PKE Receiver?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 10
From: Kennewick WA
PKE Receiver?
OK. I've been trying to get my PKE system to work on the '96 coupe I just recently bought. No luck. I do not get a PKE light on the display when first turning the key on (Nor does it come on when I attempt to program.). The door locks cycle but I don't hear the chime if I open the car door with the key in the ignition. "Door ajar" lights work.
Before I order a new PKE receiver I figured I'd ask here if I'm missing something. If I do have to order one, who is the cheapest source? Or should I just go with an aftermarket system? And is there a chain outfit that has one that won't show? (The car is in show room condition.).
Thanks in advance.
Before I order a new PKE receiver I figured I'd ask here if I'm missing something. If I do have to order one, who is the cheapest source? Or should I just go with an aftermarket system? And is there a chain outfit that has one that won't show? (The car is in show room condition.).
Thanks in advance.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 42
From: Baltimore, MD USA
Sounds like the key in ignition switch is bad or needs cleaning.
Simple fix but requires you remove the steering wheel and
air bag to get to it. Or you can short the two wires coming
from the switch at the connector in the middle of the
steering column rather than fixing the switch.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-problem.html
Simple fix but requires you remove the steering wheel and
air bag to get to it. Or you can short the two wires coming
from the switch at the connector in the middle of the
steering column rather than fixing the switch.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-problem.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,075
Likes: 109
From: Longmont Co
Sounds like you have a problem in the ignition cylinder. First, check the fuses just to be safe. Especially 26, 40 and 42. If the door open-key in ignition switch isn't working the programming procedure can't work. But there is also a problem because your PKE light should light up as part of the programming sequence. Don't discount the possibility that the PKE light bulb is burned out.
It would help if you posted each step so we know exactly what you did as part of the programming attempt, and what happened. If you have key on, push TRIP twice (I'm looking at a 95 manual, not sure if 96 is the same) and hold FUEL INFO and the light does not come on after a reasonable time, you need to start there. Make sure you have power to the bulb (fuses), make sure the bulb isn't burned out, make sure the TRIP and FUEL buttons are working.
If you can get the light to come on, then when turning the key to off, try holding it in the cylinder firmly when you move it to the off position. Some guys have had this work for them. Should be able to make the door open chime come on the same way.
If you check everything else out and still can't get the light to come on, it might be the receiver (or a wiring problem almost anywhere).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 10
From: Kennewick WA
Have checked all fuses twice. I suspect chime and PKE problem are related to ignition switch. Correct? Just bought the car and it came with a brand new key and no FOB. Key worked badly for first few days but now works fine. Could the new key be the problem?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,075
Likes: 109
From: Longmont Co
If the key is a poor fit I guess it might be "loose" enough to not let the chime or PKE work. I take it holding it in tightly when turning it off doesn't help.
But if the light never comes on, sounds like you might have two problems to me.
But if the light never comes on, sounds like you might have two problems to me.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 10
From: Kennewick WA
And pressure on the key did not work. It goes in Monday for a diagnostic.
All replies were appreciated. The best bet from my own reading and the replies is to start with the chime and see if that doesn't also fix the PKE. Could be an expensive chime to obtain though if our best guess proves wrong.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 10
From: Kennewick WA
I don't know if it's worth it or not.
Last edited by Sam Ruger; Aug 1, 2012 at 02:20 AM.
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Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
From: Providence RI
The shop failed to diagnose the problem. I will talk to the shop though and see if they got no error codes at all (Which would explain their inability to diagnose.). If so, as another poster noted, it's a dirty switch in the steering column and a day and a half to clean and fix. Probably more time effective to just buy another switch. Lots of issues in getting to it but, once there, it pops right out.
I don't know if it's worth it or not.
I don't know if it's worth it or not.
I bought a new fob, when I bought my 1994 as there was nothing with it. $189 american dollars. and now I find that there are three possible problems, reciever, key switch, or antennas...so I just continue to be envious of Joe Toyota, and shake my head, and say oh well..I am not tearing down my rattle-free dash and steering column, to fix a freakin door lock issue, and live with it, grumbling every day, but glad its not my DD or I would have it apart and repaired. So I have a Fob with nothing to do but display a C4 logo..nice.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 10
From: Kennewick WA
I have the same issue and it just irritates me when I see Joe Toyota clik his fob and get in his car..when I am twisting a key in the door lock like it was a '40 chevy.
I bought a new fob, when I bought my 1994 as there was nothing with it. $189 american dollars. and now I find that there are three possible problems, reciever, key switch, or antennas...so I just continue to be envious of Joe Toyota, and shake my head, and say oh well..I am not tearing down my rattle-free dash and steering column, to fix a freakin door lock issue, and live with it, grumbling every day, but glad its not my DD or I would have it apart and repaired. So I have a Fob with nothing to do but display a C4 logo..nice.
