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I have NO CLUE if the new master was bench bled or not......Is this a MUST DO to do it properly?? It was replaced at a brake specialist place. The fluid is a gorgeous golden color...lol......compared to the coffee that used to be in it......Im concerned the rotors are smooth as glass so early....would air in the system cause it to glaze up because its not working properly????
If the car was brought to a place to replace the master, I would bring it back with my complaint and definitely ask if it was bench bled. I always bench bleed masters before the install, its easy and takes all but 10 minutes.
I would still say air in the system is your problem. Most places will do a quick bleed and send you on your way.
Please forgive the question but I dont KNOW....just have an idea.....If the new master was NOT bench bled prior to installation.....does it have to come off again, or will it just take a bit longer to bleed it to the calipers???
I didn't think ceramic pads were recommended for early C4's. Just wondered if they might not provide enough resistance with the brake pressure supplied?
Please forgive the question but I dont KNOW....just have an idea.....If the new master was NOT bench bled prior to installation.....does it have to come off again, or will it just take a bit longer to bleed it to the calipers???
You can "bench bleed" the master while its on the car. Just disconnect the front and rear lines, disconnect and plug the output on the bottom of the master and go at it. Instead of pushing the plunger of the master by hand, you can use the brake pedal. Let me know if you need further instructions. Once all the air is out, reconnect the lines and bleed all four wheels, starting from the wheel furtherest from the master and work your way forward. Motormite makes a bench bleed kit btw, you can get it at any AutoZone or PepBoys.
Originally Posted by cuengineer
I didn't think ceramic pads were recommended for early C4's. Just wondered if they might not provide enough resistance with the brake pressure supplied?
I think you're right. I would stick to the semi-metallic pads, just use a good quality one.
Went to the Corvettes ONLY mechanic today.......He said if I wanted to throw $2500 at the, that would be about the only way to make a HUGE improvement. Otherwise, drilled/slotted rotors and hawk pads would help, but he doubts a huge difference. Not what I was hoping to hear. I guess I will save my pennies and go the way of the rotors/pad.
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