Really, please tell.

 

LORE! There is no truth to this whatsoever. A Thermostat stuck open will only prolong warm up time. NOT cause overheating.

Also, there is no need for a Robert Shaw "balanced" T-stat. Plain cheapies work just fine in this application. Not that it's not a great piece...just that it's a waste of money.

 

Hmm I suppose a new thermostat is a cheap fix. Last night, since all indications i read seemed to think that running at 250 on highway wasn't horrible...hmmm, I took Goldfinger for a 25 mile jaunt to a meeting i had. At highway speeds of only 65 - 70 the temp got up to 257 and yes I guess thats when the idiot light does indeed come on. I guess i just find it a little hard to believe that yankiong the radiator and cleaning the front will eliminate this problem. Even if it lowers it 20 degrees as some indicate, 237 is not the norm for this car...how do you know if the water pump is working properly? I will try the thermostat tonight. Currently stuck using the Vette at the moment as my wifes car is in the garage as well. I did learn though this morning on my 45 mile commute to wrok in the Vette...that if I keep the cruise control on 62 mph...I can keep the temp under 230 and no idiot light...very nervosu though about driving it....

 

I wish there was a magic stick to poke a hole in this persistent idea so that it would wither and die. A lower thermostat will have no effect on running temperature; it's only influence is on the time it takes to get up to running temperature.

 

When my fans kick on (I have manual switches on my '94) the temp drops like a stone down to the 185-degree t-stat controlled level even at idle on a hot day, so something seems to be amiss with yours.

Assuming the radiator is not clogged with debris you are apparently not getting adequate coolant flow for some reason. A t-stat which will not open completely; weak water pump; or internally clogged radiator would be likely culprits. Do the cheap things first: flush the system completely, then install a new radiator and t-stat -- both are relatively inexpensive and easy to do. I got my NOS radiator from Corvetterecycling.com for $120 delivered and since it's OEM it fits perfectly and works...well, like new.

If the problem persists I suppose a water pump is next.

 

Thanks so much sounds like the start of a plan to me...yank and clean radiator, flush for ***** inside, thermostat then water pump hmmm okie dokie...

 

Appreciate your help Anciano...

 

I installed a low temp switch on my 84 which comes on at around 192 and off at 185. I removed my AC compressor, smog pump and condenser and like someone alread said, there was a ton of old leaves and other junk between the radiator and condenser. I also replaced my water pump with a high volume Stewart(made in USA) since I was doing a camshaft change and a carb conversion. My stock radiator had a few minor leaks in it so had it flushed and soldered. They said it was in good shape still. I also installed a water temp gauge under the hood so can monitor the temp when tuning the engine. I used the bung on the ZZ4 intake I used for the conversion.

 

I don't know about the L98 engine, but I know that the LT1's cooling system is adequate in OEM form IF: 1) the car is moving forward at sufficient rate to force air through the radiator; or 2) the fans are pulling air through the radiator. At idle and stationary the engine will heat up quickly until the fans are energized at 228 and 235. I still think that's too hot. It certainly smells too hot.

And I continue to maintain that the simplest, cheapest and easiest solution is to spend an hour of your time and about $5-6 installing a manual fan switch or switches.

 

I think that after you clean the radiator and change the thermostat, you be fine.
Buying a high efficiency water pump is BS. If the system is operating right, it won't over heat

 

My wife got her car back so i gotmy daily commuter back from her..thus Goldfinger doesn't have to run today. With all the suggestions I am going to start with celaning the radiator and changing the thermostat. Good ol Auto palace near me has on that is 180 vs the sticok @ 195, hopefully this will help or should i opt out for one of the 160 units listed in Eckler's etc...? I suppose if ordering from a catalogue I may as well add a new switch for the fan, makes sense to me..can these be used for a 1984 for some reason I thought these were only available from 1985 and newer...? When i got home from my commute last night the temp was 240 but it was also almost 90 outside vs 65 for morning commute. Since the car was still a tad warmish lol, I figured i would check the oil tonight, , I may throw up if I find anti freeze gunk in there . Hmmm I just thought ( although this makes no sense to me ) I just changed the oil and filter on Saturday using the new Mobile one for high mileage vehicles that is supposed tohelp compression, oil use and consumption etc...there's no way changing to this oil from stright Mobil one would affect anything...could it..? I am assuming this is a giant coincidence.

