You should know better than that.


It really depends on how bad/where the leak is. Why did it start leaking? Is it a material issue? Will a new leak happen as soon as you fix this one?

If it is a leak from an impact/rock/etc I would have no problem fixing it. You fix the hole and yo uare as good as new. If it is a "natural" leak, it really makes me wonder how many more are about to happen.

 

 

robsball; If there is any way you can attempt to do this yourself, do it. You will thank everyone later on for talking you into this, it really is a fairly straight forward, and simple job.

 

If you drove the motor with a leaky gasket for any length of time beware it can mess up the bearings. If your oil pressure was healthy then just do the head gasket.

Absolutely have the heads surfaced!! A quick mill wont change the compression any noticeable amount, even if they got aggressive it wont hurt the motor thats a wives tale. Gotta be nice and flat to seal.

That used 89 motor. Bet it hasnt had the gaskets done, those will fail too. They all did.

 

+1. Buying a used motor when you have a rebuildable one is just buying another set of crap to break.

If you really go spendy and do all the "while you're there" stuff, even paying someone else, you'll spend not as much as you think on a SBC. I did head gaskets on my 87 this year because it was spraying out on the exhaust manifold (never leaked into oil or cylinder, weird leak); I did a full Victor Reinz gasket set, new water pump, thermostat, all new hoses, heads resurfaced, valve grind, new guides and seals and fluids. I did this for under $500 and I used ACDelco for everything but the head gasket set; AND I know what's been done, unlike a mystery motor.

Even if you pay someone else, if they're honest, you'll spend less than the scenario you've outlined. I'd pay the tow and GTFO of his shop.

 

Have the shop quote you a price on a remanufactured long block. $1800 for an 80k mile engine seems steep. And if the engine is no good, you could lose your cost of labor. Something to think about. Good luck!!!!! Also, most definitely replace the radiator. They aren't that expensive and will cool much more efficiently than the old one. Cheap insurance.

 

New head gaskets: $40
New waterpump: $60
Flush radiator: $50...most of the work is done since they have to drain it to replace the gaskets
Other gaskets (intake, TPI, exhaust manifolds, etc): $100
Refresh the heads (clean, replace seals, resurface): $200
Misc parts, fluids (oil, coolant, water) and Labor for all: $900
Total: $1350

Since labor rates vary, you should end up between $1000 & $1500. Anything else is a ripoff.

 

Men don't always get excited by the skirt. It's what's inside that counts. Unlike the other guy, I will say

Why do you think that when the car needs work, I never allow the wife to do more than pick it up? She doesn't talk to the techs, no eye contact, just pick up the key and leave. I'll have taken care of it all. OTOH, when we go to the doctor, I just repeat what she said and nod my head. She makes all the decisions before we get there.

That said, where are you located? If you are not driving it, can you wait? IIRC, DeWitts is having a sale in Jan for radiators. Might as well have a good clean radiator.

 

how many miles on your original engine ? unless your original engine has a zillion miles on it, uses / burns oil, or suffered a massive overheating, a blown head gasket is rarely enough reason to replace the engine.

pull both heads, visually inspect for damage.

send heads to a reputable machine shop that does (a lot of) heads on a production basis
have heads inspected...mostly for cracks eminating from the exhaust seats and passages (the hot spots) if okay get a quote: grind valves and seats...inspect and replace valve guides as needed....new springs (maybe)....new seals (definetly)...and have the heads surfaced just enough to ensure that they are completely flat. This is just the basic garden variety vavle job and should not be that expensive. Ask them about their getting the head gasket set also...they will probably do it at a discount.

replace the heads onto the engine...call it a day.

sure...replace the water pump...bust a couple bucks and get a quality new pump...they aren't that expensive...and they are good insurance.

replacing the radiator ...thats something that can be done later, but do take the original into a radiator shop, have it back flushed and pressure tested...that should be enough at this point...of course replace it if it's marginal or the budget can afford it.

an ignition tune up and oil / filter change and you should be good to go for a long time.

p.s. for eighteen hundred dollars you should be able to do MUCH better than an used 80,000 mile engine...just go online and do a little "finger" shopping.

and don't let anyone blow smoke up your .....or as my wife was told by a national tire chain, "The reason your tire keeps going flat is that your husband puts too much air in it" (turns out a previous patch job done by them didn't seal completely).

good luck, keep us posted. It's hard enough keeping a C4 on the road, and I already don't like your shop. Don't let anyone convince you to throw your "baby" out with the bath water.

