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i plan to start pulling the engine out of my 84 by the weekend. beforehand i would like to prep the car for the engine to come out.. i have never pulled an engine from a C4 and would like to know if anyone would be willing to share any tips or tricks on yanking an L83.
my plan was to remove the wiring harness from the engine first and lay it to the side of the engine bay. after that i will disconnect the y-pipe from the manifolds and while i'm under there, remove the flex plate shield and unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate. after that i will remove the radiator and fan assembly along with the hoses and transmission lines. following that i will check for any heater hoses on the engine and look for any other connections on the engine. then it would be off to the bellhousing bolts and the motor mounts.
is there anything i'm missing or should do differently?? any tips or tricks you guys use or recommend?
Remove the distributor. If you are worried remove the wiper motor cover. Very careful with grounds, couple hidden on the driver side. Assume you will pull from the side with the hood in place. Support the tansmission. Unless you have a very,very excellent memory take a lot of pictures before you start, lots of little odds that will need to go back into the correct location. Last, careful with the two oil sensors beside the distributor.
If you pull the engine to the side and not out the front, the hood can stay.
As noted above, take pictures. Label every wire and hose you remove without exception. If you are going to dis-assemble the engine once out of the car, then label each nut and bolt removed an place in small plastic bags. Failure to label things means you will be back here hat in hand asking what this wire or that bolt or bracket goes to or "what do I do with these extra parts?"
Good luck on your project. I will tell you that the bolts from my automatic trans to the block were a PITA to get to and remove on the top side of my 85.
Remove the transmission. You don't have to, but it makes the job a lot easier and faster. Also remove the windshield wiper motor or unless you are very careful you will break it on engine removal or installation. Do these, and there is no reason to remove the hood or the radiator assembly.
Remove the transmission. Remove the distributor. Pop the electrical connectors. Drain the fluids. Pop the fluid lines (coolant, fuel, ps). Leave the engine fully dressed. Remove from the side. No need to pull the radiator, shroud, fan, etc.
Do a search on engine rebuilds and you'll find a ton of threads with lots of pics showing engines coming out and going in.
This is my LT4 and the L83 will be a little different but you get the point...
my plan was to leave the trans in the car. i don't have a lift at my house and i think it would make things more difficult. its always an option though. i have decided based on your guy's advice to leave the radiator and fan in the car. i was making good progress on getting the engine prepped and then the wife came out and said she had to pick her sister up and to wally world...which sticks me with the two younger kids until she returns. after that i'm going to go back out and keep plugging away. here's where i'm at thus far:
If the LT5 will come out w/ the hood on, you should have NO problems.
And, I agree w/ dropping the trans, far as easing the entire operation goes. However, I would highly recommend you get a pair of C-beam plates from Bill Boudreau (sp?) at ZFdoc.com. If nothing else, they will make pulling and installing the C-beam a snap; not to mention any stability advantages afforded by them.
Go to a good tool store and buy a 3' long 3/8" extension. You will need it for the top trans bolts. Pull the driveshaft and beam first so you can lower the tail shaft down for better access. Remember to remove the distributor cap first or it will go crunch against the firewall.
Go to a good tool store and buy a 3' long 3/8" extension. You will need it for the top trans bolts. Pull the driveshaft and beam first so you can lower the tail shaft down for better access. Remember to remove the distributor cap first or it will go crunch against the firewall.
and a set of cheap impact swivel sockets..... (long extension and swivel makes those top bolts much more accessable
Biggest tip I can give is leave as much of the engine intact as you can. Its amazing how much easier things are to disassemble when its sitting on the engine stand.
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; Mar 14, 2013 at 10:15 PM.