Fuel gauge
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 53
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From: Mooresville Indiana
Fuel gauge
Followed all the good posts on gas gauge showing full and pulled mine ....found the gauge mechanism disassembeled in the tank.
Reassembled and reinstalled and now show mpg and miles to run but no bars showing on the quanity gauge .
Disconnected battery cable afterwards and plan on reading codes .....also has the no heat thing ...starting on that next.... already read all the good posts on that.
Can`t beat this forum.
Reassembled and reinstalled and now show mpg and miles to run but no bars showing on the quanity gauge .
Disconnected battery cable afterwards and plan on reading codes .....also has the no heat thing ...starting on that next.... already read all the good posts on that.
Can`t beat this forum.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
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From: El Paso Texas
Have you read this thread ?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...h-article.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...h-article.html
Seriously, this is a simple fix that works about 90% of the time, and costs next to nothing. The contacts and windings just get contaminated.....actually glazed....and stop making good contact. Roughing up the surface on the contact and cleaning the windings usually makes the gauge responsive again.
Any questions or if you hit any snags, let me know.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Mooresville Indiana
Yes , read that...very good. I figured I had it whipped when I saw the rheostat gizmo in 2 pieces....came undone at tabs.
Reading Section 8 A electrical diagnosis page 8A-82-15.
Displayed full before, shows empty now. Book says replace central control module. Can`t we do something else?
Reading Section 8 A electrical diagnosis page 8A-82-15.
Displayed full before, shows empty now. Book says replace central control module. Can`t we do something else?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
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From: El Paso Texas
Hmmmm.....90 + ohms of resistance will make it show full. If it's showing empty now, then the gauge is getting 0 ohms (ie either the float is at the bottom or there is a short).
Try this: remove your sending unit again and leave harness plugged in. Unplug fuel pump terminal so it doesn't run. Tape up the tank opening so no fumes escape. Have a helper sit in the car and watch gauge with key on as you move the float slowly by hand. Perhaps your sender is now working but the float is binding in the tank somehow.
Try this: remove your sending unit again and leave harness plugged in. Unplug fuel pump terminal so it doesn't run. Tape up the tank opening so no fumes escape. Have a helper sit in the car and watch gauge with key on as you move the float slowly by hand. Perhaps your sender is now working but the float is binding in the tank somehow.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Mooresville Indiana
I don`t think it is binding or an obstruction in the tank. I cleaned up the wiper contact point with 400 while I had it out.........guess it`s time to read about central control modules.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Anaheim CA
The gas gauge response is heavily filtered to keep it from bouncing around as you drive and the gas sloshes around in the tank. It takes 15 to 20 seconds for it to display a change in the float level.
I opened the hatch for better visibility and watched the gas gauge as I moved the float arm at the rear of the car.
I opened the hatch for better visibility and watched the gas gauge as I moved the float arm at the rear of the car.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: South-central Missouri
NOTE: Cliff is right about the (electronically induced hysteresis) "filtering" resulting in considerable lag in the gauge's response. That's why I suggested using the VOM to check out the rheostat independently, before moving forward to the gauge test.
P.
Last edited by Paul Workman; Jan 2, 2012 at 09:15 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 6,314
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From: South-central Missouri
The temptation to assume - especially now - is strong. BTDT toooo many times!
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 53
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From: Mooresville Indiana
To bring this fuel quantity problem to a successful close....this is what I found...after checking the wiring and ohming out the resistance strip. I started checking continuity of the contact point, which appears to be a very small rivet. I had previously cleaned this up with 400, however there was no continuity between the "rivet" and the float arm. After several attempts to restore continuity to this area I flowed a minute quantity of solder around the base of the rivet and restored normal operation.