 

So...with everyones advice weighed appropriately, my plan of attack o the overheating issue was as follows:

1. check dipstick for signs of gunk as well as radiator.
Done, all clear, whew...
2. remove shroud and radiator to clean road debrios off the front of radiator...
so...heres where it got a bit sticky...got the shroud off ( I think most people forget that an 84 shroud and fan assy is not the same as an 85 and up ) anyway was going pretty well until I managed to snap the lower trannsmission line going into the radiator.....so now what....?? Is that a standart part I can get at Auto Zone....so now, the car is sitting on ramps in driveway....not good...

3. After transmission line is replaced i guess clean radiator and re-install..

4. If after reinstall its still running hot ( 240 to 250 hghwy ) I guess i do the thermostat...

5. If afer thermostat change out i am then going to tackle the water pump...( really, really not looking forward to the belt omg...... )

Any other thoughts....how bad is this damned tranny line going to be....?

Or...is it time to have it towed to the garage...?

 

have been out of action for about 6 months see nothing has changed still taalking about overheating lol

 

Maybe I missed it, but i think once i got the tranny line fixed, I would flush the radiator out a couple of times......When I did mine it was terrible, so I did it 3 times. Good luck

 

No.

Remove the line from the transmission. Remove the corresponding piece from the radiator. Take it to any hose and tubing shop and they will repair it for you. Put it back in.

If necessary, remove the cooler line and radiator if you can't get the fitting out. Take both to the tubing shop. They will fix you right up.

Clean the front of the rad and straighten any bent fins. Flush it out good and reinstall. Replace thermostat. Flush system. Refill with 50/50 distilled water and coolant, or straight premix.

Good to go. Assuming your fans are kicking on your car should cool just fine

 

Do you have any info on how I can do this?

 

Hmmmmm reporting in after way too much time on radiator removal and re-install lol...I have learned the hard way...do not, do not, do not...fracture transmission lines to the radiator because...they are not made anymore....beats the ***** out of me you can buy any year before and 84 on line but 84 and newer...nothing...anyway cut the tubing and splice in hydraulic hose, that bit all seems to be fine. It seems that living in New Hampshire , Goldfinger likes to collect the fall leaves....a lot of freakin leaves in front of the radiator...anyway cleaned all out, re-installed..( no extra parts left over thank God ! ) and went for a quick jaunt. I brought the car up to fan temp in the driveway ( 236 it kicked on ) and then went for a quick 10 minute spin, the temp was quickly dropping to about 200 , actually got down to 192 for a bit before i decided to hot rod it a bit on back roads//then went to 198.....tonight we do the highway and see what happens...so far so good and havent changed the thermostat yet...although bought it...

Thanks to everyone...!!!!

 

If you have cleaned out around the radiator and checked to see if the coolant system is full,I would change the temperature sensor,to trick the computer and make the fan come on early. I did this about 4 to 5 years ago,best thing I could have done. I bought my 84 new and the car has always ran on the hotter side.,probably just too low to the ground where air can't really get underneath. I purchased my sensor from Ecklers. Good luck

 

Glad you got it working right....though 236 is too high for the fan to kick on. Should be around 225 or so. As mentioned below, you can change out the fan switch (pass side of block) and have it come on sooner. You can even run a toggle switch and run the fan manually, just by grounding the temp switch in the head.

 

My "89" will run 182-185 all day long that is until I am at a standstill. 220 is not uncommon.
Your temp ranges are pretty normal. If you have access to a compressor, blow out the radiator. You will be amazed at what comes out. C4's are like vacuum cleaners, so it's a good idea to clean any debris out around the rad once or twice a year.