refinish wheels.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 208
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From: Trophy Club Texas
refinish wheels.
I am told these wheels came from a 40th anniversary. They are the unpainted sawblades with the flat machined face. They he clear coat which is now peeling.
I think they are aluminum, but I am not 100% sure. Maybe magnesium??
Anyway, I am cleaning them right now to get all the gunk off, and plan to use aircraft remover to remove the remaining clearcoat, before re-shooting them with clear again.
Just wanting to know of others who have done this and be certain that the aircraft remover is not going to damage/discoloration the metal.
Anyone else done these before?
I think they are aluminum, but I am not 100% sure. Maybe magnesium??
Anyway, I am cleaning them right now to get all the gunk off, and plan to use aircraft remover to remove the remaining clearcoat, before re-shooting them with clear again.
Just wanting to know of others who have done this and be certain that the aircraft remover is not going to damage/discoloration the metal.
Anyone else done these before?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,383
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Not likely what you wanted to hear but this is a wheel that if they're in good cosmetic condition with the clear peeling or otherwise damaged you would be better off having them refinished/reconditioned professionally. Your wheels are aluminum which generally requires an adhesion promoter, proper preparation and cure for satisfactory results.
If you go after the machined finish with sandpaper, scuff pads and the like you'll ruin the machined finish.
I'd check locally for some wheel repair/restoration facilities and see what the options are. Materials for a proper refinish aren't inexpensive and you likely won't be happy with the results.
If you're dead set on doing them yourself spend considerable time doing the research.
Alodine is I believe a good adhesion promoter or a good beginning read regarding conversion coatings and adhesion promoters for aluminum refinish.
If you go after the machined finish with sandpaper, scuff pads and the like you'll ruin the machined finish.
I'd check locally for some wheel repair/restoration facilities and see what the options are. Materials for a proper refinish aren't inexpensive and you likely won't be happy with the results.
If you're dead set on doing them yourself spend considerable time doing the research.
Alodine is I believe a good adhesion promoter or a good beginning read regarding conversion coatings and adhesion promoters for aluminum refinish.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 208
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From: Trophy Club Texas
I am in an auto refinishing class. I have all the professional tools. I already refinished the rest of the car, my truck, and countless others. I've done other wheels, but not aluminium. Just doing some research ahead of time. Thanks for the tip on the adhesion promoter.
Last edited by Fredbird; Feb 23, 2013 at 08:55 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,383
Likes: 2,736
I am in an auto refinishing class. I have all the professional tools. I already refinished the rest of the car, my truck, and countless others. I've done other wheels, but not aluminium. Just doing some research ahead of time. Thanks for the tip on the adhesion promoter.
The correct materials aren't "inexpensive"!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: Trophy Club Texas
I went to my normal auto paint/supplies shop who also had a shop. They gave me the Matrix brand clear that they use on all of their wheel refinishing projects. They didn't mention the promoter, but from what I read on sem's website, it's good to use but not an absolute must. But since it should help prevent peeling etc... I'll use it.
Last edited by Fredbird; Feb 23, 2013 at 09:36 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Woodstock Georgia
I refinished two sets using the aircraft paint stripper, then followed up with some light polishing. Average about an hour per wheel total. Main thing to watch is the aircraft stripper also destroys rubber. So remove the tires and valve stems first.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 208
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From: Trophy Club Texas
I expect my bill will total 75 - 100
30 - quart of clear/hardener (student price)
20 - adhesion promoter
10 - cleaning supplies
15 - compound sanding/buffing supplies
25 - whatever else.
But that's a far cry from 100+ per wheel other shops want to charge. I might as well buy new wheels than do that.
30 - quart of clear/hardener (student price)
20 - adhesion promoter
10 - cleaning supplies
15 - compound sanding/buffing supplies
25 - whatever else.
But that's a far cry from 100+ per wheel other shops want to charge. I might as well buy new wheels than do that.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 208
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From: Trophy Club Texas
Yep, no tires, but I will remove the valve stems before I start. Need them off before I paint anyway.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: Trophy Club Texas
Just finished buffing out one of the stripped wheels. (Picture will be posted later today) it looks incredible. Almost a shame to re-clear them. Debating on leaving them bare. They will shine more that way.