in the fluid, and the fluid is hygroscopic. I say DOT3 because it is slightly less hygroscopic and supposed to last a little longer.
BTW, you have a large budget. It would be best to replace calipers in pairs. My recommendation is to stick to the same brand of caliper.
Thanks, I just replaced a set of Duracrap Pads on my other car, they squealed worse then a stuck pig. I rebuild calipers back in the day with guidance from someone experienced. I think I'd look at rebuilt calipers and new hoses on all 4 corners....I'm lazy in my old age.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,060
Likes: 1
From: Tabernacle NJ
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13
& only $180 for whole setI just bought and installed some of these from BrakeMotive and I'm very happy. I took my 88 convertible out for a spirited ride late last night and sure enough a frickin' deer pounced in the road in front of me. I got an opportunity to try the brakes out for real
and they did not disappoint. I had to change my shorts but that is beside the point. If you have open rims, those that allow you to really show off your rotors and calipers, then you'll like the look too. Just be sure to ask for polished hats on front and rear to ensure they match in appearance. With this kit, some brake cleaner, some steel brushes, some plastic drop sheets, brake caliper paint and lots of patience and time, you can make them look awesome.
x2
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: Charleston WV
Motive Brake rotor kit is certainly is inexpensive. I think comments in this forum are very limited to the way the rotors look, not really the quality. Any rotor will be able to stop you, but you will have major issues when they start to crack, and other problems show up.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...tmfw-rock.html
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=712596
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...e-package.html
http://www.aa1car.com/library/brake_rotors.htm
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...tmfw-rock.html
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=712596
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...e-package.html
http://www.aa1car.com/library/brake_rotors.htm
Last edited by c4zf6nut; Jun 27, 2011 at 02:00 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
My brakes are pulling to the left when I brake real HARD. Original Calipers and hoses. Lots of pad left, no groves in rotors. Car has 164k miles hopefully they are not original rotors. Alignment is good and I replaced the bushings, tie rods and ball joints about 4k miles ago.
I don't do Auto-cross, just drive around town and maybe to a car show or to work. Would like to do front and rear calipers, rotors and hoses and pads. Can someone recommend a kit? Would like to stay under $700.
How are the brake bleeding kits? I remember as a teenager helping my brother-in-law bleed his brakes...until I pushed down too hard and gave him a face full of brake fluid.
hopefully they are not original rotors. Alignment is good and I replaced the bushings, tie rods and ball joints about 4k miles ago.I don't do Auto-cross, just drive around town and maybe to a car show or to work. Would like to do front and rear calipers, rotors and hoses and pads. Can someone recommend a kit? Would like to stay under $700.
How are the brake bleeding kits? I remember as a teenager helping my brother-in-law bleed his brakes...until I pushed down too hard and gave him a face full of brake fluid.
But what does come to mind as you say "brake real hard" are the rear brakes. They can make a car pull also and many people always assume it's the fronts. I would check out the rears for equal braking action before tearing into the fronts.
If you just change everything you indicated, it may just hit the problem. I think it can all be changed for under $700 but if the calipers are not leaking, they probably OK. I did rebuilt my old ones and is doable, but a pain getting seals and pistons back in. Mind did not leak nor did it improve the performance.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: Charleston WV
Checking rears is an excellent point, I will repeat: check inside pads as well as outside. If there is uneven wear, that caliper is lazy/stuck. It may work OK sometimes, and not OK some other times.
I repeat, flush brake fluid often. Does not matter what you use. Just make sure you flush brakes. Brakes and power steering fluid are the only things you should flush period.-)
I repeat, flush brake fluid often. Does not matter what you use. Just make sure you flush brakes. Brakes and power steering fluid are the only things you should flush period.-)
On those vintage vetts flex lines and clogged ABS units have been big issues. Although you don’t have the classic symptoms and it does not sound like the case, I would just keep in the back of my mind.
But what does come to mind as you say "brake real hard" are the rear brakes. They can make a car pull also and many people always assume it's the fronts. I would check out the rears for equal braking action before tearing into the fronts.
If you just change everything you indicated, it may just hit the problem. I think it can all be changed for under $700 but if the calipers are not leaking, they probably OK. I did rebuilt my old ones and is doable, but a pain getting seals and pistons back in. Mind did not leak nor did it improve the performance.
But what does come to mind as you say "brake real hard" are the rear brakes. They can make a car pull also and many people always assume it's the fronts. I would check out the rears for equal braking action before tearing into the fronts.
If you just change everything you indicated, it may just hit the problem. I think it can all be changed for under $700 but if the calipers are not leaking, they probably OK. I did rebuilt my old ones and is doable, but a pain getting seals and pistons back in. Mind did not leak nor did it improve the performance.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 296
Likes: 1
From: Tipp City Ohio
Had a discussion today about one-man bleeding systems. If you plan on flushing all of the fluid from the system, a one-man system may take a while as you can only get so much out at a time. Better off just opening the taps, have a friend pump the line to evacuate more of the liquid - much quicker. Be sure to keep the reservoir full to pull in the new dot3 while keeping the air out. There are plenty of DIY procedures for how to do it right. My .02
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 509
Likes: 8
From: Livonia Michigan
Had a discussion today about one-man bleeding systems. If you plan on flushing all of the fluid from the system, a one-man system may take a while as you can only get so much out at a time. Better off just opening the taps, have a friend pump the line to evacuate more of the liquid - much quicker. Be sure to keep the reservoir full to pull in the new dot3 while keeping the air out. There are plenty of DIY procedures for how to do it right. My .02
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