My '95 rear trunk release just stopped working. I can hear the solenoid engage (clicking sound) when I use the fob, door or glove compartment release but the window will not open. I have to resort to the manual release at the latch itself. That is just a pain. Has anyone else experienced this and what did you do to restore? Starting to think I will need to buy a release mechanism or solenoid. If I don't respond right away, I'm sorry. I'm working extended days and hours lately.
Thanks in advance.
11/18/2011 As can be read on page two, thought I would give my latest update here as well. Okay, found some time today. I checked the resistance. Wires are good. I plugged the jacks of the multimeter into the relay inlet and outlet ports, provided a signal from the remote and got indication (12V) that a signal was transmitted to the outlet of the relay. Also check put the negative end at the end of the wire connecting to the solenoid and performed the same test and got the same results... again the relay and wires seem to be fine. I am guessing that I need to purchase a new solenoid. Will be calling Chevrolet dealership for a price. Any ideas of the cost for the solenoid? In will change it out myself. Looks easy enough. After performing checks, I reviewed GOLDCYLON's thread. Data is correct. Thanks, I will fill you guys in when I get results.
Called Chevrolet dealer today and parts department indicates that the part (solenoid release mechanism) is no longer in stock and no dealer in US has the part on the shelf. His only suggestion was an aftermarket device. Any thoughts out there? Anyone know where I/we can purchase an aftermarket part?
You all can read through all of this forum but I will post the end results here.
12/1/11 I got a solenoid from an E-bay seller 'Cute Dogz' out in California. Installed it yesterday and it works fine. Thanks for the e-bay heads up, 3D87C4. Read other comments on Corvette Forum and Cute Dogz came through. Problem solved. Thanks for the help guys.

 

have someone hit the button while you try to push it up from the inside. Either the hook is not releasing, or your hydrolic rams are not pushing hard enough.

If you can't push it up while the button is being held down, then it's the hook. Some WD-40, a toothbrush, and a few rags will be enough to clean it up. Follow that up with some 3.in.1 oil and you should be good to go. Take off the plastic trim on the back deck lid and you can get all in and around it.

If it's the rams, then replace them. Get ready with a small flathead screwdriver, a friend, and some of you best cuss words.

 

Already removed trim, used WD40 and oil. Again, I can hear at least the relay pick up. Sounds like the Solenoid is not working. The latch moves freely when using the manual release. Looking through other threads. Might be a ground issue. Still don't know. Maybe some electrical checks will provide insight.
Thanks again.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-z...ease-95-a.html

 

Would anyone know how I would go about searching for a ground? I have a digital multimeter but I am not an electrician and basically hunt and peck if I need to use it. Thanks

 

Pull the connector off of the solenoid.
Stick each lead of the voltmeter into the connector.
Put voltmeter on DC volts, scale that will show 12 volts.
Watch voltmeter, push hatch release button.
If voltmeter shows 12V, then all is fine with wiring.
Now this is assuming that there are two wires going to the solenoid connector.
If only one wire, then ground is through frame.
Put voltmeter on ohms, lowest scale you have.
Put one lead to body of solenoid, other lead to neg (black) battery terminal.
Voltmeter reading should be less than 1. This shows the solenoid is grounded.

You can also apply 12V directly to the solenoid using a piece of wire from the battery just to see/hear if it moves or clicks. Only do this for a quick touch....as there is no inline fuse to protect anything. If you hold the wire on and the solenoid has shorted...you will pull alot of current and the wire will burn....not something you want to do. Kinda of fun to see...but not in your car.


Good luck.

 

I ran into exactly the same problem today. The solenoid sounds like an antenna motor with stripped gears, and of course, the solenoid is not engaging the catch release.

After pulling on the release cable with a garden tool, I pulled the trunk liner and removed the Connector (two wires), tested it and and found a momentary 12 volts with each keypress. Note: The voltage immedately drops back to zero as fast as the inexpensive digital meter I have will adjust. Have not yet tried hotwiring the solenoid. Thought I would ask if anyone has experienced and fixed this problem, and if this is a weak relay or a bad solenoid.
Also, the latch mechanism is not binding, is clear of debris, and releases easily with the manual release.

Thanks

 

Having the same problem.

 

It only takes a momentary application of 12V for the solenoid to move and release the latch mechanism.
Sounds like the solenoid is not working.....time to replace it.

 

Curious: Where is the "manual hatch release"?

 

Under the handle of the rear compartment curtain there's a peace of wire that can be grabbed and tugged on to release the hatch.
Check the manual there's an illustration there showing how it should be don.

Best of luck

 

what manual release. are you talking about. is there a manual release. and if there are. where is the location.

 

If the signal in is good and the device doesn't function, it's a bad device.

For for information purposes, the manual release is supposed to have a handle on it. Most of the have been pulled off. If you take off the rear deck trim, you will see a little steel cable hanging out down there. I used an old oil dipstick handle, drilled a hole, and put a retainer on the outside. Works pretty well. It's still under the trim though...

 

The manual release is a short (~ 8 in. long) steel cable located at the rear of the hatch under the shade just to the passenger side of center. It is sometimes up under the edge of the carpet back there so it may not be really obvious. BTW, when my electric release messed up, I hooked a long boot lace to the short steel cable and ran it up behind the passenger seat so that it was easy to reach (without having to crawl all the way into the hatch to reach the short manual release). The boot lace was surprisingly easy to pull and release the hatch. I have actually left this on the car.

 

That that is some redneck engineering there. You should have seen some of the stuff we did to the old Mopars my dad used in demolition derby. THAT was some unacceptable stuff.

 

Thanks guys. Just got a day off and will look into some of your suggestions. Also, thanks for the training on searching for grounds.

 

Thanks for the training LannyL81

 

Wait, the rear hatch shocks are supposed to raise the window open? Mine don't even hold it up cause they're so old.

 

My relatively new "good" gas shocks make the hatch slowly rise up when the hatch is released. Looks like magic! Then I have to push it down firmly to latch.

Not sure about the hood one though. Mine holds it up but has to be lifted to fully open. Then I lower it to about 4-6 in. from closed and let go for it to close. Anyone have a better way?

 

The hood is way too heavy for any shocks to lift. Your procedure is the correct one as far as I know. I do the same thing.