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rusty exhaust studs

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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 06:48 PM
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Default rusty exhaust studs

Anyone ever cut or remove badly rusted exhaust bolts at the head? Are the easy to replace? If I drill them out, will I need to re-tap threads?
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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You're not a machinist, are you...

My advice would be to spray it several times with something like PB Blaster, giving it an hour or two in between applications. When you try to remove it, do it very gently, with LIGHT taps of a light hammer. Reverse direction of your LIGHT taps every six or so taps. The key is to get ANY movement at all out of the bolt. If you can get it to move at all, repeat the above, possibly several times, until it comes out.

It can be done, but it takes a delicate touch and patience....

Good luck,

Al
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 09:22 PM
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just took mine loose. good advice above this post.
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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 01:35 AM
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If you're concerned about damaging the head of the bolts use a "flank drive" six point socket or wrench. It puts pressure on the flats instead of the corners, so there is much less chance of rounding off the head:

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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 02:35 AM
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And remember that if you strip out the threads in the head, you're pulling the head off the engine to do the repair.
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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 02:26 PM
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almost got her off. Im having rouble with this band clamp. I have the nut free but the bolt is locked solid... even after PB... even after pushing up on the bolt with an extra jack. can I cut this off and replace with a new exhaust clamp? is it part of the pipe? I see a rivet on the outside of the band. is there a post on the inside that keeps everything aligned?

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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 11:45 PM
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Good advice by Cliff Harris...

Al
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 12:01 AM
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Nope. I'm wottied about twisting off the 20 yr old rusty bolts. 2 of the 3 twisted/broke off
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ercriss
Nope. I'm wottied about twisting off the 20 yr old rusty bolts. 2 of the 3 twisted/broke off
So...You're wottied about 2 of the 3...

Are you sure you're in the right forum?



Al
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ercriss
almost got her off. Im having rouble with this band clamp. I have the nut free but the bolt is locked solid... even after PB... even after pushing up on the bolt with an extra jack. can I cut this off and replace with a new exhaust clamp? is it part of the pipe? I see a rivet on the outside of the band. is there a post on the inside that keeps everything aligned?
That clamp is "fixed" on the factory exhaust. Judging from your post on transmission removal you're well beyond this clamp. You should NOT have needed to cut anything. If you had the nut loose and the clamp loosened the pipe is just a slip-fit to the convertor RH side!
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by greest_lightnin
You're not a machinist, are you...

My advice would be to spray it several times with something like PB Blaster, giving it an hour or two in between applications. When you try to remove it, do it very gently, with LIGHT taps of a light hammer. Reverse direction of your LIGHT taps every six or so taps. The key is to get ANY movement at all out of the bolt. If you can get it to move at all, repeat the above, possibly several times, until it comes out.

It can be done, but it takes a delicate touch and patience....

Good luck,

Al
Reply
Old Sep 4, 2013 | 10:16 AM
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Default Rusted head bolts

Originally Posted by ercriss
Anyone ever cut or remove badly rusted exhaust bolts at the head? Are the easy to replace? If I drill them out, will I need to re-tap threads?
When I was young I had a project truck with a older Hemi in it. I had to get the exhaust bolts off and they were rusted solid. I tried various penetrating oils without success. I did have a set of dies and a nut splittler. I used the die to clean up the exposed threads and was able to get the nut splitter onto the nuts. I was able to split them then carefully used a small cold chisel and small hammer and spread the split enough that they eventually came loose.
Sometimes using a torch and heating the nut works too.
One thing I've found working on old machinery is a 50-50 solution of ATF and Acetone. Use it just like PB Blaster etc but it seems to work into the threads better and I've gotten things loose using that where products like PB Blaster and Kroil failed.

Hope that helps.
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