 

The shop is still on Rt 1. Can't remember name. It's on the right as you head north out of Fred. Plenty of Vettes out front.

 

If you pull and resurface heads be sure to use new head bolts as well.

 

I didn't read every post here but IMO I'd never replace the motor on my car; I'd have it rebuilt for a few reasons but two majors: First if its a car you're going to keep do it once and do it right. Second it would bother me that the original motor is gone.

 

amen brother ; and, if past history is any indication, as c4 prices appreciate, that "matching number" engine will become VERY important

 

Thank you for brightening my day. Now if the Tooth Fairy comes by riding a unicorn and tells me where to find the leprechaun's pot of gold it will be a PERFECT day.

But, hey, it never hurts to dream. You big city folks down there in Folsom must be congenital optimists. Us hillbillies up here in Placerville have to face a harsher reality.

 

... Except for a cracked block or cracked heads, or a block that has been bored beyond .060, or one that has had a rod break and subsequently destroy the block, the original block can most likely be refurbished - but waaay to early to talk about that stuff till we see what the problem is first.

Machine shops are hungry. So, one has to be specific, to avoid some shops from being given an inch and taking a mile. I'm just sayin...it is easy to get taken for a ride. A tight leash is usually a good thing.

Because the gasket problem is common with this particular vintage SBC, I believe doing both gaskets now would be prudent. However, to flux the heads for cracks means disassembly and hot tanking, grinding, etc, etc. would be SOP for a rebuild.

But, in this case, it is still just a repair. Without reason to expand the project, I'd lean toward the KISS principle - for now, anyway.

Not to disagree with anything you said, but I often have to remind myself to draw the line somewhere before changing the thermostat becomes a complete overhaul..."while I'm at it!!"

My point is, replacing the head gaskets is a drop in the bucket, compared to the time and $$$ for a full R&R of the heads; so much so that unless there was reason, it makes more sense to fix the simple problem, and plan the R&R for a later day, if needed.

Not arguing - but knowing me, I often go way beyond the pale myself, and I suspect some of that in yer post. Its OK. As a hobby to me (and maybe you too) I don't always need a reason to tear something down at the slightest provocation. (I should have been a certified aircraft mechanic!)

P.

 

I must agree with KISS.

But if your going to get the heads done get both of them done at the same time find out what they want to charge you before they do the work.

Price a set of after market heads and see what the better deal before you go get the heads done.

Something like this but you need to call them I think this price is for a set.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30310005/

 

One of the best reasons (except the beer at the meetings) of belonging to a Local Corvette club is the availability of information ..like what shops to AVOID as well as what shops do good work at a reasonable price...

I do most of my own work..BUT I have one mechanic that I use for my C1 and C3's ( 40 some miles from my home) and another for my C4 and C5s who is located much closer in town..... and I "follow" one local guy who does alignments and go to the shop where he is "currently" working" same deal with electrical problems (I use one man just for those problems IF can't solve or myself...

BobG

 

If you are replacing the head gaskets it's good practice to have the heads cleaned,pressure tested and milled(IF NEEDED).Good luck

 

I agree. Overheating doesn't cause the gasket to leak, the heat warps the head which causes the leak. As a minum have the head checked for warpage otherwise it will leak when you re-install it even with a new gasket.

 

$1,800 for a used engine with 80K is an absolute rip off. There is nothing special about an 89 Corvette L98 engine, it is no different than a 350 taken from a Chevrolet pick up truck. Perhaps the heads are a bit better but a small block 350 is a small block 350. Get your Vette out of that rip off joint and find a reputable mechanic. This place has tried to screw you right from the get go, why do you think they will treat you better since you just want the leaking head gasket repaired. Once they tear it down they have you by the short hairs, your car in pieces all over the shop and they tell you the engine is shot (probably a lie) but you will have to pay towing, labor for tearing into the engine and anything else they can find to charge you.