headlight relay connectors
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Port St Lucie FL
headlight relay connectors
87 vert.
Does anyone know where i can buy the connectors that plug into the headlight relays?
Mine have corrosion in them, and no matter how much i clean them, i just cant get a good connection for more than a month or 2. I'd love to just replace them with new ones.
or, if someone has a suggestion on how to REALLY clean them.
Does anyone know where i can buy the connectors that plug into the headlight relays?
Mine have corrosion in them, and no matter how much i clean them, i just cant get a good connection for more than a month or 2. I'd love to just replace them with new ones.
or, if someone has a suggestion on how to REALLY clean them.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Check out these:
Electrical Connectors:
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...ngineType.aspx
great site, recommended by flordiamale (corvette forum)
http://www.haywireinc.com/index.cfm/...cat/cat11.htm/
another great site, recommended by vinnies87 (corvette forum)
Electrical Connectors:
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...ngineType.aspx
great site, recommended by flordiamale (corvette forum)
http://www.haywireinc.com/index.cfm/...cat/cat11.htm/
another great site, recommended by vinnies87 (corvette forum)
Last edited by John A. Marker; Mar 8, 2013 at 09:38 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
From: Santa Rosa CA
I clean connectors by first using an aerosol can of fast drying electrical contact cleaner to flush them out thoroughly. If there is a question of any corrosion, it can usually removed with a pencil eraser cut to shape and then flush thoroughly again. Put a rag under the connector to contain the cleaner. A little dielectric grease around the seal should help to keep moisture/dirt out. I do not put dielectric grease on the metal connectors. This solves many electrical contact problems by itself.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,398
Likes: 2,743
Post a snapshot of the end view of the relay connector and the part number that is inked on or stamped in the relay and it's more easily sorted. There's two approaches, buy a pigtail then cut and splice OR just buy some terminals and if there's sufficient wire available just crimp/solder new terminals using your connector. The snapshot and part number information will make it less effort. Depending on the terminal type it could be possible to use a release tool to remove the terminal then clean and reinsert. I've done the later many times if it's just a cleaning issue.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Port St Lucie FL
well, these are the relays:
Here
the problem is cleaning the female connectors.
I cant seem to find the connectors anywhere, even though you can even buy these relays from autozone, you would think the connectors would be common.
Here
the problem is cleaning the female connectors.
I cant seem to find the connectors anywhere, even though you can even buy these relays from autozone, you would think the connectors would be common.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,398
Likes: 2,743
I wanted a good "macro" shot of the connector so I could ID the terminal. Those relays weren't real common, early Corvette, Fiero and I think on some Grand Am power antennas. I was going to give you the terminal option and if I had the snapshot maybe even a connector kit. Do you need all three? There would be two alike at for the actuators and an isolation relay?
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Michael S. Palmer
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
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From: Anaheim CA
Here are some connector sources that I use:
http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pi/wiring-connectors/
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/default.aspx
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Gen...show=45&page=1
http://terminalsupplyco.com/DelphiPackard.aspx
Mouser Electronics carries Delphi connectors:
http://www.mouser.com/
You can find the part numbers of the connectors in the back of the electrical section of the FSM. Then you can look up that part number online.
http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pi/wiring-connectors/
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/default.aspx
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Gen...show=45&page=1
http://terminalsupplyco.com/DelphiPackard.aspx
Mouser Electronics carries Delphi connectors:
http://www.mouser.com/
You can find the part numbers of the connectors in the back of the electrical section of the FSM. Then you can look up that part number online.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Port St Lucie FL
here are the pics
Isolation relay: This looks just like PT306, but backwards
Headlight relay (2 connectors) Notice they have a tab on opposite sides so they can only be plugged in one way. they are 2 different connectors.
Isolation relay: This looks just like PT306, but backwards
Headlight relay (2 connectors) Notice they have a tab on opposite sides so they can only be plugged in one way. they are 2 different connectors.
Last edited by delphipgmr; Mar 8, 2013 at 08:58 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,398
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The isolation relay connector is a GM 12117267 (PT440) and it's been discontinued for some time. The others are like I suspected (just like Fiero), two separate connectors in each relay. I'll post back later.
