Engine Ground Problems (Again!)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 128
Likes: 1
From: Haslet Texas
Engine Ground Problems (Again!)
I recently pulled my engine ground wires off, cut them and recrimped them with new ends since the old one were worn out just a little bit because my LCD screen had gone black. Now, my headlights won't flip up. They will LIGHT up, but not flip over. I could have done something wrong, but I have no idea. They flipped over before I did anything, it was just that my dashboard went out and I found a thread on here saying that the headlights and LCD screen were linked together at the engine ground so I started there and I think I may have made the problem somehow worse.
I'm at my wits end with this electrical stuff, mostly because electrical problems are not my strong point.
A little background on the car: It's an '84 and has all kinds of electrical problems. Every time I fix one thing, I fond two more that need to be addressed. It's mentally nerve-wracking.
Any theories on how to go about fixing this thing would be very appreciated.
I'm at my wits end with this electrical stuff, mostly because electrical problems are not my strong point.
A little background on the car: It's an '84 and has all kinds of electrical problems. Every time I fix one thing, I fond two more that need to be addressed. It's mentally nerve-wracking.
Any theories on how to go about fixing this thing would be very appreciated.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Assuming the wiring is like my 87, the three relays that open and close the headlight doors need to be determined if they are receiving 12v and if their grounds are really at ground since they share the same ground point under a screw on the frame behind the LH park/turn lamp. All the power wires to the relay coils are yellow.
Your problems could be made easier with the GM electrical diagnosis manual. Get one.
Your problems could be made easier with the GM electrical diagnosis manual. Get one.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
hard to imagine that you could improve on the wire crip or the terminals, by crimping another one on. if you soldered them on, that is another issue in itself, because of the corrosion over time. but it does work fine.
if the replacements did not have the sharp lugs or nibs underneath to bite through the black paint and rust prevention, they are not going to ground. the ground path is from copper wire to wire crimp to nibs to chassis or bare metal. most are not flush grounded, because grinding down to bare metal allows corrosion.
GM stopped using the star washers for that reason -corrosion.
I'd check all of them to see if the wire crimp is tight enuff to hold 20 pound pull, and that the nibs are cutting into the metal.
if the replacements did not have the sharp lugs or nibs underneath to bite through the black paint and rust prevention, they are not going to ground. the ground path is from copper wire to wire crimp to nibs to chassis or bare metal. most are not flush grounded, because grinding down to bare metal allows corrosion.
GM stopped using the star washers for that reason -corrosion.
I'd check all of them to see if the wire crimp is tight enuff to hold 20 pound pull, and that the nibs are cutting into the metal.
Last edited by joe paco; Aug 3, 2011 at 10:17 PM. Reason: spelling*
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 128
Likes: 1
From: Haslet Texas
Assuming the wiring is like my 87, the three relays that open and close the headlight doors need to be determined if they are receiving 12v and if their grounds are really at ground since they share the same ground point under a screw on the frame behind the LH park/turn lamp. All the power wires to the relay coils are yellow.
Your problems could be made easier with the GM electrical diagnosis manual. Get one.
Your problems could be made easier with the GM electrical diagnosis manual. Get one.
This is all a very time-consuming pasttime. I would rather just be driving the thing than having it sitting in my garage. Grrrr
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
I've got the shop manual, but not the electrical manual. I did find one of the ground wires you are talking about that needs to be redone because it is showing bare wire next to the end of the bolt. The reason I redid the wores in the first place was the fact that they are 27 years old and a lot of advancements have been made since then, such as the wire ends with the heat shrink tubing on the ends to prevent moisture. I have also discovered the ground wire going to the brake booster is also questionable as well as one of the black wires from the neg. side of the battery.
This is all a very time-consuming pasttime. I would rather just be driving the thing than having it sitting in my garage. Grrrr
This is all a very time-consuming pasttime. I would rather just be driving the thing than having it sitting in my garage. Grrrr
I understand. it's a hobby we all enjoy. but heat shrinking good ground terminals is way down the list, for me.
GM says to clean the terminal, without removing the zinc or "amscote" to prevent corrosion.
be sure you have the proper "nibs" that are biting thru the paint -which is surprisingly thick, and that you used a real crimp tool.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 995
Likes: 1
From: Naples Campania
Definitely make sure that you have a washer or the terminals that actually bite through the paint. VERY important. If you continue to have problems, I would solder the wire to the terminal. It makes 100% sure that everything is making as much contact with each other as possible. Use a multimeter to verify that it is at a full ground. find some piece of the frame that is as far away from the bolt your testing as possible. Make sure you have metal to metal and shake it around to make sure it's stable. You should be at a VERY MAXIMUM of 5 Ohms, and that is pushing it pretty far. Try to get it under 2.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
I worked in appliances, the UL spec is fractional, either .2 or .02 ohms, measured at the terminal to the mating surface. of course, it was the safety issue, not functional.
I recently removed and cleaned some chassis ground terminals on the 91, none showed evidence of corrosion, and the resistance was .3, I think, before and after.
you might check some that have not been loosened to see what they read. 2-5 ohms sounds high, but my memories are fading.
I recently removed and cleaned some chassis ground terminals on the 91, none showed evidence of corrosion, and the resistance was .3, I think, before and after.
you might check some that have not been loosened to see what they read. 2-5 ohms sounds high, but my memories are fading.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,254
Likes: 221
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
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