I bought a new fob, when I bought my 1994 as there was nothing with it. $189 american dollars. and now I find that there are three possible problems, reciever, key switch, or antennas...so I just continue to be envious of Joe Toyota, and shake my head, and say oh well..I am not tearing down my rattle-free dash and steering column, to fix a freakin door lock issue, and live with it, grumbling every day, but glad its not my DD or I would have it apart and repaired. So I have a Fob with nothing to do but display a C4 logo..nice.
I've read several car stereo shops can sell you an aftermarket system that opens the locks plus the rear hatch for $ 140 installed. That still leaves us with useless FOB's.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
From: Providence RI
Same here. I own a brand new FOB still in the bag only to find out it's not the problem. Having spent that much for it already, I was ready to go the rest of the way - especially when a steering column switch did not sound all that expensive. But a day and a half's labor? That's another consideration.
I've read several car stereo shops can sell you an aftermarket system that opens the locks plus the rear hatch for $ 140 installed. That still leaves us with useless FOB's.
I've read several car stereo shops can sell you an aftermarket system that opens the locks plus the rear hatch for $ 140 installed. That still leaves us with useless FOB's.
Sam, I am thinking of going that aftermarket route, but you know when it's time to sell the car, you hate to tell a buyer..sure the original system is intact, BUT IT DOESN'T WORK...that just gives them a bad taste. Other than the PKE, everything works well, so I shouldn't cry too much, but its just frustrating to have to rip so much apart to fix the damn thing, when they could have mounted it under the seat..etc.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,075
Likes: 109
From: Longmont Co
Sam (and everyone), here is neat information I just saw on another thread.
As you know, you can't program the fob if the ignition switch doesn't sense your key as being in place. If you have the key in the ignition, and you don't hear a chime or buzzer, you have his problem. Here is a way to override the switch and maybe be able to proceed to program your fob. (courtesy of Hooked on Vettes):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-problem.html
As you know, you can't program the fob if the ignition switch doesn't sense your key as being in place. If you have the key in the ignition, and you don't hear a chime or buzzer, you have his problem. Here is a way to override the switch and maybe be able to proceed to program your fob. (courtesy of Hooked on Vettes):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-problem.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 10
From: Kennewick WA
Sam (and everyone), here is neat information I just saw on another thread.
As you know, you can't program the fob if the ignition switch doesn't sense your key as being in place. If you have the key in the ignition, and you don't hear a chime or buzzer, you have his problem. Here is a way to override the switch and maybe be able to proceed to program your fob. (courtesy of Hooked on Vettes):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-problem.html
As you know, you can't program the fob if the ignition switch doesn't sense your key as being in place. If you have the key in the ignition, and you don't hear a chime or buzzer, you have his problem. Here is a way to override the switch and maybe be able to proceed to program your fob. (courtesy of Hooked on Vettes):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...r-problem.html
I understand the switch won't come out if the key is in the ignition so the key is either in direct contact with the switch or moves a lever that closes the switch when its inserted (Have never seen it so am just guessing.). Electrical contact is not being made due to "dirt" in the switch.
I'm wondering how that switch got "dirty"? And I'm thinking the only way for that switch to lose contact is by pocket lint from the key. If one sprayed a solvent into the ignition switch that dissolved lint but did no harm to wiring...
Dumass idea?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,075
Likes: 109
From: Longmont Co
If I'm reading that post correctly, it shouldn't take that long to get to the connector and short it. Trying to clean the switch sounds like a good idea, but I'm not sure what you would use.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 10
From: Kennewick WA
Just shot it with a Walmart can of compressed air through a tube. No luck. seemed like a good idea though. Other sources recommend acetone, gasoline, or brake cleaner with the battery disconnected. Not sure I want to risk creating two problems out of one.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
From: Providence RI
Radio Shack, and also CRC, see my link below, should have a can of Tuner Spray...sounds crazy right?
but back in the day they had a formulation to use on old transitor radios to clean the contacts inside the radio, if its still available you can try that to clean the contact.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRC-QD-Elect...0wt_962attempt to clean the switch..it will evaporate into the air ..
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 10
From: Kennewick WA
Thanks again
I do appreciate the responses. I tried squirting graphite into the ignition switch to hope to short the switch with it. No luck. So tried a higher force of compressed air. No luck.
Just eliminating my options, cheapest step at a time.
Anyone know the part # for the "key ignition switch"? Might as well price one.
Just eliminating my options, cheapest step at a time.
Anyone know the part # for the "key ignition switch"? Might as well price one.