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I just ordered the VATS bypass module from Ecklers, my question is, since the problem is intermittent right now and I know that intermittent problems eventually become a permanent problem, when I install the bypass module if the VATS is working properly will it try to read both the key and the module and still not work? Should I get a new key made without the resistor save the time now or does the resistor not matter after the module is installed?
It works by unplugging the wires that go to your key lock cylinder and attaching the bypass to the plug that goes to the VATS. It is permanently defeated and any key cut for the ignition lock cylinder will work regardless of the pellet resistance. Follow the instructions and you will figure out how it works, it will be a no-brainer.
There are two VATS bypass products. One is the VATS delete chip that installs in you ECM under the hood. That one is for fuel. The one I believe you are talking about is the VATS key bypass. It plugs into the small wire connector at the column. With that wire connector disconnected then plugged into the VATS bypass module, it would not matter if your key has a VATS pellet in it or not. Just continue to use the key you have now.
A VATS bypass module is just a way of bypassing the read at the key switch. The circuit is re-routed around the key switch with a resistor value that allows the CCM to send power to the injectors. Should you ever get a no crank condition it is still possible that there's a fault in the starter enable relay circuit. You can also have someone program out VATS which is the same as the module. The relay can still be a fault with this method also.
It is also very easy to bypass the starter enable relay by popping off the cap and soldering a jumper wire across then snap the cap back on and plug it back in.
The problem is the key cylinder needs to be replaced. I had the By-Pass installed and worked for years, and then it happened, no start. It seems there was problem and since it's not safety recall, you'll pay for replacement.
There are two VATS bypass methods. The simple one bypasses the key and the other simulates a VATS module signal (30Hz square wave) to the ECM. With the second one you need to bypass the VATS starter relay.
There are two VATS bypass methods. The simple one bypasses the key and the other simulates a VATS module signal (30Hz square wave) to the ECM. With the second one you need to bypass the VATS starter relay.
If the resistance check is eliminated in the programming, and never called for the CCM has grounded the starter enable relay, and the system functions normally. However, it is still possible for a fault to occur in CCM, and or the starter enable relay. Replace the term CCM with VATS module for 1989 and older.
91Sooner, the VATS override that you bought plugs into the connector midway down your column. It gives the CCM the resistance value that your key would. It totally bypasses the key pellet in the ignition. There is no need to replace the key or key lock cylinder. This should solve your problem if the problem was poor contact between your key pellet and lock cylinder. It removes the key pellet from the VATS system, however, the rest of the VATS system is still in operation.
Did the starter solenoid engage or did you get nothing? I seem to have a failure somewhere in my system. Key on and you can hear fuel pump come on and every other electronic device functions. Went through both ignition keys with no change.
Did the starter solenoid engage or did you get nothing? I seem to have a failure somewhere in my system. Key on and you can hear fuel pump come on and every other electronic device functions. Went through both ignition keys with no change.
Replace the starter enable relay, and or ground the yellow wire to bypass this fault.
Thanks. I'll order the part and see what happens. Basically, the relay is at fault and not the VATS if I get you.
Honestly, my thought was not a key authorization issue, because you've tried both keys. Usually one key is worn more than the other. So this means the fault is either the ccm that gives said authorization, or the relay. Try new relay, and if that's not it, ground yellow wire and it should crank over.
You'll get more opinions by morning I'm sure.
It's most likely the lock cylinder, which you need to replace. Otherwise your car is easily stolen.
That reminds me of an incident that occurred several years ago. I was with a friend of mine who has a '65 Corvette convertible. We were going somewhere and he offered to give me a ride. We get in the car (the top was down) and he turns the ignition lock (NO KEY!) with his hand and starts the car. I'm freaked out by this and told him so. He says, "THEY don't know it doesn't need a key".
If the bad guys think your car is protected they won't even try to take it. That said, all the security systems in the world won't stop a tow truck...
Reminds me of when I parked in a red zone in my girlfriend's apartment complex. When we came out the alarm was sounding as the tow truck took it away (not a Corvette). One weird thing was the car was unlocked and the radio was on a different station when I picked it up. Makes me wonder what else they messed with.