I don't see the need for connectors and there's a couple of ways to accomplish a fix, new terminals or with the proper release tool just separate them from the connector clean and reinsert. There's less likely hood of creating a worse issue if they're just released, cleaned, evaluated and if necessary replaced.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 8, 2013 at 09:21 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Port St Lucie FL
I want to replace all of the connectors (getting the relays is easy, everyone sells them)
there is an isolation relay, 1 connector. first pic
then there are 2 lamp relays, one for each headlight. each one takes 2 connectors (pics 2 and 3).
actually i did just buy an 87 FSM and EDM on amazon for $100.
there is an isolation relay, 1 connector. first pic
then there are 2 lamp relays, one for each headlight. each one takes 2 connectors (pics 2 and 3).
actually i did just buy an 87 FSM and EDM on amazon for $100.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Port St Lucie FL
how hard is it and what is needed to remove / clean / replace them?
Replacing the terminals seems like the best way to go.
the isolation relay isn't bad, its the other 2 which cause problems.
i've been cleaning them every few months when one if the headlights stops coming up
Replacing the terminals seems like the best way to go.
the isolation relay isn't bad, its the other 2 which cause problems.
i've been cleaning them every few months when one if the headlights stops coming up
Last edited by delphipgmr; Mar 8, 2013 at 09:48 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Port St Lucie FL
you're right, i just removed the clip, and it folds up revealing the pins which actually slide out pretty easy.
These things are filthy. looks like dielectric grease that is really black and cruddy in there, probably 27 year old grease.
is there a place to buy just the metal pins? it would be simpler to just pull the pins, cut, strip and replace them rather than try to clean them.
once the pins are out, i can easily clean the plastic housing
These things are filthy. looks like dielectric grease that is really black and cruddy in there, probably 27 year old grease.
is there a place to buy just the metal pins? it would be simpler to just pull the pins, cut, strip and replace them rather than try to clean them.
once the pins are out, i can easily clean the plastic housing
Last edited by delphipgmr; Mar 8, 2013 at 10:31 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,783
Likes: 15
From: Northern California
Just remove the terminals and clean the grease off with a toothbrush and Simple Green then, use #0000 Steel Wool or a Red 3M Scotch Brite pad to remove the corrosion.
They'll be nice and shiny and you'll be done with it forever.
They'll be nice and shiny and you'll be done with it forever.
Last edited by GKK; Mar 8, 2013 at 11:15 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,398
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you're right, i just removed the clip, and it folds up revealing the pins which actually slide out pretty easy.
These things are filthy. looks like dielectric grease that is really black and cruddy in there, probably 27 year old grease.
is there a place to buy just the metal pins? it would be simpler to just pull the pins, cut, strip and replace them rather than try to clean them.
once the pins are out, i can easily clean the plastic housing
These things are filthy. looks like dielectric grease that is really black and cruddy in there, probably 27 year old grease.
is there a place to buy just the metal pins? it would be simpler to just pull the pins, cut, strip and replace them rather than try to clean them.
once the pins are out, i can easily clean the plastic housing
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Port St Lucie FL
ok, so i just spent the last 2+ hours taking apart and cleaning connectors....What a pain in the a$$.
but i really think that 27 year old grease was causing alot of my problems. it was all over the inside of the connectors, very gritty, black, cruddy. jammed into the inside of the terminals and all. a real mess.
I took my time, using a #00 screwdriver, WD40 - which really took the grease off, and QD electronics cleaner - which took off the WD40 remnants and all the corrosion.
I used a little bit of dielectric grease, very sparingly.
the terminals and connectors look like new now.
Headlights also work now, so im hoping it lasts longer than a few months this time.
Thanks for everyone's help, it was a pain, but i think it will be ok now.
but i really think that 27 year old grease was causing alot of my problems. it was all over the inside of the connectors, very gritty, black, cruddy. jammed into the inside of the terminals and all. a real mess.
I took my time, using a #00 screwdriver, WD40 - which really took the grease off, and QD electronics cleaner - which took off the WD40 remnants and all the corrosion.
I used a little bit of dielectric grease, very sparingly.
the terminals and connectors look like new now.
Headlights also work now, so im hoping it lasts longer than a few months this time.
Thanks for everyone's help, it was a pain, but i think it will be ok now.