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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 02:20 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Humfreeze
Still working this problem. New computer arrives tomorow. It was asked if the injectors had 12v at the injectors. I assumed that if the noid light illuminated/flashed as I cranked the motor then there has to be power to the injectorss. Am I wrong and how do I check this before I change out the computer tomorrow.

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Freeze
Noid light will indicate that the ECM is pulsing (ie grounding) the injectors....but it won't tell you pulse width or if you have 12V to the injectors. Remove an injector connector and use a voltmeter....with key on your should have 12V to the connector on one side. The other side is wired to the ECM injector driver. You can ground them all day long....but no power = no squirt.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 03:20 PM
  #22  
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Ok
SO I unplugged the injector wires 1 at a time and checked the voltage. Every one has 11.85 volts on both sides of the electrical connections. Do you think this is good or bad? The battery indicates 12.10 volts.

Freeze
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #23  
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I posted this question 3 days ago and no one has any ideas. Thats amazing... Can someone pull a fuel injector connector off of their C4 and check to see if when they turn the ignition on, do both sides of the connector have 12 volts or so indicated. Thanks for your help. I have now bought 8 new injectors to see if the possibility of all 8 injectors being clogged is a reality.

Freeze
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 01:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Humfreeze
I posted this question 3 days ago and no one has any ideas. Thats amazing... Can someone pull a fuel injector connector off of their C4 and check to see if when they turn the ignition on, do both sides of the connector have 12 volts or so indicated. Thanks for your help. I have now bought 8 new injectors to see if the possibility of all 8 injectors being clogged is a reality.

Freeze
yes. 12.0 or so. battery is a little higher. I have not followed the trd because so many guys have lots more experience.

but to have 8 suddenly stop up completey against 40 lbs of pressure is highly unlikely.

I also see comments that are misleading or go counter to my experience, limited as it is. both sides show 12v, not just the one. one side is grounded, so I understand, to make the thing fire.**

Last edited by joe paco; Jul 31, 2011 at 01:14 PM. Reason: add*
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 08:43 PM
  #25  
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UPDATE!!!

So I got 8 new injectors this afternoon and came home and installed them all carefully. Put top of motor back together and cranked it. Started up but rans very rough as if it is gonna die... have to open throttle all the way until engine almost dies and then when you close the throttle it idles for about 5 seconds and then dies. Engine got very hot very fast and it is backfiring through the throttle body. Any thoughts on where to go now.

Thanks

Freeze
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 09:07 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Humfreeze
UPDATE!!!

So I got 8 new injectors this afternoon and came home and installed them all carefully. Put top of motor back together and cranked it. Started up but rans very rough as if it is gonna die... have to open throttle all the way until engine almost dies and then when you close the throttle it idles for about 5 seconds and then dies. Engine got very hot very fast and it is backfiring through the throttle body. Any thoughts on where to go now.

Thanks

Freeze
two wires crossed at the cap may be the backfire. route 2 and 3 in front of dist cap to prevent electrical dischage to the ecm 4 wire plug. also 1, I believe.

idle may be TPS wires damaged, broken. yours is not adjustable -it is 90, correct?

check wires, also timing, should be 6* but has to be done "right" and I assume you have done it enuff to know, rpm at lowest point, 600 or so, est unplugged, etc..

the runner gaskets are easy to get out of positon. check runner bolts, for vac lks, all vac lines and elect plugs conected. if you verify wires and timing, maybe unhook MAP to se if it levels out, since ecm will assign a known value, so I hear.
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:24 AM
  #27  
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Thanks Joe

Flying this morning but this afternoon I am gonna dive back into it. I will check all these items. I feel I am getting close to gettin her running again with the help of all you fine gentlemen. I really appreciate all your help.

Freeze
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 03:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Humfreeze
Thanks Joe

Flying this morning but this afternoon I am gonna dive back into it. I will check all these items. I feel I am getting close to gettin her running again with the help of all you fine gentlemen. I really appreciate all your help.

Freeze
Hey there is been 6 month from your last post. did you ever get to fix your problem. ???? what was the problem????
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #29  
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Sorry I haven't gotten back with the solution to this problem. After trying everything that was suggested and following the service manual for a total of 6 weeks, I finally put it on a
The hook and hauled it up to my uncles dealership. He told me to unload it in the parking lot and I told him to just get to it when he had a chance and then left for home. I drove the 7 miles back to my home and as I pulled into the driveway my cell began to ring. My uncle tells me that the car is ready and I can come and get it whenever I wanted to. He hooked up the computer reader and it read a bad MAF sensor. He replaced it and wala, vette was running again.
All the other things I did were all for not, but it sure made me really get into the systems of the vehicle and learn how they all work together. I fly a the F18 Hornet in the US Navy and I can tell you I know as much about the systems of this car as I do about the airplane I fly now.
However, I still don't know how I would have solved this problem without actually taking it to someone who could actually hook it up to a computer. There should be a way for those of us that still know how to fix our own vehicles to solve these problems without outside help.
At least it didn't cost me anything but time to get this problem fixed.

Freeze
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #30  
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You don't need a computer to show the trouble codes. C4 Corvette Diagnostic Code Recovery Technique. Use a paperclip to display the trouble codes on the dash display.
http://www.corvettebuyers.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

Last edited by bacord; Feb 3, 2012 at 08:38 PM.
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 10:32 PM
  #31  
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Well as a matter of fact I did try that method without success. I even bought a computer tester from auto zone that plugs right into the vehicle and you can either select engine or ride control system and that didn't work by blinking the code on the dashboard either. The actual dealership computer is the only way to solve this problem without actually changing every sensor 1 by 1 and I had started down that road when I finally decided to haul it to my uncles dealership.
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