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My advice would be to spray it several times with something like PB Blaster, giving it an hour or two in between applications. When you try to remove it, do it very gently, with LIGHT taps of a light hammer. Reverse direction of your LIGHT taps every six or so taps. The key is to get ANY movement at all out of the bolt. If you can get it to move at all, repeat the above, possibly several times, until it comes out.
It can be done, but it takes a delicate touch and patience....
If you're concerned about damaging the head of the bolts use a "flank drive" six point socket or wrench. It puts pressure on the flats instead of the corners, so there is much less chance of rounding off the head:
almost got her off. Im having rouble with this band clamp. I have the nut free but the bolt is locked solid... even after PB... even after pushing up on the bolt with an extra jack. can I cut this off and replace with a new exhaust clamp? is it part of the pipe? I see a rivet on the outside of the band. is there a post on the inside that keeps everything aligned?
almost got her off. Im having rouble with this band clamp. I have the nut free but the bolt is locked solid... even after PB... even after pushing up on the bolt with an extra jack. can I cut this off and replace with a new exhaust clamp? is it part of the pipe? I see a rivet on the outside of the band. is there a post on the inside that keeps everything aligned?
That clamp is "fixed" on the factory exhaust. Judging from your post on transmission removal you're well beyond this clamp. You should NOT have needed to cut anything. If you had the nut loose and the clamp loosened the pipe is just a slip-fit to the convertor RH side!
My advice would be to spray it several times with something like PB Blaster, giving it an hour or two in between applications. When you try to remove it, do it very gently, with LIGHT taps of a light hammer. Reverse direction of your LIGHT taps every six or so taps. The key is to get ANY movement at all out of the bolt. If you can get it to move at all, repeat the above, possibly several times, until it comes out.
It can be done, but it takes a delicate touch and patience....
Anyone ever cut or remove badly rusted exhaust bolts at the head? Are the easy to replace? If I drill them out, will I need to re-tap threads?
When I was young I had a project truck with a older Hemi in it. I had to get the exhaust bolts off and they were rusted solid. I tried various penetrating oils without success. I did have a set of dies and a nut splittler. I used the die to clean up the exposed threads and was able to get the nut splitter onto the nuts. I was able to split them then carefully used a small cold chisel and small hammer and spread the split enough that they eventually came loose.
Sometimes using a torch and heating the nut works too.
One thing I've found working on old machinery is a 50-50 solution of ATF and Acetone. Use it just like PB Blaster etc but it seems to work into the threads better and I've gotten things loose using that where products like PB Blaster and Kroil failed.